A plate of grilled sausage, pasta tossed with a handful of freshly picked herbs, lush berries and the unfettered enjoyment of messy barbecue and lobster whet summer appetites in the pages of some new cookbooks.
In the best of these books, there is an emphasis on simplicity and vibrant flavors that is perfect for summer.
– “Grill Italian,” by Clifford A. Wright (Macmillan, $25), hooks the cook in the introduction. Who would not want to light the grill after reading the author’s description of an alfresco dinner in Sicily? The recipes are generally on the simple side, relying on fresh ingredients and herbs for flavor rather than on heavy marinades and bastings. I loved the frequent trick of alternating items on skewers with cubes of oil-soaked bread or that of sprinkling on bread crumbs to add texture. Sausages, onions and oranges skewered together offer a delightful change of pace.
– “The Outdoor Chef’s Bible,” by John Weiss (Doubleday, $12 paperback), addresses the camper and backpacker first, then the back-yard cook. But all receive sound, detailed advice on the pros and cons of various types of equipment. For those who are planning a camping trip, there are suggestions for food purchases and storage, a list of 18 kinds of wood and their relative advantages for cooking, and recipes.
– “Adventures in Grilling,” by George Hirsch (Hearst Books, $20), which touts the outdoor grill for almost anything but icing a cake, is a collection of often-contrived recipes–lentils with grilled pineapple, for example–that is organized along regional themes.
– “Markets of Provence,” by Dixon Long and Ruthanne Long (Collins Publishers, $19.95), is another vicarious pleasure that begs to be experienced firsthand. The authors, both of whom have lived in Provence, take the reader to colorful, mouthwatering markets, mostly in small towns but also in Aix-en-Provence and St. Remy.
In a book with vibrant color photographs, they set the stage by describing the surroundings, pointing out sights, suggesting nearby restaurants, flea markets and shops. Guides to olives and breads are useful, as are glossaries of food terms and handy market expressions in French. A small selection of truly fine recipes, including such delights as Cavaillon melons filled with sweet wine, rounds out this gem.
– “The Flavors of Sicily,” by Anna Tasca Lanza (Clarkson N. Potter, $30), is divided into chapters month by month, beginning with the strengthening sunshine of March and ending in September’s harvest glow. It presents vignettes of Sicilian life and food traditions in the warm season, accompanied by recipes that demand fresh ingredients and allow for the cook’s personal taste in seasoning. The recipes by Marchesa Lanza, a well-known expert on Sicilian cooking, include baked fennel, rice with eggplant, warm spaghetti tossed with oil, herbs and capers, and a rich gelatin made of the juice of blood oranges. They provide a lesson in commendably frugal, uncomplicated, honest cooking that is becoming all too rare.
– Deep into “The Little Book of Big Sandwiches,” by Michael McLaughlin (Chronicle Books, $14.95), the author recognizes the improvisational nature of the sandwich and has included a list of quickie suggestions. There are recipes for classic sandwiches like pan bagnat, plus some sandwich history. And for those who make their sandwiches from scratch, there is a good recipe for loin of pork. A few more recipes for making bread would have been welcome.
– Bharti Kirchner has written “Vegetarian Burgers: The Healthy, Delicious Way to Eat America’s Favorite Food” (HarperPerennial, $12.50). It’s a nice option for vegetarians who want to join in the outdoor fun. Keep in mind, though, that these burgers take some additional shopping and aren’t as easy to slap together as a pound of chuck and some chopped onions. For vegetarians who already stock their pantries with the likes of tamarind, tahini, tofu and mirin, the recipes pose no real difficulties other than the steps it takes to measure several ingredients and bind the vegetables (usually with bread crumbs).
RICE SALAD WITH FRESH TUNA
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 servings
Marinating time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “The Flavors of Sicily.”
1 cup long-grain rice
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves
1 cup flaked cooked fresh tuna
1/4 cup dry white wine
Salt, pepper to taste
1. Cook rice in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain well. Transfer to a serving bowl; and add enough olive oil to keep it from sticking.
2. Stir in red onion, garlic and mint. Fold in cooked tuna. Add white wine and additional oil to taste. Season to taste with salt and pepper; allow to marinate one hour.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories……….380 Fat…………..15 g Cholesterol………20 mg
Sodium……….25 mg Carbohydrates….40 g Protein…………..15 g
