Summer is just around the corner. Really. While most of us are more than ready, your car may not be. The higher the mercury rises, the harder your car has to work to keep its cool, and if you let it roll into hot weather low on fluids and with worn parts, it can malfunction and leave you stranded.
The American Automobile Association last year inspected 4,400 cars nationally to determine whether motorists had prepared their vehicles for summer driving.
“From the results of AAA’s inspections, it is clear that many vehicles are not ready for the challenge of summer driving,” said George Giek, managing director of Automotive Services for the AAA in Heathrow, Fla.
Using advice from AAA and several auto books and experts, we’re going to help you check the car from the front bumper to the rear.
So dig out the owner’s manual and slip on some grungy jeans and an old T-shirt. Welcome to Spring Car Care 101.
Under the hood
Mort Shultz, author of “Keep Your Car Running Practically Forever,” says the temperature in an engine averages about 275 degrees once it is warmed up. All sorts of things can go wrong in that environment.
Here are a few things to check:
– Motor oil. This is your engine’s blood. Oil does more than just lubricate the parts as it circulates through the engine; it also helps keep the motor running cool. That is why it’s important to make sure the oil doesn’t run low and to change it, along with the filter, frequently.
Most automakers recommend that the oil and filter be changed every 3,000 miles in areas where there is high heat and heavy traffic. If your oil is in good condition, check it once a week, especially in summer when cooling is important.
Make sure the engine is cool and the car is parked on level ground before you pull out the dipstick. If the oil level is below the full mark, top it off with the proper grade of oil, noted in the owner’s manual.
Use a high-detergent oil. Detergent additives keep sludge from building up. Sludge slows oil circulation, which makes the engine run hotter with less oil lubricating the parts.
– Radiator coolant. Your car has a clear plastic coolant tank on the side of the engine bay. With the engine cool or warm, open the container’s lid and see whether the coolant is clean and green. If it is brown and murky, the radiator needs to be flushed and the coolant replaced. This is a job for a professional with the right tools and equipment.
If the coolant is green, look on the side of the tank and make sure it is filled to the proper level. If not, add the proper amount and mix of coolant and water usually 50-50. Again, check your owner’s manual.
– Air filter. If you use your car every day, the air filter should be replaced twice a year. The paper filter keeps the dirt out of your car’s fuel system. If the filter gets clogged, your engine will strain to get the proper amount of air, and fuel economy and performance will drop.
An air filter usually costs about $10 or less and can be bought at any auto dealership or auto parts store. Usually in a plastic box connected to the top of the engine, the air filter is easy to replace. Look in your owner’s manual for specifics.
– Radiator hoses. There is one hose on the top of the radiator and one on the bottom. These hoses are under a lot of stress in the summer as they carry the superhot coolant from the engine to the radiator.
If the hoses are cracked or soft, they should be replaced. Also, check the clamps to make sure they are tight and no coolant is leaking from the area where the hose connects to the engine and the radiator.
– Battery. If your battery requires maintenance, open the caps on top and make sure it is filled to the proper level. If not, fill it with distilled water.
Batteries that do not require water usually have an indicator on top, such as a small, round window. Instructions on the battery will tell you how to interpret the color of the fluid inside. Yellow usually means trouble.
AAA spokesman Mike Morrisey attributes 18 percent of all AAA service calls in summer to faulty batteries.
– Automatic transmission. Most automakers recommend that the car be warmed up and idling in park when you check the transmission fluid. However, check the owner’s manual for the proper procedure.
The fluid should be pink or bright red. If the fluid is brown or black and smells burned, take the car to a transmission repair shop or a garage as soon as possible and have the fluid and filter changed. Burned fluid means the transmission has overheated.
If the fluid is low, top it off with the type mentioned in your owner’s manual. You’ll probably need a funnel.
– Power steering. The power steering system on many older cars uses the same fluid as the automatic transmission. But many newer cars take a special type of fluid. The owner’s manual will spell out what type is needed. You can buy a small container of power-steering fluid at any auto parts store. Check the fluid with the dipstick.
– Brakes. If your brake system is healthy, you probably won’t need to add fluid. But if your brakes are a bit worn, the fluid level probably has dropped below the “full” line. If so, take off the master cylinder cover and top off the fluid in both compartments. Make sure you use only the grade of brake fluid specified in your owner’s manual.
