While paneling has become somewhat passe in the 1990s, it’s still a viable wall covering, especially in basement rec rooms and family rooms that take a lot of abuse from children.
Its major advantage is that paneling can last years longer than wallpaper or paint. In addition to being a durable wall covering, paneling adds a completely different look to a room. Paneling can also mask blemished plaster walls or drywall.
And, it is also fairly easy to install.
The first step is to plan out the job on paper to ensure you have enough materials. Since most paneling comes in 4- by 8-foot sheets, space them out appropriately. There is also hardwood paneling that is installed in strips as well as tongue-in-groove boards that interlock to each other like wood flooring.
Paneling can be placed directly over a plaster wall or drywall, especially if the surface is in good shape. If the wall is in poor condition, or if it is a concrete wall in a basement, it is recommended to attach furring strips to the wall and attach the panels to those.
Long horizontal furring strips should be nailed to the wall 16 inches on center. Secure them to the studs below. Shorter vertical furring strips should be placed at 48 inches on center and also secured to the studs. There should also be vertical furring strips on both insides of each corner.
The furring strips in a sense are a skeletal frame for the panels. So if the panels are wider or narrower than standard panels, adjust the furring strips to match.
Use a level to make sure the furring strips are straight. And use shims behind them to make sure the strips are flat and level, avoiding any swells in the paneling once installed.
After purchasing the panels, stack them flat on the floor of the room where they will be installed. Separate the sheets of panels with small wood blocks or books to allow air to circulate around them for a couple of days. This will condition the panels to the humidity in the room.
Real wood panels–versus hardwood or prefab panels–should then be actually placed up against the wall. “Each piece of real wood is unique in character as far as the grain patterns and shading,” says John Whelan, the manager of the Hines Lumber yard in Homewood. “As a result, a certain piece might look better in a certain section of the room.”
Cutting the pieces
The next step is to measure the first panel for cutting. First, size the height of the room. Apply that measurement to the panel, minus a half-inch or so. That gap will be covered by molding. (If the walls are taller than 8 feet, you’ll need 12-foot-high panels to cover that gap.)
Measure both ends of where the top of the panel will be placed. If the room isn’t square, you’ll need to cut the top of the panel on a slight angle to conform to the wall.
A little planning must also be taken with cutting the paneling, says Whelan. For example, if you’re cutting the wood with a circular saw or saber saw, cut with the paneling face down.
Circular saws and saber saws are best for long cuts in the paneling, with the use of a straight edge.
If you’re using a hand saw, which cuts on the down stroke, cut the panels face up. A hand saw is best for short cuts or for cutting openings for electrical outlets or switches.
The best way to mark the location of an opening on a panel is to coat the perimeter of the projectile with a washable marker. Then, before the ink dries, line the panel up in its proper place and press it over the fixture or projectile.
The ink will make an impression on the back of the panel, offering a guideline on where to cut.
You can also use chalk to leave an impression on the back of the panel.
Then, drill starter holes in the corners of the impression and cut the rest of the impression out with a hand saw.
For irregular edges that will come up against the paneling, such as a fireplace or a window, use a compass to make a precise cut.
Cut the panel a half-inch wider than the wall space it will cover. Then, open a compass to a half-inch. Place the panel to the wall next to the irregular space so that the edge is flush against the irregular space. Have someone hold it in place. Then use the point of the compass to scribe the contour of the irregular edge onto the panel. The pencil side of the compass will outline the cuts you need to make.
Installation
After cutting the panel, put it in place and prop it up with scrap wood. Using a level, make sure it’s perfectly plumb. Otherwise, the subsequent panels will not line up. When the panel lines up, remove it.
Panels can be adhered to the wall by nails or adhesive. “Most people prefer glue,” says Whelan. “Nails are likely to pop and you can sometimes see them in the panel, so the fewer nails the better.”
If you choose to use glue, apply the adhesive to the furring strips as well as the back of the panels. Some adhesives require a few minutes to cure.
Push the panel in place so the glue is spread along the back of the panels and furring strips. Then, pull the panel back off the furring strips. If the adhesive manufacturer recommends it, allow the glue to continue to dry.
Next, push the panel back in place again, securing it with nails at the very top and bottom.
Drive the head of the nails slightly below the surface with a nail set. “The heads of these nails will be covered with molding later on,” says Whelan.
You may want to coat the vertical furring strips with a paint that is the same color as the grooves in the panels. This paint will help hide gaps when the panels contract and pull away from each other because of a lack of humidity.
Then, move on to the next panel. Don’t jam the panels next to each other. Instead, leave a very slight gap between the two panels, most of which are constructed so that the edges link together.
“Hardboard panels need to expand and contract,” says Whelan, “especially in basements where there can be a range of humidity.”
When filling out the wall with panels, also be cognizant of how corner pieces will match up if there is a pattern in the panel. “Also, if you carefully cut the pieces, you can have one piece of paneling butt into another on inside corners so you don’t need to install inside molding,” says Whelan.
Outside corners, meanwhile, should be glued together to ensure a bond.
If you prefer to nail the panel to the wall, you’ll need to locate the studs below, and try to place the vertical edges of the panel over those studs. If possible, drive the nails through the grooves of the panel so they will be less obvious. Make sure they anchor into the furring strips, or better still, into the wall studs.
Wainscoting
Wood paneling that only covers the lower section of a wall is known as wainscoting. It is attached in sheets, like paneling, and can be applied directly to the wall or to furring strips. As with paneling, it can be glued to the wall or nailed.
Wainscoting can also be cut to a specific height, and is usually capped with some sort of molding.
