Vinyl sheet flooring, having shaken loose of the old stereotype of linoleum, has made a comeback in kitchens and bathrooms in recent years.
What has gotten homeowners to take a second look at sheet flooring is its durability, its cost, compared to wood and quarry tile floors, and its diversity of patterns and colors, says Scott Ennis with the Chicago-based Century Tile.
“Another advantage is sheet flooring doesn’t have the grout lines that tiles have,” says Ennis. “Those lines between the tiles are what customers complain get dirty and start to ruin the look of their new floor.”
One disadvantage of sheet flooring, however, is a more complicated installation process. Because it comes in 6-foot and 12-foot widths, sheet flooring is installed over a floor in one or maybe two sheets.
This means precision is needed when cutting the floor. Otherwise, you will end up with a short end or a pattern that’s not straight. “You can patch sheet flooring, but that adds additional seams to the floor, which doesn’t look as good as a single sheet,” says Ennis. “Those seams can also later cause problems such as bumps and ridges.”
As a result, a rectangular room makes for the easiest installation of vinyl sheet flooring. Kitchens with cabinet islands and peninsulas will obviously make the job more complicated, as will octagonal-shaped rooms or rooms with lots of doorways.
“Laying sheet flooring takes more concentration and more work than vinyl tiles,” says Ennis. “You should plan to spend at least a couple of days working at it.”
One way to make the job easier is to purchase a sheet flooring installation kit, which offers a large sheet of paper that serves as a template to accurately cut the sheet flooring, as well as cutting tools and marking pens. These kits sell for about $15 and are usually available at tile stores that sell sheet flooring.
It will also be helpful to rent a 100-pound roller from the tile store to ensure adhesion of the flooring to the sub-floor.
Once you’ve chosen a style of sheet flooring, the key to the job is the preparation of the existing floor, says Ennis.
First, remove any free-standing appliances such as refrigerators and stoves. Next, remove any quarter-round and wood molding from the baseboard by using a putty knife and pry bar. Try to remove the molding without breaking it, so you can replace it later over the new floor.
Vinyl trim can also be removed with a putty knife.
You can install sheet flooring over an existing vinyl or wood floor if it is level and in good shape. Secure any loose wood slats and then thoroughly clean the floor.
If the existing floor has imperfections, however, it needs to be removed. “Otherwise, the imperfections–bulges, bubbles, etc.–will just come through on the sheet flooring,” says Ennis.
This can be an extensive and very messy job, especially if the existing floor is tile and is glued down.
Instead, a better option is to install a new underlayment on the floor with sheets of quarter-inch plywood. “The plywood should be real smooth so that defects don’t show through the sheet flooring,” says Ennis.
Choose an exterior grade of plywood that will be resistant to water damage, especially in a kitchen and bathroom.
To minimize gaps, which can work their way through the sheet flooring, stagger the joints at the end of the plywood sheets. Adhere the plywood to the floor with nails every three to four inches.
Next, fill the joints between the plywood sheets with a latex patching compound. After the compound dries, thoroughly sand the joints so they’re smooth and then clean the floor.
The next step is to carefully map out the flooring installation. Using graph paper, draw a floor plan of the room. Note where cabinets and doors are, and make note of walls that are not square.
After you’ve drawn the floor plan, unfold the paper template provided with the installation kit. Lay it out on the floor and mark it using the pen provided.
Next, you’ll need to unroll the flooring to mark it for cutting. The best place to spread out the vinyl flooring is in a room larger than the room where you’re doing the installation.
At this point, double-check your measurements. “As the old saying goes, measure twice and cut once,” says Ennis.
Then, lay the paper template on top of the sheet flooring and line it up properly. If there is a pattern in the flooring, make sure it is running parallel to the squarest wall.
Use a water-soluble, felt-tipped pen and a straight-edged ruler to mark the exact cutting lines on the flooring. Then, mark rough cutting lines 1 1/2 inches from those.
Next, cut along the rough cut lines with a linoleum knife. Carry the cut piece into the room where it is to be installed and line it up.
If you are using more than one piece, place the first piece accurately along the seam line. At the other end of the sheeting, cut the inside and outside corners diagonally about an inch or so. This diagonal relief cut will allow the sheeting to rest up against the wall.
Then, press the flooring down into the corners. Verify that the seam is still in its proper place and have a helper stand on the flooring to make sure it remains in place.
Next, hold the flooring down with one hand and trim it down to the exact cut line–except on the seam side, if there is one. There should be a small gap of no more than 1/8-inch between the flooring and wall edge. This will allow for expansion.
Remember that this gap will be covered with the quarter-round or vinyl molding.
To place the sheeting around pipes, you’ll need to cut a straight line to the pipe. Then, cut a circular hole to accommodate the pipe.
If a second piece of sheeting is needed, unroll that and cut it to the rough cut lines. Then, lay it over the seam, positioning it so that the pattern matches.
Now you’re ready to adhere the sheet flooring to the underlayment. Each type of flooring comes with a recommended adhesive. Prepare or mix the adhesive as directed by the manufacturer.
Then, re-roll the sheet flooring and remove it from the room.
Using a large, ridged trowel, apply the adhesive to the floor, making sure to spread it smooth and thin. Any lumps or buildup will show through the flooring.
If there is to be a seam, keep the adhesive about a foot away from the seam line.
Then, unroll the first piece of sheet flooring back into place. Press down to adhere it to the glue.
If there is a second piece, unroll that so that the rough cut lines on the seam sides overlap. Press the flooring in place so that the second piece adheres to the glue.
Then, using a straight edge metal ruler, cut through both pieces of flooring at the seam. Next, pull back the seams about six inches and apply the seam adhesive to the underfloor with the trowel.
Press the seam ends back down and wipe away any excess adhesive that squeezes through the seam.
Next, press down the sheet flooring with the 100-pound roller.
Then, apply seam sealer to the seam. Leave a small bead of sealer–about 1/8-inch–over the seam.
Where it will be covered with the molding along the walls of the room, the ends of the sheeting can also be stapled to the floor to further adhere it.
Next, replace the wood or vinyl molding that was removed earlier. If pieces were damaged during the removal, you’ll need to replace them. Where the new sheet flooring meets the floors from other rooms, you’ll need to cover those seams with metal finish strips.