Electrical system
Aside from replacing burned-out fuses and light bulbs, you won’t have much to do here.
– Lights. Turn on the parking lights and walk around the car. Make sure the taillights, side-marker lights and turn signals below the headlights are working. Turn on the left and right turn signals and make sure all four are working. Then turn on headlights. Check the high and low beams.
Have someone step on the brake pedal and make sure all three brake lights are working. If you spot any burned-out lights, follow the instructions in the owner’s manual and remove them. Take the old light bulbs to an auto parts store. Most have charts that tell you what light to buy.
– Fuse box. The owner’s manual will tell you where the fuse block is. Usually it’s under the dash. Check all the fuses. The wire inside is separated in a burned-out fuse. The block often contains spare fuses.
Tires and exhaust system
The average motorist can only inspect these two items. Any repair or installation should be done by a repair shop.
– Tires. Inspect the tread. If it is worn unevenly across the width of the tires, your car’s front suspension system needs to be checked. It may just need an alignment, but it could have worn parts, such as ball joints and tie-rod ends.
If the tires are wearing evenly, use a tire pressure gauge to check the air. Usually there is a sticker in the glovebox or on the driver’s door post that tells how much air to put in the tires. The correct amount will improve safety and fuel economy.
– Exhaust system. This is fairly straightforward: It either leaks or it doesn’t. If you hear a ticking when the engine is under stress, there may be an exhaust leak. If the tailpipe is rotted, you probably can buy a new pipe from an auto parts store and slip it over what’s left of the old one. Make sure the new tailpipe sticks out from underneath the bumper to keep exhaust out from under the car.
Exterior and interior
A fresh coat of wax every few months will help protect the paint from the sun.
– The exterior. Wash the car with mild soap and a clean, soft rag. Rinse the rag frequently so the dirt it catches doesn’t scratch the paint. After the car is washed and dried, wax it.
While you are waxing the car, note of any areas where the paint is chipped. Moisture can get under the paint and cause rust to form. If you spot an area where the paint is chipped, dab on touchup paint. There’s no need to sand the area, said Tom Mosier of Exotic Auto Collision, a body shop in Orlando.
Many auto parts stores and dealerships carry touchup paint that matches your car’s finish.
Check the windshield wipers and make sure the blades are not cracked and dried. If they are, replace them. You can buy slip-in replacement blades at most auto parts stores for a few dollars.
Use wheel cleaner to remove the brown dust created by the brake pads. Finally, clean the outside of the glass with window cleaner and paper towels.
– The interior. Vacuum the carpet and upholstery and clean the inside of the glass.
Though it may not look dirty, the inside of the rear window often is coated by a thin film of dirt. Also, clean the plastic cover on the gauges, where dust tends to settle. Remove any stains with carpet or upholstery cleaner.
WHAT YOU’LL NEED FOR SPRING CLEANUP
An auto parts store will have all you need to get your car ready for summer. Here are 10 must-have items and approximate prices:
– Motor oil: $1.25 per quart
– Brake fluid: $3 per pint
– Power-steering fluid: $3 per pint
– Automatic-transmission fluid: $2 per quart
– Air filter: $8 to $20, depending on car
– Coolant: $8 per gallon
– Tire pressure gauge: $5
– Carpet and upholstery cleaner: $5
– Car wash/wax: $5 to $15 depending on brand
– Wheel cleaner: $5
TIME TO CHECK IN WITH A MECHANIC
Some things are better left to mechanics:
– Timing belt. Many imported cars with 4-cylinder, overhead-cam engines need to have their rubber timing belts changed between 50,000 and 60,000 miles. (Check the owners manual for specifics.) If it’s time to have the timing belt changed, have it done immediately.
If that belt snaps, it could cause major engine damage.
– Fuel filter. Most automakers recommend changing the filter every 50,000 miles.
It takes special tools and skills to replace the filter in the system that’s under pressure.
– Fan belts. Most cars built in the last few years have one long ribbed belt. Called a serpentine belt, it drives all the pumps and things connected to the motor. It likely will be hard to inspect because it is so long.
Mort Schultz, author of “Keep Your Car Running Practically Forever,” says belts should be replaced every four years, regardless of whether they show wear. One sign of a loose or worn belt is a loud squealing noise when the motor is revved.
It’s easier to check older cars with regular V-type fan belts. If it’s frayed or has tiny cracks around the edges, replace it.
