Don Clemens enjoys Indian food so much, he cooks it at home. Don Clemens is also a self-styled “wine person.” He makes his living selling wine and drinks it for pleasure. So, despite the meager and often inappropriate wine offerings in many Indian restaurants, despite the harm that pungent and searing hot Indian fare can wreak on an innocent wine, he continues to search for a vinous nirvana.
“It’s been a natural progression,” he says, “as I learn Indian spice combinations and use them in different dishes, to try to find wines that go with them.”
This passion led to two tastings at the stylish Klay Oven restaurant, 414 N. Orleans St., during which 38 wines and more than 40 food items were tasted. With the help of general manager Prem Khosla, a wine aficionado, the second tasting was scaled down and more smoothly executed than the first.
A (red) zinfandel paired best with marinated lamb, but also was well suited to shrimp in a rich, onion- and chili-flavored red sauce. White zinfandel, on the other hand, was too sweet for the shrimp dish. Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee, a California sparkler, was the wine best suited to murg makhani, chicken cubes marinated in yogurt and assertive spices. A surprisingly rich Soave couldn’t stand up to the chicken, but did well with the citrus-flavored prawns.
And so it went. Australia’s shiraz didn’t work with anything. A red from Provence with a considerable percentage of grenache did fine.
“I discovered early on that tannins are, in general, the enemy,” commented Clemens, trying to sum up our taste adventure. “A robust red wine that’s austere, a Bordeaux blend or a cabernet sauvignon is likely to taste metallic with Indian food. On the other hand, red wines with rich or intense fruit and low levels of tannin often work well.”
His conclusions?
“Don’t overlook dry roses with Indian food.
“Fruity but still dry white wines can work, too. Some Rieslings start well, but they lack body and perhaps are too sweet. Gewurztraminer, which has plenty of body and a perfume all its own, does better.”
Sparkling wine is also suggested as a good choice with spicy food. After all, like beer, it is carbonated and served cold.
Asked for personal favorites, Clemens cited Gran Feudo, a Spanish rose from Julian Chivite that sells for about $7.99; two California sparklers, Domaine Carneros (about $22) and Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee (about $24); Pieropan Soave classico superiore (about $15), an Italian white; and Seghesio Sonoma County (red) zinfandel (about $12).
Here are two rather mild recipes from the Klay Oven kitchen. Prepare them, have friends, bring a variety of wines and do your own pairings.
MURG MAKHANI (BONELESS CHICKEN IN SPICY TOMATO SAUCE)
Six servings
1 cup plain yogurt
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon paprika
4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, cut into cubes
1 large onion, chopped (to yield 2 cups)
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 piece (2 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
6 cardamom pods, seeds only
8 cloves
2 teaspoons cumin seed
1 cinnamon stick
1 can (14 ounces) whole tomatoes, chopped and drained in a strainer
Salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon fenugreek*
1/2 cup light cream
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
* Available in specialty food markets.
1. In a medium bowl, combine the yogurt, salt and paprika. Add the chicken cubes, toss to coat them, cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
2. Using a hand grinder or food processor, combine the onion, garlic and ginger to form a paste. Set aside.
3. Melt the butter with the oil in a large skillet and add the onion paste. Simmer for 10 minutes over medium heat. Add the cardamom, cloves, cumin and cinnamon stick. Cook an additional 5 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes.
4. Line an oven broiler pan with aluminum foil and heat the broiler. Place the chicken cube mixture on the foil and broil until cooked through but still moist, about 6 minutes.
5. Add chicken cubes to the tomato sauce and simmer for 5 minutes. Season with salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Add the fenugreek and cream and cook 3 minutes more. Garnish with cilantro and serve.
BAINGAN PIAZ MASALA (SPICY EGGPLANT WITH TOMATOES)
Four servings
2 large eggplants
2 cloves garlic
1 piece (2 inches) fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 small, hot finger chili pepper
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small onion, sliced (to yield 1 cup)
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
2 medium tomatoes, sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro and additional sprigs for garnish
1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint
Salt to taste
1. Heat an oven to broil. Cook the eggplants, turning often, or until they are tender and the skin is charred, about 20 minutes. Peel and discard the skin and coarsely chop the eggplant. Set aside.
2. Using a hand grinder or a food processor, combine the garlic, ginger and chili pepper to form a paste. Set aside.
3. In a medium saute pan, heat the oil. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic paste. Reduce heat and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add turmeric and coriander and saute for 3 minutes. Add the reserved eggplant and cook for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook an additional 5 minutes. Add the cilantro and mint and stir for 2 minutes. Add salt to taste, then serve garnished with sprigs of cilantro.
