Ann Sather’s is famous for cinnamon rolls and plain, honest cooking. That reputation survives intact at the Swedish restaurant’s teensy corner outpost on North Clark Street.
Eight two-place tables, overseen by a bright mural, cluster between the sink area and the grill/order counter. The cafe has commandeered some sidewalk space for roomier tables.
First, about the cinnamon rolls (90 cents apiece): They will taste familiar to habitues of the flagship Belmont Avenue restaurant, because all the cafe’s pastries are prepared at Belmont then baked at Clark Street. The dense but moist dough is judiciously laced with cinnamon and topped with not too much icing.
The rest of the menu mixes morning standards with sandwiches, burgers and seven entree salads. All breakfast dishes are made on site, but some entrees are prepared at Belmont and held hot at Clark Street.
An advantage for late risers or breakfast lovers is that the cafe serves its eggs-and-bacon side of the menu all day long (though the cafe recently began closing at 5 p.m.). The Swedish pancakes with lingonberries ($4.75) taste just fine in the late afternoon. The cakes are thin, sweet and tender, and the syrupy berry preserves tartly complementary. A side of hash browns topped with Cheddar ($1.50) turns out to be large, tender cubes of fried potatoes encased in Cheddar.
Designated dinner entrees, which include two side dishes, range from meatloaf ($6.75) to broiled salmon ($8.95). Tangy Swedish meatballs ($6.75), a logical choice, are great, consisting of finely ground meat formed by a light hand. The accompanying butter noodles and gravy are OK, as are the mashed potatoes. Mixed vegetables (zucchini, broccoli and cauliflower) are steamed ahead of time then slightly scorched just before serving.
Roast pork loin ($7.95) doesn’t measure up to the meatballs, having lost its juiciness somewhere along the line. Disappointing too is the celery-seed dressing, which softens to goo when attacked by the gravy. On the plus side, the tender boiled potatoes are delicious.
All servings are generous, and service is brisk and helpful. The cafe has to be one of the few places on North Clark where you can’t get a drink, but the iced tea ($1) is really all you need.
Ann Sather’s Cafe
(three forks)
2665 N. Clark St., 312-327-9522
7 a.m.-5p.m. daily; wheelchair accessible
Credit cards: A, DC, M, V
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RATINGS KEY: 4 forks: Top of the class 3 forks: Better than most 2 forks: Very good fare 1 fork: Middle of the road
