They make a good team. Greens have flair, grains are no-frills. Grains offer substance while greens add color and texture. Greens shrink when cooked, grains plump up. Even better, greens and grains make a nutritious but delicious dynamic duo. Their complementary flavors provide comfort food with dozens of vitamins, minerals and phytonutrients. Adding some greens and grains to your diet is suggested by every dietitian.
But the advice goes beyond the morning bowl of oatmeal (which can get boring) or daily tossed salad (of virtually no nutritional value if iceberg lettuce is the main ingredient). The abundance of more robust greens and whole grains in supermarkets opens up a whole new set of menu options.
Restaurants also are not about to miss out on a trend. The city’s formidable number of Middle Eastern dining spots are developing inventive ingredients for the standby bulgur kibbe and introducing couscous to new customers every day. Polenta appears on most Italian menus, and brown rice has become an option in newer Asian restaurants. Greens have arrived as full-bodied side dishes; the salad of baby lettuces is a new tradition.
Greens, which include the common lettuces and spinach we toss into raw salads, includes a whole group of wild, edible leaves that have been domesticated. Some cultures are already ahead of the curve, having made a tradition of such dishes as mustard greens or collards. Yet there is no reason others can’t join the advanced group.
What qualifies as a grain is more elusive. Raymond Sokolov, author of “With the Grain,” provides a useful definition.
“Grains contain the seeds of grasses. The useful `grain’ parts of the plants, those parts fit for human consumption, are the endosperms. These little packets of starch, protein and other nutrients are meant by nature to nourish the true seed–called the germ or embryo.”
There’s no arguing that greens and grains are good for you. They form the foundation of any nutritionally sound food pyramid, whether its origins are the Mediterranean, Asia or some administrator’s office at the USDA.
But some might question whether greens and grains can taste good too.
“Grains need some flavor,” said Paula Wolfert, the cookbook author who broke new ground with “Mediterranean Cooking” in 1977. “Otherwise they don’t taste that great and people won’t eat them for long, even if they promise so many health benefits. You need some fat, and there are ways to use spices to `coach’ the flavors.”
Greens also have a reputation as something you should eat but don’t necessarily want to eat. One study has shown that some people even have a genetic makeup that causes them to dislike the bitter taste of certain greens.
“I love blending greens like chard, kale, mustard green, collards and watercress,” said Wolfert, who is working on a new book about Mediterranean greens and grains to be published next year. “You can get this wonderful, deeply flavorful, distinctive mess of greens. And you don’t have to cook them with pork or other saturated fats to make them taste good.
“I sometimes just steam and wilt them, then drag the greens through garlic sauteed in heated olive oil. That enriches the flavor more than just pouring some olive oil over the top. If you want, throw a little anchovy in with the garlic.”
Wolfert tries something new for dinner almost every night. But she and her husband choose a “refreshing” raw green salad most evenings to accompany a meal. For two, she combines a half cup each of green cabbage or Chinese cabbage and arugula or baby greens, some chopped cilantro to taste, a bit of feta cheese, a drizzle of olive oil, lemon juice and three chopped green olives.
Barbara Grunes, a cookbook author from Glencoe, recently completed “All-American Waves of Grain,” due out in April. She turned to grains as part of her own lifestyle changes.
“Over 30 years, I have seen many changes in people’s eating patterns,” she said. “For me, getting a bit older gets me thinking I need to eat better, adding more whole grains and greens to my meals. It works: Eating better makes me feel better.”
Grunes was pleasantly surprised at how such nutritious foods still produced flavor and fun in the kitchen. “Cooking grains is so much more creative than simply using meats and chicken,” she said. “There is much more variety in tastes.”
For example, she discovered the “ground nut” flavor of amaranth and “sweet soft-crunchy” quinoa, both ancient grains. She has enjoyed adding millet to her breads (“crunchy and fluffy at the same time”) and buckwheat in her crepes (“more robust”).
Another plus: Many grains are easy to cook and make great leftovers to spruce up next-day salads or soups. Wolfert often doesn’t cook her bulgur (cracked wheat); simply soaking it for 20 to 30 minutes in boiling water (or about 2 hours in cold water) is enough when making it into a pilaf for lunch. She adds parsley for homemade tabbouleh (12 grams of fiber per cup) or any number of protein-rich ingredients from chicken to chickpeas.
Grunes likes cooking with barley, which can be simmered stovetop or microwaved. Like cooks already familiar with grains, she knows barley can transform mushroom soup but also can be turned into main-course patties as well as rolls and stuffings.
Recipes for greens and grains are growing like a field of wild oats. The new crop of vegetarian cookbooks has a variety of recipes for both, as does any book on the American South or the Mediterranean. Grunes’ book has more than 200 grain dishes, and so does the recently published “The Splendid Grain” (Morrow, $30), by Rebecca Wood (see below).
“The best part is they provide a banquet of health,” said Dr. Keith Block, an Evanston physician noted for prescribing nutrition plans to cancer patients. “Grains have marvelous fiber content and cancer-inhibiting effectiveness–provided we stop stripping their outer coats to make white flour and processed foods. “Greens have a whole host of phytonutrients that go beyond simple vitamins.”
