Decks are useful and add a fine decorative touch to many homes, but require regular maintenance to keep them in good condition.
Any deck should be given a spring checkup to uncover any structural problems or other damage. If the deck is elevated and there is access underneath, check the supporting posts and joists (the horizontal beams that support the decking or floor) for severe splits and rot.
Minor splitting, which shows up as small cracks in otherwise solid wood, is sometimes a cosmetic problem but is not hazardous.
Check for rot by jabbing posts and joists with an icepick or awl, which will sink easily into rotted wood. Fortunately, the supporting structures of most modern decks are built with rot-resistant pressure-treated wood, so rot is not a common problem.
Badly split or rot-weakened joists can be strengthened by adding a so-called sister joist. This is simply a new joist of the same size as the old one. Put the new joist snugly against the damaged one, then nail or bolt the two joists securely together.
Replacing rotted or badly damaged posts is usually a job for a deck contractor, especially if the post has an underground concrete support or footing. If a post is supported by an above-ground concrete base, temporarily prop up the deck in the area of the damaged post with a new post resting on a concrete paving block or other firm base.
Remove the damaged post and replace it with one of the same size. Securely fasten the new post in place, then remove the temporary post.
Decking boards, on the floor of a deck, generally have the most damage because of their full exposure to sun and rain. Splitting, splintering and warping are common, and the best solution is to replace all or part of a damaged board. Decking boards that are screwed in place are the easiest to replace — just remove the screws, lift out the board, and attach a new board of the same size with screws.
If a decking board is nailed in place, it must be pried off to be replaced. This requires a sturdy pry bar and, sometimes, quite a bit of muscle. I recommend using screws when nailed boards are replaced.
If only part of a decking board is damaged, just the damaged portion needs to be removed. Use a jigsaw or saber saw, which has a thin, protruding blade, to saw out the damaged section. The saw cuts should be flush with the inside edges of the joists at each end of the damaged section.
Pry out the nails or remove the screws from the damaged piece, taking care not to mar any nearby decking. Lift out the damaged piece and cut another piece of decking of the same size.
Attach “nailers,” using nails or screws, to the sides of the joists at each end of the opening where the damaged section was removed. The nailers are simply short pieces of 2-by-4, screwed or nailed to the joists so they provide a fastening surface for the new piece of decking. Screw or nail the new section of decking in place.
Protruding or “popped” nail heads, which can cause tripping or other accidents, are another common deck problem. Carefully examine the deck for such nails, and pound them back into place or replace them with screws.
Deck railings and steps also should be checked for damage or weakness and repaired if necessary. Strong railings and steps are especially important on elevated decks where a fall could cause serious injury.
Many decks need yearly or twice-yearly cleaning and sealing (always clean before sealing). Most home centers and building-supply dealers sell a variety of deck cleaners. Wolman Deck Brightener, Thompson’s Deck Wash, and Flood’s Dekswood are examples. Cleaning will remove the gray film that discolors most decks and restore a “new wood” appearance. Mildew and dirt also are removed.
