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To Steve Adelsman, chocolate is the culinary equivalent of a demanding prima donna. “Chocolate is temperamental,” he says. “It’s one of the most difficult items to work with.”

Bring out the best and–just like that coddled soprano–the results can be enchanting. That’s the reward for Adelsman, who with wife Marti, a psychologist, operates Happy Chocolate Co. at 22 Chicago Ave. in Oak Park (708-383-0835).

Truffles are the specialty, and these gourmet confections–handmade, without preservatives–are produced by the hundreds every week. Coffee is served, as are brownies, but make no mistake: Truffles get star billing.

The traditional line ($24 per pound, which equals about 30 truffles) includes classic, mint and raspberry; the gourmet line ($36 per pound) includes amaretto, macadamia and Grand Marnier. They’re sold singly for $1 and $1.50, respectively.

It’s a long way from Adelsman’s previous job as a futures trader, but that’s how the cacao seed was planted, so to speak, a decade ago, when a co-worker brought in truffles she had made at home.

“I had one of these chocolates–I didn’t even know what truffles were–and it was incredible,” he said. He began making his own, giving them as gifts. As demand grew, so did his dream of owning a shop. Last year, Happy Chocolate Co. was born.

The process is labor-intensive. A single batch takes 14 hours. Demand varies, depending on the season. “Let me put it this way,” Marti Adelsman says. “We get very little sleep during the holidays.’