Even so, the real final exam is at the dinner table. Greens and grains pass the test.
GRAIN REIGNS
AN OVERVIEW OF OVERLOOKED GRAINS
Whole grains are among nature’s most complete health foods. They are bursting with complex carbohydrates, fiber, protein, micronutrients and even have a little unsaturated fat. Most of us are familiar with grains such as wheat, corn, rice, oats, rye and couscous (which is a variation on dried pasta). But others are showing up in stores more regularly, so an update is in order. Most bulk whole grains need to be kept in a cool place and used within a week or two of purchase to avoid spoilage.
AMARANTH
This Aztec grain, native to the Americas, is popular in health-food versions of cereal and flours. The tiny grain rivals skim milk and egg whites as a “perfect” protein (essential amino acids without the saturated fat). It can be cooked until creamy or tossed in a hot pan to become sort of a seasoned “popcorn.”
BARLEY
We get mostly the pearled variety–the inner part of the grain. That leaves behind significant protein, fiber and B vitamins, but studies show it lowers cholesterol in any form. Barley keeps longer than other grains; about six months in a pantry without spoilage.
BUCKWHEAT
This grain has its culinary roots in 10th Century central Asia. Its flour makes a great pancake. Its pale, whole kernels make up groats. When the groats are roasted, it’s called kasha and can form the basis for a pilaf. It keeps longer than many grains.
BULGUR
Precooked, crushed wheat berries. Fine-ground bulgur can simply be soaked for 10 to 30 minutes (the less time, the crunchier). Coarse varieties need to be cooked. Makes wonderful pilafs; teams up with parsley as main ingredient of tabbouleh.
KAMUT
Buttery and chewy, this ancient Egyptian grain can be substituted for bulgur, couscous and rice in recipes.
MILLET
Versatile and quick-cooking with sweet, mild flavor. It’s a wonderful stand-in for mashed potatoes or rice. Using it in your home-baked breads (or trying a bakery version) will surely convert you.
QUINOA
Pronounced “KEEN-wah.” With South American origins, it’s sort of a cross between mustard seeds and millet. Higher in plant fat than most grains, it needs to be kept in air-tight containers.
SPELT
The Bible has several references to spelt, and American farmers grew a lot in the early 1900s. It’s like wheat in taste and use, but its gluten may be easier to digest for those sensitive to wheat.
WILDRICE
Also known as water oats, this grass is not a true rice, though it’s grown in a similar fashion. Its taste hints at black tea and hazelnuts.
GRAINS BY THE COOKBOOK
A grains cookbook doesn’t have to be too heavy on vegetarian dishes. “The Splendid Grain” (Morrow, $30), by Rebecca Wood demonstrates the ability of grains to complement meat, fish and poultry.
The book breaks down grains into “bio-regions” such as Native American, Asian, Near Eastern, European and African. (One of the more exotic listings is Job’s Tears, similar to barley. Unhulled, it has been used for prayer beads and necklaces).
The 200-plus recipes are as diverse as the regions covered, providing ideas for breakfast (buckwheat pumpkin muffins), lunch (grilled turkey and short-grain brown rice salad) and dinner (gingered lamb and quinoa in phyllo). There also are recipes for many native breads (crunchy millet, coarse-grain sourdough rye, Ethiopian injera). A mail-order guide points you toward hard-to-find grains.
GREENS SCENE
GREENS TO GET TO KNOW
Dozens of greens have become available at supermarkets. To retain most of their nutrients, steam just long enough to wilt them and achieve a deep green color. Longer cooking can enhance flavor even if many of their vitamins disappear, but they will retain other phytochemicals associated with disease prevention.
Here are some greens that can brighten any meal:
CHARD
It looks and cooks up like monster spinach, but inner leaves are more like lettuce. Stems should be cooked separately; the result is akin to asparagus. The best chard has crisp, intensely green leaves. Ribs should be stiff. If chard is bunched, check to see that it has not been bruised from being bundled too tightly. Italians dress it with oil and lemon juice; the French use it in pats. It’s a good source of iron and vitamin C.
CHINESE CABBAGE
There are three types: firm barrel shape, firm celery shape and loose-headed. Leaves are sweet, thin and crisp. It’s a good source of calcium, folic acid and potassium.
COLLARD GREENS
Collards have a tart flavor somewhere between cabbage and turnip greens. Cook them without stems, which are better chopped and sauteed. Collards are full of anti-cancer phytochemicals. Popular in the American South, collards also are a staple on Turkey’s Black Sea coast.
DANDELION GREENS
Jagged leaves have a slightly bitter taste. Their aggressive flavor makes them a great pick-me-up for a salad; they also enliven soups. They have lots of calcium and beta carotene. Don’t throw out the cooking water; some Italian cooks say drinking it helps keep a youthful appearance.
