If you can’t remember what color your car is or if daffodils are emerging from the dirt in the floor mats, it’s time for spring cleaning.
But there’s more to spring cleaning than meets the eye. The things we normally don’t see that affect your car’s performance need some attention as well.
The interior
Various filters are assigned the job of snagging dirt before it gets into your engine and causing damage, and they get a real workout during winter, one of the dirtiest seasons of the year.
The air filter, which collects dust from salt, sand and cinders (not to mention crumbled leaves), is a snap to replace, but a neglected air filter can lead to reduced gas mileage and increased emissions. While you’re at it, replace the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) breather filter (a small spongy filter in the air filter housing) as well as the PCV valve.
With the fuel filter, “out of sight, out of mind” seems to be the most applicable adage. But on fuel-injected cars, the fuel filter should be replaced about every 40,000 to 60,000 miles. If you can’t remember the last time it was replaced, replace it.
Carbureted cars require more frequent changes. As the fuel filter clogs, you may notice reduced performance or stalling in long, hard acceleration. On your fuel-injected car, leave this job to a professional technician unless you know how to depressurize the system.
If it has been more than three months or 3,000 miles, change the oil and filter. Changing the oil, but not the filter is like taking a bath with your socks on.
Be sure the oil you select has the proper viscosity (5W-30 and 10W-30 are the most common) as well as the right API (American Petroleum Institute) rating, which you’ll find in the owner’s manual. SJ is the most recent rating and is fine for any engine that requires ratings such as SG or SH.
If you didn’t change your coolant last fall, have your system flushed and filled. We like to install one of those flushing T gizmos in the heater hose so we can connect a garden hose to do a thorough job.
The stuff most people call “antifreeze” helps prevent boil-over in the summer. A 50/50 mixture usually is adequate and will protect your car against boil-over up to 265 degrees.
If you want to really be cool, now is a good time to check your air conditioner and, if it isn’t up to snuff, get it serviced before the summer rush. Switch to maximum A/C and set the blower to high. The air coming from your dash vents should be about 40 degrees. Check all the blower speeds and move the mode lever for floor, vent and defrost to make sure the air goes where you want it.
To protect the Earth’s ozone layer, refrigerant may not be vented to the atmosphere; it must be recycled. If your systems needs service, you’ll have to take it to a certified A/C technician who has the proper tools and equipment because, even if your system only needs to be “topped off,” only licensed pros may buy refrigerant.
Replace your windshield wipers. Like a hole in the roof, wipers generally are forgotten until it rains, which happens a lot this time of year. The ravages of winter, sunlight and ground-level ozone destroy the wipers’ rubber squeegees. Peering through a streaky windshield is not only aggravating, it’s dangerous.
Besides helping you see where you are going, lights help others see you. Check all of yours. Walk around the car and make sure the side marker lights, tail and brake lights, parking lights and four-way hazard lights function.
Check the headlights on high and low beam. Hidden headlights don’t get cleaned often enough (they’re hidden in the carwash too), so clean yours. If oncoming cars have been flashing their lights at you, they may be trying to tell you your headlights need re-aiming.
Remove your snow tires and rotate your tires. While the wheels are off, inspect the brakes.
Check the air pressure in all your tires, including the spare. Is the jack still there?
While you’re in the trunk, get rid of that extra weight (those tire chains, that bag of sand, those phone books you’ve been meaning to recycle) and sweep out the crud.
To keep the chains from rusting in storage, spray them with a little light oil such as WD-40.
Check your first-aid kit and fire extinguisher and don’t forget the batteries in your flashlight.
Speaking of batteries, use a wire brush or special tool to clean the cable terminals and posts on the battery under the hood.
Crud built up on your battery can carry enough current to slowly discharge it.
Clean everything with a solution of water and baking soda, then rinse thoroughly with clear water.
When you reconnect the cables, apply anti-corrosion sealant or a little light grease.
By the way, disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last.
Most car owners forget to clean that huge mass of metal under the hood.
While your engine is warm but not hot, spray it liberally with a commercial emulsifier after covering the air intake (carburetor or throttle body) and ignition distributor (if your car has one) with plastic to keep them dry. Allow the chemical to do its job while you move to the interior.
Bits of dirt act like miniature knives on fabric, so thoroughly vacuum the carpets and seats. Don’t forget the “Bermuda Triangle” under the seats. You may discover enough treasure to buy lunch.
Remove the floor mats and wash off the salt and dirt. Clean the upholstery and apply protectant to the leather, vinyl and fabric. Wash the windows.
Now that it’s clean inside, grab your hose and turn your attention to the outside.
Before you close the hood, the engine cleaner has finished doing its work, so rinse it off.
The exterior
Use a high-pressure stream of water to flush the underside of your car befor you wash the body. A pressure washer works best; if you don’t have one, visit the coin-operated carwash.
Pay special attention to the wheel wells, where caked-on sand and dirt trap water that can cause rust.
Thoroughly wet your car before you begin washing and keep a trickle going from the hose in one hand as you work your sponge in the other.
The idea is to keep the dirt flowing away instead of dragging it around as you wash.
If you don’t have a rubber nozzle, be careful with the hose. Never use dishwashing liquid or laundry detergent on your car. Put a little commercial carwashing detergent in your bucket. If you’re frugal, use cheap bubble bath.
Start with the roof and work down because the rocker panels and wheels are usually the dirtiest parts.
Dry your car with a good chamois that you rinse and wring out often.
If a chamois is too dear for your budget, use soft terry cloth towels, tossing them aside as they pick up dirt.
Unless you’re a fanatic, you probably don’t often wash the door jambs and door sides. Make this your once-a-year exercise now.
Be sure the drain holes in the bottoms of the doors are open so they don’t retain water and rust.
Open the hood and trunk and clean the channels and inner surfaces.
While you have everything open, apply a thin coat of silicone to all the rubber gaskets.
There is some debate about waxing today’s cars. Most of them have a microscopically thin color base coat topped with an equally thin clear coat.
Some experts say if you are too aggressive, you can rub through the clear coat or paint.
We say some wax is better than none and suggest you use a quality wax or polish, as long as it doesn’t contain cleaners.
Follow the directions on the can or bottle and don’t apply wax in direct sunlight. A tall iced tea or a cold beer seem to improve the job.
Take a few steps back. Admire your work. Now you’re ready to mow the lawn.
