Q–During the last year, as we have upgraded our two-story home, we have made a number of energy improvements to it as well. Three years ago, we installed a new high-efficiency forced air furnace, and in the last year, have added new windows around most of our home.
Now we’d like to make the house even more energy-efficient by insulating the ductwork that starts out in our unheated basement and travels up through walls to the rest of the house.
Also, we’d like to insulate the hot water pipes that also go from the basement and up to the second floor bathroom.
We have no idea on how to approach such a project but would like it to be a do-it-yourselfer situation. Also, we’re wondering what the payback on something like this would be? Or is it something we should not even consider?
Jim and Elizabeth Coffin, Munster, Ind.
A–You’re on the right track with these projects, although it will take a while–probably a year or so–to see a return on your initial investment on both projects.
There’s a couple of ways you can insulate the ductwork, says Robert Scott, manager of technical services for the California Home Energy Efficiency Rating System, a organization that’s geared to helping homeowners save money through energy-efficient upgrades.
First, seal any cracks, splits or open seams in the system with a ductwork sealant that is sold at large home improvement outlets. It’s usually sold in cans or caulk-like tubes. “Don’t use duct tape for this job as it usually gives way,” says Scott.
Then, you can literally blanket the ductwork with batt insulation, the type you would normally place in walls, attic and floor joists. A batt with an R value of 9–which is about an inch and one-half thick–will do you fine.
“People basically improvise their way around this process,” says Scott, who suggests cutting the batt into appropriate pieces and keeping it wrapped around the ductwork with duct tape. But don’t compress the batt as it will lose its insulation value.
Cover only ductwork that’s accessible. If you have to break into walls, there won’t be a payback there.
When completed, you’ll prevent two types of heat loss: hot air that has leaked out of the cracks and openings, and hot air that is lost through the ductwork itself by conduction. The latter is especially prevalent with ductwork running through cold basements.
Right off the bat, you might notice that the entire house is more comfortable/warmer, and you might need to adjust the vents on the system to compensate for the change.
You might also notice that your basement is colder as you’re no longer heating it.
Covering your hot water pipes with preformed insulation sleeves is an even easier project, says Scott.
The sleeves are available at most hardware stores and come in six-foot lengths for a number of different pipe diameters. Simply slide the sleeve on and there’s often a piece of adhesive tape on the sleeve to keep it in place.
Try to cover as much of the hot water pipes as you can reach and go up to the point where the supply pipe leaves the water heater.
Again, you’ll only be knocking a few pennies off your water heating bill each day but eventually those pennies will add up to where they pay for the sleeves.
From there on in, it’s money you’ll be saving.
SAVE ENERGY, SAVE MONEY
Are you looking for ways to cut your utility bills? Perhaps, you’re hoping to keep out winter’s drafts or the heat of the summer?
If you have a question about home energy or home environmental issues, Energy Q&A may be able to help. Writer Jim Sulski will present your questions to the professionals with the answers.
Write to Energy Q&A, Chicago Tribune, Your Place section, 435 N. Michigan Ave., 4th Floor, Chicago, Ill. 60611. Or you can e-mail energy qa@aol.com. Questions will be answered only through the column. No phone calls will be accepted.