KALE
This hardy winter green is an ancient plant that preceded broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts. If the stalks are tender, cook them with the greens. If not, chop and cook separately like celery. Although most greens cook down dramatically–1 pound can reduce to a half-cup–kale holds its own. Your favorite cabbage recipes might be done a good turn by substituting kale.
MESCLUN
This is a mix of small greens whose exact makeup depends on the supplier. The classic South of France blend contains small lettuces, endive, arugula and chervil (herb with a lacy leaf that tastes like parsley dipped in licorice).
MUSTARD GREENS
Small is better. Larger leaves can be bitter and tough. Some mustard greens are tender in 10 minutes of simmering; others take a couple of hours. All greens need good rinsing but this one tops the must-wash list. It has lots of vitamin C. Variations include broad-leaf mustards, broccoli raab, common mustards and curled mustards.
TURNIP GREENS
Snappy little leaves are milder in their youth. Great source of beta carotene and calcium.
LAMB KIBBE
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings as main dish, 6 to 8 as appetizer
Adapted from “With the Grain,” by Raymond Sokolov.
3/4 pound ground lamb
1 cup bulgur, washed in sieve, kneaded to soften, remove excess moisture
1 medium onion, peeled, quartered
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
Pepper to taste
Vegetable oil
Parsley for garnish
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Put all ingredients in large bowl or food processor, mixing until homogeneous paste is formed.
2. Form into small patties, brush with oil and bake 15 minutes. Just before serving, brown both sides of patties under broiler. Garnish with parsley.
Nutrition information per main-dish serving:
Calories …….. 300 Sodium …. 1,120 mg Fat …… 12 g
Carbohydrates .. 30 g Cholesterol .. 55 mg Protein .. 19 g
GREEN BEAN AND BARLEY CAKES
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 8 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “The Grains Cookbook,” by Bert Greene.
1/4 pound green beans, trimmed
1/3 cup pearl barley, cooked according to package directions, chilled
1 shallot, minced
1 teaspoon minced jalapeno pepper
1 to 2 eggs, slightly beaten
1 cup (about 4 ounces) grated Monterey Jack cheese
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt, freshly ground pepper, chopped parsley to taste
1. Heat oven to 225 degrees. Cook beans in boiling salted water until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain, cool, finely chop. Combine beans with barley, shallot, jalapeno and cheese in large bowl; mix well. Add just enough egg to hold mixture together
2. Spread bread crumbs on a plate. Scoop 1 tablespoon of bean-barley mixture and, using your finger, push it from spoon to crumbs. Pat crumbs into both sides of cake. Transfer to another plate, repeat.
3. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in large, heavy skillet over medium-low heat. Cook cakes until golden brown and crisp, about 4 minutes per side. Add oil as needed. Keep warm in oven while others cook. Sprinkle with salt, pepper and parsley or other finely chopped herbs.
Test kitchen note: 1 egg and 1 egg white can be substituted for 2 whole eggs.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories … 385 Fat ………… 23 g Cholesterol .. 165 mg
Sodium .. 320 mg Carbohydrates .. 29 g Protein …….. 16 g
WINTER GREENS WITH CURRANTS, PINE NUTS AND BROWN BUTTER
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “Fields of Greens,” by Annie Somerville.
2 to 3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon dried currants
1/4 cup hot water
6 cups each, about 12 ounces: kale leaves, spinach leaves
6 cups chard leaves, plus a few stems
1 tablespoon light olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1/4 cup water
Salt, freshly ground pepper to taste
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted
1. Melt butter in heavy skillet over medium-low heat until it turns light brown, about 10 minutes, being careful not to burn. While brown butter is cooking, cover currants with hot water to plump; set brown butter and currants aside. Prepare greens by tearing leaves away from stems, then cut leaves into ribbons 2 to 3 inches wide. Wash and dry greens in a spinner.
2. Heat oil in large skillet; add chard stems, garlic, water and pinches of salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat 1 minute. Add kale, cook 1 minute. Add chard, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and pinch pepper; toss over medium-high heat until kale and chard are just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. (The pan may appear overfull, but greens should quickly cook down.)
3. Lower heat, add brown butter, spinach, currants and pine nuts. Cook until spinach is just wilted. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with pan juices.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …. 170 Fat ………… 11 g Cholesterol .. 15 mg
Sodium … 285 mg Carbohydrates .. 16 g Protein …….. 7 g
SPICY COLLARDS
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “The Vegetarian Way,” by Virginia and Mark Messina.
1 pound fresh collards, rinsed, cut into strips
2 cups vegetable broth
1 large onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon each: olive oil, freshly grated ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper, or more to taste
Salt, freshly ground pepper
1. Place collards and broth in large saucepan; heat to a simmer. Cook until collards are completely tender, about 45 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cook onions and garlic in olive oil in large skillet until onions are transparent. Add ginger and red pepper; stir 1 minute. Add collards and stock; simmer until most liquid has evaporated, 20 to 30 minutes. Add salt and pepper.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ….. 100 Fat …………. 4 g Cholesterol .. 0 mg
Sodium …. 410 mg Carbohydrates .. 12 g Protein ……. 5 g
