The name Chateau Rose lends an air of elegance to this Czech restaurant but the decor–low ceiling, dark paneling, vinyl chairs and brown tables–is merely serviceable, and that’s where the ambience stays. No matter–the reasonable prices and generous, well-prepared servings make this a worthy destination when stretching your stomach and wallet are more important than your aesthetic needs.
Our satisfaction with the menu began with the note that all dinners include soup, salad, vegetable–even dessert.
Despite all these offerings, we ordered an appetizer anyway. Our waitress warned us that the shrimp cocktail ($5.95) would take a while because the shrimp is boiled fresh–that seemed less a warning than an inducement. When it arrived about 15 to 20 minutes later, five large, plump shrimp were slightly warm and deliciously fresh. A tangy cocktail sauce accompanies the fish.
We tried both soups offered that evening: chicken Rosemarie and liver dumpling. The chicken was lightly seasoned with plenty of meat; the other soup was more robust, with the strong, full flavor of liver.
The salad bar, in addition to a big bowl of iceberg lettuce and four choices of dressing, offers an array of freshly made cold salads. Be sure to try the thick, peppery potato salad and creamy, tangy coleslaw.
We ordered three entrees: roast pork tenderloin, roast beef and Hungarian goulash ($7.50 each). The cuts of pork and beef were tender enough to slice with a fork and were served with a rich, flavorful gravy and thick mashed potatoes. The hearty goulash, with large chunks of tender beef and assorted stew vegetables, was served with just the right accent of paprika.
As sides we ordered peas and sweet and sour cabbage. The peas were unremarkable, and the sweet-and-sour cabbage leaned far too heavily toward the sweet. Sauerkraut also is available.
While everybody waffled over dessert choices–kolacky, apple strudel and lemon cake that night–our waitress announced she would serve us a sample platter of all three. The rich, freshly made desserts are baked on the premises. Kolachy is offered daily; other items vary.
A full bar serves beer, wine and mixed drinks. The list of daily specials always includes a drink; that night, it was a whiskey sour for $1.50. The diner who ordered it found herself sitting behind a large brandy snifter with a drink that was expertly mixed, and full strength.
As for service, our waitress was a blend of good-natured and bossy. But we knew she offered her opinions for our greater good–and she was always right.
A cautionary note: There isn’t a non-smoking section. Our party was able to sit in a relatively smokeless area, but that may not always be the case.
Chateau Rose
(two forks)
5830 W. Cermak Rd., Cicero
708-656-5690
11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun.-Thurs.; 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. Fri. – Sat.
Credit cards: D, DC, M, V
Wheelchair accessible
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RATINGS KEY: 4 forks: Top of the class 3 forks: Better than most 2 forks: Very good fare 1 fork: Middle of the road
