Things are all wrapped up for the new year, foodwise, anyway. Anything that’s flat and foldable, from tortillas, pita bread, rice papers, won ton skins, phyllo dough, lefse, even lettuce leaves, is being called on to deliver packaged meals.
Ethnic cuisines have long understood the appeal of have-your-plate-and-eat-it-too meals. Writing in “Flatbreads & Flavors: A Baker’s Atlas,” authors Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid note that flatbread, the base point for wrap sessions, is the world’s oldest form of bread, dating back more than 6,000 years. Different styles developed simultaneously wherever there was a ready supply of grain, leading to a multicultural mix of uses and recipes. Egg rolls, moo shu pork, quesadillas, burritos, calzones and turnovers are just some of the international array of packaged goods.
Now, in a trend that kicked off in California (where else?), wrapping has edged into the American mainstream.
Taco Bell, KFC and Long John Silver produce fast-food renditions, and Burrito Beach, which has two Chicago-area outlets, favors multi-ethnic versions. Trendy restaurants have wrapped up some ideas of their own.
“People gravitate to them,” says Jeanne Antic, owner of Toast, a Lincoln Park restaurant. “It’s the idea of getting a package, like a little present, maybe with some surprises tucked inside.”
So far, flour tortillas are the big wrap stars, and sales of this typically Mexican staple are increasing 10 percent annually. The growing Hispanic population accounts for much of the increase, but not all of it. Restaurants & Institutions magazine, a trade publication, reports that the “alternative sandwich/wrap” category is one of the fastest growing quick-serve menu categories.
So what’s inside? Not too surprisingly, Taco Bell is staying its Southwestern course, bundling up fajitas at 4,700 outlets nationwide.
“They’re a portable product, so our customers love them,” says Amy Sherwood, director of public affairs for Taco Bell Corp., in Irvine, Calif. “Wraps offer them a neat, exciting way to eat on the run.”
Duguid adds that flatbread, whether it’s used whole or torn into pieces, has functioned for centuries as a clean, tidy conveyance for meals. In modern-day interpretations, she says that is just part of the appeal.
“It makes food pleasurably accessible and allows you to make all sorts of decisions about what goes inside. It also demands better, fresher ingredients since there’s no disguising them. And the trend addresses an increasingly wider interest in ethnic foods,” Duguid said.
At Toast, four global wraps are on the menu: paella, spiced shrimp, grilled vegetable and Thai chicken and rice. Big Bowl restaurants tuck chili chicken into mandarin pancakes, and foodlife restaurant offers Asian stir-fry combinations.
Moving beyond the Mexican influence hinted at in the name, Burrito Beach puts Thai, Chinese and California cuisine into oversized tortilla wrappers.
“You can go anywhere with wraps, including places you can’t go with a sandwich,” says Greg Schulson, owner of Burrito Beach.
That concept translates to something useful at home. Wrapping transforms many foods, adding a new spin and a little spunk.
Leftover stew? Try bundling it up into buttery sheets of phyllo dough. Don’t feel like phoning for Thai carryout? Soak some rice papers and wrap shrimp and veggies into spring rolls. Bored with the same stir-fry selections? Add some rice and roll it all up into a tortilla.
“They’re visual and textural, big, substantial. And fun. They’ve replaced sandwiches,” Antic says optimistically.
Although wraps may seem like a trend, Duguid says, they’re not new.
“Wrapped meals have lasted for 6,000 years, so it’s really a revival rather than a trend.”
WARM WRAPS
Many wrappers taste even better warm. One of the best ways to heat up flour tortillas, Syrian bread and lavash is to place them directly on a medium-high gas flame. Flip them with tongs once or twice and cook just until they’re warm and toasty.
If you are heating a lot of wrappers, stack them together in aluminum foil, seal the packet and place in a 300-degree oven 10 to 15 minutes.
The microwave oven works fine too. Cover the wrap with a damp, microwave-safe paper towel and heat 15 to 20 seconds.
To make a wrapped sandwich
Place filling on bottom quarter of the tortilla or any wrap. Fold bottom up and over part of the filling, then fold the two sides in toward center.
