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Growing up in the 1960s, eating your vegetables was an all-or-nothing proposition in most households. Didn’t clean your plate? Don’t count on dessert. Millions of peas were likely consumed by schoolchildren for the subsequent chocolate cake payoff.

But becoming a vegetarian, or moving in that direction, does not have to be an all-or-nothing proposition. There is no need to sacrifice flavor, enjoyment or variety if you are choosing vegetarianism for health reasons. You don’t even have to give up all meat, poultry and fish.

“The word `vegetarian’ has a Latin root which means to grow or be vigorous,” said Darra Goldstein, a Russian literature professor at Williams College in Williamstown, Mass., and a vegetarian cookbook author who is not a strict vegetarian herself. “Eating less meat can actually expand your range of foods and recipes.”

“Goldstein participated in a panel discussion, “The Relaxed Vegetarian: Balancing Pleasure with Health,” at the April convention of the International Association of Culinary Professionals in Chicago. More than 100 chefs, cooking teachers and other food professionals attended the discussion.

Fellow panelist and author Jeanne Lemlin recommended moderation in any move toward vegetarianism. Becoming a vegan–eliminating dairy products and eggs along with meat, poultry and fish–is much harder, she said.

“You must make the commitment to be informed,” she said. “For instance, the vitamin B-12 is plentiful in eggs and dairy. You need to know foods like tempeh and sea greens can compensate” before you leap into full-fledged vegetarianism.

You don’t have to eliminate chicken or other meats. Some “modified vegetarians” insist that soups, for instance, simply taste better with a base of chicken broth instead of water or vegetable broth. Some non-meat eaters find it easy to give up beef if they can just keep fish on their dinner plates. Considering meat as a condiment rather than a main dish is another feasible compromise. The goal of all these techniques is to move meat away from its central role without pushing it off the plate entirely.

Lemlin reviewed the potential health benefits of vegetarianism–more fiber and phytonutrients, less saturated fat–while acknowledging that meat lovers could present their own batch of positive research studies.

“Eating a diet high in grains, legumes, fruits and vegetables makes it easier to meet daily nutritional needs,” she said. “People can use vegetarian meals to alternate the ways they eat and prepare foods.”

Virginia Messina, a registered dietitian and co-author of “The Vegetarian Way” (Crown), recommended moving to three meatless dinners each week as the first stage in her nine-step plan to becoming a vegetarian.

“You can stop there and still come out ahead in terms of introducing more grains, vegetables and nutritious foods to your family’s diet,” Messina said. “That’s especially true if you look for ways to add less oil during cooking or reduce the fats from meat and dairy in dishes.”

Going meatless becomes easier, Messina said, once individuals learn more about the potential flavors and enjoyments of vegetarian dishes. As discussed at the culinary conference, restaurants are boosting vegetarian trends by adding more meatless entrees to menus. (Be aware, though, that “vegetarian” doesn’t necessarily mean low-fat: Keep an eye on the amount of cheese and even olive oil.)

Panelist Anna Thomas, a vegetarian cookbook author, acknowledged the contribution of restaurant chefs but flatly rejected the notion that vegetarian meals need to be “labor-intensive” to be interesting.

“My purpose of cooking is fun and enjoyment,” she said. “We all have stressful lives. One thing I feel I can control is how well I eat. But I won’t compromise having fun with food.”

Vegetarian cuisine lends itself to “plan-ahead cooking,” Thomas said.

“I make up a big pot of white Tuscan beans regularly. I put them in the refrigerator, then use them during the week. I might put them in a blender for soup or toss them with roasted vegetables in some pasta.

“Roasting vegetables is about as easy as cooking can get. You drizzle some olive oil, sprinkle some salt and blast them for an hour while you go off on other chores. You then have fixings for salads, soups and even main courses.”

COLD SWEET PEPPER SOUP WITH SAGE

Preparation time: 25 minutes

Cooking time: 40 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Adapted from “Eat Fresh, Stay Healthy,” by Tony Tantillo and Sam Gugino.

1 tablespoon butter

1 medium onion, chopped

4 to 5 red or combination red, yellow and orange bell peppers, roasted, peeled, seeded, about 2 pounds

4 cups fat-free chicken broth

1 cup evaporated skim milk

2 to 3 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage

Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Melt butter in large heavy saucepan or small Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onion; cook until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.

2. Chop peppers and add to saucepan. Cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Add chicken broth. Heat to a boil; reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes.

3. Pour pepper mixture into blender or food processor fitted with metal blade. Blend until smooth. Add milk, sage, salt and pepper to taste; blend to incorporate. Return to saucepan and heat through, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasonings and chill.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ……. 170 Fat …………. 5 g Cholesterol .. 10 mg

Sodium …… 880 mg Carbohydrates .. 22 g Protein ……. 12 g