It’s just a boat. But, oh, what a boat it is.
The Mississippi Queen is back on the rivers of America, more Victorian and elegant than ever. It is part of the family of the Delta Queen Steamboat Co., which includes the country’s only floating National Historic Landmark, the Delta Queen, and the super-elegant and brand-new American Queen.
Like its sisters, the Mississippi Queen is a boat, not a ship or cruiser or vessel. That’s what they call these paddlewheelers along the Mississippi, Ohio, Tennessee and Missouri Rivers. But the Mississippi Queen is also a grand vacation experience.
Traveling America’s rivers by steamboat was–and still is–the grandest way to travel in America. And to do this you’ll want to travel on one of the only three authentic and genuine overnight riverboats in the country–perhaps, even the world.
Steamboating changed the way America traveled in the early 1800s. And until the railroad came along with a faster but not as elegant service, steamboating was the only way to go.
The problem comes in deciding on which boat to travel. Your choice comes to the Delta Queen, the original, and the truest of the steamboats, dating to the 1920s; the now 20-year-old Mississippi Queen; or the brand new, and world’s largest steamboat, the American Queen. The choice would seem to be easy, a flip of the coin between the “real” Delta Queen and the genuine reproduction filled with modern amenities, American Queen.
The Delta Queen survives by an act of Congress and the outpouring of thousands of supporters. Its problem, if it really is one, is that it is all wood, except for its steel hull, and must continually be recertified, since it does not meet safety-at-sea laws because of the wood construction. And, because it is a genuine piece of the past, its staterooms are small, but comfortable; and it lacks amenities such as elevators and telephones–it does have air conditioning. It is small but charming.
And, therein was the Mississippi Queen’s problem. It was built when there were fears the Delta Queen would be forced off the river, so the Mississippi Queen was designed to meet all the safety-at-sea laws, but to do so, they filled it with lots of shiny metal instead of warm woods.
But now all that has changed. The Mississippi Queen has just finished undergoing a five-year, multimillion-dollar facelift that more reflects the feeling of Victoriana and Steamboat Gothic design of the period. The final touches required taking it off the rivers for a few months, but it is now back and grander than ever.
The American Queen is larger, has all the modern amenities–from larger staterooms with more modern bathrooms, to swimming pool and telephones in cabins. There are lots of cozy corners to relax in, grand lounges and a showroom the likes of which has never been seen on any river before. It is authentic as can be–filled with Victorian furnishing with lots of woodwork. The boat, which debuted last fall, is the result of the lessons of modern technology, using woods and other materials that evoke the past, yet meet strict safety laws.
So we board the new/old Mississippi Queen in New Orleans and are delighted by the welcoming sounds of the grand calliope, the world’s largest steam-powered piano, with 44 brass pipes. Steam is the key to a Delta Queen cruise; all the boats are powered by genuine steam engines, and unlike oceangoing cruise ships, on these paddlewheelers visitors are more than welcome to take a peek in the engine room.
The Mississippi Queen has indeed been changed. The Victorian feel is everywhere, from 19th Century crown moldings to hand-blocked Victorian wallpapers. My stateroom, named for a Civil War battle, is quite comfortable, with twin beds (that can be made into one), an antique dresser, a bath with shower and a veranda to sit on and take in the sights of the Mississippi.
What distinguishes the Mississippi Queen from its sister boats is that it is large yet intimate. It offers a theater, large lounge that also serves as a showroom, dining room, and the wonderful Paddlewheel Lounge that overlooks the giant red paddlewheel of the boat. It doesn’t have the extra room of the American Queen, and many prefer this smaller boat, as it allows one to more easily meet fellow passengers, even though the American Queen carries only a few more passengers (436) than the Mississippi Queen (414). (The Delta Queen carries only 174.)
Now with its more authentic Victorian image, the Mississippi Queen makes it all the harder to choose between the three Delta Queen boats.
From the moment you board the Mississippi Queen, you know you’re in for a new experience. Or, should we say old experience? We cross the stage (the platform that extends from the boat to the shore) and become entranced with the ornate gingerbread detail of the boat. High above us we view the pilothouse, and extending above that are a pair of twin fluted stacks (that even lower to go under bridges). We are indeed taking a step back in time. The welcome is friendly and genuine American. The crew hails from throughout the land.
The food is good, a combination of American and, you guessed it, riverboat favorites.
On board we are entertained with a lively musical Stage Door Canteen, featuring songs and dances from a ’40s USO tour. Gambling is not found on any of these riverboats–slots, after all, had not been invented in the hey-day of riverboating–and it is a blessing to cruise without the clanging of bells from an onboard casino. We do, however, have an entertaining visit by Bodine Jackson Balasco, billed as “the last of the riverboat gamblers,” whose tricks with the cards makes one feel glad he’s not on the other side of the poker table.
Later in the evening, the action switches to the Paddlewheel Lounge for some great jazz, blues and ragtime. The action begins at 9:30 p.m., as these cruises attract a decidedly older crowd who tend not to be night owls, but retire and rise early.
Throughout the cruise, there is always the riverlorian, who presents talks on river life, and is always available on deck or in the chart room to point out the sights to be seen.
What makes a river cruise all the more special are the “ports of call,” the towns or other stops along the way. The most memorable stop on this journey along the Mississippi comes when the Queen simply pulls alongside a levee and drops the stage alongside the levee. We walked off the boat, up the levee and then, appearing in front of us was Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie, La.
Oak Alley is a grand Greek Revival-style mansion, set well back from the river. It was spared during the Civil War, and while quite impressive both inside and out, what makes it stand apart from other southern mansion is the stand of 28 evenly spaced and majestic live oak trees, planted in the early 1700s by an unknown French settler. To reach the mansion we followed a quarter-mile long path between the trees. It’s a sight to remember on a cruise to remember.
DETAILS ON THE MISSISSIPPI QUEEN
Three-night trips on the Mississippi Queen begin at $163 per night, per person, double occupancy.
Various themed cruises include Big Band, Dixie Fest, Fall Foliage and Music of the River. Ports of embarkation and disembarkation include New Orleans, Memphis, Cincinnati and Nashville.
For more information, contact a travel agent or Delta Queen Steamboat Co., 800-543-1949.