ROUNDING UP WRAPPERS
Tortillas may be the most popular wrapper, but they’re not the only one. A tour of local supermarkets will yield a surprising variety of flatbreads and wrappers.
Crepes: Thin, French-style pancakes, 8 to 10 inches across. Packages are sold in the produce area of some supermarkets. Crepes are delicate, so use light fillings and serve them on a plate with a fork; they’re definitely not finger food.
Lavash: Thin, griddle-cooked Lebanese bread rounds similar to pita bread. The several brands we found vary in thickness; all are about 10 inches across. One of the best brands, Paramount, is about as thin as a tortilla but browned a little more.
Lefse: Also called Scandinavian potato bread or Norwegian wrapping bread. Traditionally it’s spread with butter, sprinkled with sugar and wrapped up for snacking. Another use: rolling it up with smoked meat or cheese and adding it to a smorgasbord. Usually round, it occasionally is sold in rectangular pieces too. Find it at Treasure Island, Byerly’s, Wikstrom’s and Sunset Foods.
Lettuce leaves: Big, soft outer leaves are great for wrapping grilled strips of meat as well as rice salads. Boston and leaf lettuce are good choices.
Naan: This East Indian bread baked in a tandoor oven is available in some specialty markets, including markets on Devon Avenue, and at Whole Foods. Seven-inch hand-shaped rounds are made of whole wheat; Garden of Eatin’ brand is spiced with garlic, ginger and curry.
Phyllo: Flaky, paper-thin leaves of dough, these are stacked, filled and baked into strudel-type presentations or folded into turnovers. They’re sold in the freezer case at most supermarkets and fresh at some Middle Eastern and Greek markets.
Pita bread: Often cut in half and filled as pockets, pita bread also can be folded in half or torn into pieces to serve with soups, stews and vegetable mixtures.
Syrian bread: A flat oval, about 12 by 5 inches, this is soft, pliable and slightly thicker than typical wrap breads. It’s great for serving with curries and saucy, spicy mixtures. Instead of wrapping them into bundles, tear off pieces of the bread and wrap each bite. Middle Eastern bakeries are a reliable source; we also found it at Market Place in Chicago.
Tortillas: Flour tortillas are the best bet for wrapping. Several sizes and many brands are available. Try to use locally made ones, such as El Milagro, Atotonilco and La Mexicana, which are fresher and more authentic than mass-produced brands. The smallest ones are best for tacos and such, where a simple fold-over is all you need. Burrito-size tortillas are the ones to select when you want enough to fully enclose the contents. Sunset Foods and Byerly’s have flavored tortillas in vibrant colors such as red and green.
Won ton and egg roll wrappers: Small squares that are used for fried Chinese egg rolls and filled dumplings. Alternative uses include ravioli, blintzes and cannoli. Deep frying is traditional, although they also can be sauteed after filling.
Vietnamese rice paper: To use these brittle, transparent circles, soak them in hot water about 15 minutes. This softens them, readying the circles for rolling around Vietnamese specialties. Spring rolls can be deep-fried after soaking or served as is, filled with light ingredients and chilled. Try wrapping them around herbed, chilled shrimp with tender lettuce leaves or spicy tofu with peanut sauce. A trip to an Asian market, such as Thai Grocery, 5041 N. Broadway, is in order to find these.
Hye Roller: Platter-size rounds modeled after Armenian cracker bread. The Hye Quality Bakery in Fresno, Calif., reconfigured the crisp bread, making 15-inch rounds that are soft, pliable and ready to roll. Too big for single servings, they’re best used for rolling up cold cuts and cheese, jellyroll style.
CHICKEN CAESAR WRAP
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Yield: 2 servings
A classic Caesar salad goes undercover in this recipe from Burrito Beach. Leftover chicken also would work fine.
2 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, grilled or cooked as desired, cut in strips
4 cups romaine lettuce, torn in bite-size pieces
2 large plum tomatoes, diced
1/4 cup Caesar salad dressing plus additional for serving
2 whole-wheat or regular flour tortillas, about 10 inches in diameter
1/4 cup (1 ounce) shaved or grated Parmesan cheese
Salt, ground pepper to taste
1. Place chicken strips in medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Add lettuce, tomatoes and 1/4 cup of the dressing. Toss to combine.
