Suburban strip malls have their critics, but you can’t argue with their predictability. You can be confident that there will be plenty of parking. Make that free parking. And tucked in among the dry cleaners, convenience stores and opticians’ offices you’ll occasionally find a storefront restaurant with wonderful food.
Siam Kitchen, a Thai restaurant in west suburban Westmont, is one such example. Like many restaurants making their home in mini-malls, the interior decor is very familiar and somewhat forgettable. But it’s impeccably clean and subtly lighted, with the added elegance of tablecloths and cloth napkins.
We began our meal with two appetizers. Fresh spring rolls (two for $3.95) start as a culinary work of art and end as a satisfying starter course. Artfully filled rolls boast layers of tofu, bean sprouts, cucumber and scrambled egg, with a drizzled topping of caramelized sweet-and-sour plum sauce. Chicken satay ($4.95, pork also offered), six spiced chicken strips on bamboo skewers, would benefit with more spice, but the chicken is tender and fresh. Small bowls of a refreshing cucumber salad and a tangy curried peanut sauce accompany this selection.
We tried two soups, tom yum goong (hot-and-sour shrimp soup in a lime broth of lemon grass, citrus leaves, chili peppers and cilantro, $3.95) and tom kha kai (chicken-coconut soup in a coconut-milk broth, $2.95). Both of these creatively assembled soups are generously endowed with a delicious blend of crisp-tender vegetables and fresh meat or fish, but the broths disappointed. The shrimp soup’s was too astringent; the chicken’s contained some fish stock that fought with the other ingredients.
Our enchantment was restored when the entrees arrived. Siam Kitchen does not serve alcohol but they do serve phad khee moo, a k a drunken noodles ($6.50 with choice of chicken, beef or pork; add $1 for shrimp). An enormous platter comes heaped with rice noodles woven around peppers, tomatoes, bean sprouts and, in our dish, plenty of plump shrimp. Sweet basil leaves add a refreshing pungency.
Just as generous is Genghis Khan beef ($7.50), marinated beef strips sauteed in a chili-shallot sauce and dressed up with onion, sweet pepper and chili peppers. The beef was flavorful if a bit stringy, our only complaint for this filling and savory entree.
Peanut sauce chicken ($6.95) stir-fries tender, juicy sliced chicken breast with broccoli, carrots and peapods; this blend, served with rice, finds a perfect partner in the sweet, crunchy peanut sauce that’s sparked with Thai curry.
Dessert took us by surprise. Lured again by a colorful title, we ordered the babin, or “crazy custard” ($1.75). More a cake than a custard, this combination of yuca and fresh coconut has a rich, moist density and a fresh flavor. Like the other dessert, mor-kang (taro custard, $1.75), it’s made on the premises.
The beverage selection includes jasmine tea (75 cents), iced tea ($1, served with a wedge of lime), Thai iced coffee or Thai iced tea ($1.50).
Siam Kitchen’s food is clearly made to order, but the waits were not long. Service is gracious but not interfering.
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Siam Kitchen
(three forks)
West Grove Plaza, 341 W. Ogden Ave., Westmont, 630-964-3333
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Tues.-Thur.; 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 4-9:30 p.m. Sun. Closed Mon.
Credit cards: A, D, DC, M, V
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class 3 forks: Better than most 2 forks: Very good fare 1 fork: Middle of the road
