Over the years, as Bali has become more popular with travelers and development has filled more of the open space near the island’s beautiful beaches, worries have repeatedly surfaced that the place would be loved to death by foreigners drawn by its pristine beauty, magical culture and welcoming people. The real magic of Bali and the Balinese is how they’re able to absorb so much without losing their identity.
Yes, things have changed, but the qualities that have made the island a place of enchantment and mystery are still here.
Traditional culture thrives side by side with tourism on a grand scale. Every year it seems another luxury hotel opens, and more of the Balinese economy centers on serving visitors, whether by working in the hotels, making inexpensive crafts to sell to tourists or hustling everything from refreshments to massages on the beach. But worship at the countless temples has changed little; the traditional arts of carving and painting remain vital, perhaps even more so now with a ready market for high-quality work; and traditional music and dance is performed in many places every day, often for tourists, but with extraordinary skill and authenticity.
And of course the island’s natural beauty remains: the beaches, paddy fields, volcanoes and waterfalls create a timeless and romantic environment that is as close to paradise as you can get.
There is a broad spectrum of places to stay, from local compounds that cost next to nothing to suites in luxury hotels that cost upwards of $2,000 per night. Kuta has been famous for decades as a cheap, lively place, and it and nearby Legian remain the choice for backpackers looking for a beach experience. The place is crass and commercial but full of energy, and the beach is the best on the island.
Sanur and Nusa Dua aren’t far from Kuta and offer more relaxed accommodation and better services. Inland, the cultural center of Ubud is a popular place for studying traditional Balinese arts in a tranquil environment.
Around the island are magical temple sites, dramatic volcanoes that can be climbed, exquisite water palaces and, everywhere, friendly people. But hucksters abound as well. Some will undercut the tourist office price for transportation to a cremation in a village or a dance performance, only to leave you stranded. Others will promise more than they can provide. Be sure to ask around before agreeing to an excursion to make sure you find someone you can trust.
Worldwide updates
Burma: A Buddhist shrine in the capital city of Rangoon that is often visited by members of the ruling Law and Order Restoration Council was the site of two bomb blasts in late December that killed five people and injured 18. The government blamed two insurgent groups, although it remains unclear who set off the explosions. The violence follows months of government repression of opposition groups, whose gatherings have always been peaceful, and several student demonstrations in December. Travel here should be undertaken with caution.
Cambodia: The United States, French and Australian embassies have all been warned of possible attacks against their compounds in Phnom Penh. It is unknown when these attacks might occur. Until further notice it would be prudent to travel with caution, keep a low profile and minimize contacts with the diplomatic corps.
Central African Republic: Civil unrest exacerbated by military mutinies has occurred in the capital city of Bangui in recent months, and travel here should be avoided. Armed gangs are operating in and around Bangui with impunity because security forces are poorly paid and inadequately equipped.
France: A bomb exploded outside a government building in the Paris suburbs Dec. 23, causing some damage but no casualties. The blast had the hallmarks of Corsican separatists who are protesting French influence on the island. In a far more serious incident, four people were killed and dozens injured when a bomb exploded on a subway commuter train at rush hour in Paris in early December. This blast has caused a tightening of security throughout Paris.
India: Severe outbreaks of cerebral malaria (plasmodium falciparum) are occurring in northeastern India, with Calcutta being especially affected. Some 50 percent of all malaria in the region is now falciparum, and larvae tests in Calcutta report a 25 percent increase over the last five years in the infestation of the anopheles mosquito, the carrier of the disease. This mosquito thrives in all kinds of environments and is not limited to stagnant water or swamps. Consult a physician about the best preventive treatment, and be sure to wear clothing that covers the arms and legs.
Lebanon: There is a possibility that the State Department ban on U.S. travel to Lebanon could be lifted before Secretary of State Warren Christopher’s last day in office, Jan. 20. The ban will be under high-level review following $3.2 billion in international pledges made at a donor’s conference Dec. 16 to rebuild the war-torn country. For now the ban will remain in effect while safety for American business travelers is evaluated.
Peru: A state of emergency was imposed Dec. 27 in Lima in response to the ongoing crisis at the Japanese ambassador’s residence, where Tupac Amaru rebels have held more than 80 people hostage since Dec. 17. The decree grants police special arrest and search powers, and allows the government to place restrictions on travel throughout the country. These developments don’t necessarily affect travel to Peru, but tensions are high in Lima, and if the crisis is resolved violently it’s possible the rebel group could take some other action.
Serbia: Six weeks of protest against President Slobodan Milosevic’s rule in Belgrade have raised tensions to the breaking point, with violence finally breaking out Dec. 24 when a protester was killed in a clash with pro-government demonstrators. The demonstrations have been occurring daily since courts loyal to Milosevic annulled the results of the Nov. 17 municipal elections won by the opposition. On Dec. 27 an international fact-finding mission urged Milosevic to recognize opposition victories in the elections, but the advice was ignored. Travel with caution.
South Korea: A demonstration by striking workers in Seoul turned violent Dec. 28 and 29 when riot police fired tear gas at marchers and they, in turn, threw stones at police. The massive strike, the largest in the country’s history, began Dec. 26 when a walkout shut down shipbuilders and car factories. Subway employees joined the strike Dec. 28, and hospital workers threatened to follow suit. The strike was called by a union angry at a new South Korean labor law, passed at a dawn legislative session attended only by ruling party members, will allow worker layoffs. Travel with caution.
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Because conditions can change overnight, always make your own inquiries before you leave home. In the U.S., contact a Passport Agency office or the State Department in Washington; abroad, check in with the nearest American embassy or consulate.