2. Divide filling between tortillas, placing filling on bottom quarter. Add cheese and freshly ground pepper. Fold bottom flap up over filling; fold the two sides in toward center, overlapping slightly. Serve with additional dressing.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ….. 520 Fat ………… 22 g Cholesterol .. 105 mg
Sodium …. 970 mg Carbohydrates .. 33 g Protein …….. 42 g
PAELLA WRAP
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Cooking time: 25 minutes
Vibrant golden rice and a mix of chicken, shrimp and sausage are easy stand-ins for classic Spanish paella. The recipe is from Toast restaurant.
1 box (6 ounces) saffron rice
1 tablespoon olive oil
Ground red pepper to taste
2 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, grilled or cooked as desired, cut in strips
4 chicken apple sausage links (1 pound), cooked, sliced
10 medium cooked, peeled shrimp, split in half
4 plum tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup chopped cilantro, optional
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic, minced
4 flour tortillas, about 10 inches in diameter
1. Cook rice according to package, using 1 tablespoon olive oil in place of butter called for. Add ground red pepper to taste; cool to room temperature.
2. Combine rice, chicken, sausages, shrimp, tomatoes and cilantro in medium bowl. Toss well; add more red pepper if needed. Stir together mayonnaise, lemon juice and garlic in another small bowl.
3. Warm tortillas if desired. Divide filling among tortillas, spooning filling into bottom quarter. Fold bottom flap over filling then fold the two sides in toward center, overlapping slightly to close. Serve with lemon mayonnaise.
Nutrition information per serving (with mayonnaise):
Calories ……. 815 Fat ………… 35 g Cholesterol .. 155 mg
Sodium …. 1,185 mg Carbohydrates .. 80 g Protein …….. 43 g
LENTIL AND SWEET PEPPER SALAD
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Soaking time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
This recipe, adapted from “Flatbreads &Flavors,” is a great filling for pita, Syrian bread or lavash. Additional vegetables can be added; cooked eggplant, zucchini, diced tomatoes, hot chili peppers and leeks are among the possibilities. Crumbled goat cheese or feta cheese can be sprinkled on at serving time.
1 cup green or brown lentils, rinsed, soaked in hot water 30 minutes
3 cups water
2 cloves garlic, split
1 large red bell pepper, diced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon each ground coriander, salt, ground pepper
3 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar or fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, minced
1. Put soaked, drained lentils in saucepan with 3 cups water and garlic cloves. Heat to a boil; reduce heat and simmer gently, covered, until lentils are tender, 10 to 15 minutes for green lentils, 20 to 30 minutes for brown lentils. Drain well.
2. Place lentils in mixing bowl; add bell pepper. Combine oil, coriander, salt and pepper in small bowl; whisk in vinegar or lemon juice. Add to lentil mixture; add cilantro and mix well. Serve in pita bread, lavash or flour tortillas.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ….. 215 Fat …………. 7 g Cholesterol .. 0 mg
Sodium …. 270 mg Carbohydrates .. 27 g Protein …… 12 g
SWEDISH DILLED ROAST BEEF AND RED CABBAGE LEFSE WRAPS
Preparation time 15 minutes
Yield 2 servings
3/4 cup red cabbage, sliced paper-thin
1 teaspoon each; raspberry or red wine vinegar; vegetable oil salt, freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon prepared horseradish cream
2 lefse (Scandinavian potato bread rounds)
1 tablespoon minced fresh dill
2 large Boston lettuce leaves
3 to 4 ounces thinly sliced roast beef
1. Toss cabbage with vinegar, oil, salt and pepper
2. Spread horseradish cream over lefse; sprinkle with small amount of dill. Top with lettuce, roast beef, cabbage and remaining dill. Roll up like a burrito.
Nutrition information per serving
Calories ….. 230 Fat ………… 11 g Cholesterol …. 40 mg
Sodium …. 235 mg Carbohydrates .. 19 g Protein ……… 15 g
