From prim buns to grandmotherly Barbara Bush coifs, gray once was a matronly mane. But with Baby Boomers passing the pluck-the-strays stage, it has become hip to go gray. Head-turners like model Carmen with her dramatic salt-and-pepper ‘do, and Good Housekeeping editor Ellen Levine with her long silver-white locks, have proven that gray can be glam.
And why fight Mother Nature? Gray hair is simply hair that has lost its pigmentation. (Most women genetically inherit the trait, although some go gray prematurely due to physical or emotional trauma.)
Chicago hair stylist Charles Ifergen recommends coloring the pale hairs until the gray has grown in significantly, beyond 5- to 10-percent gray. Beyond that, the decision to color or not to color is, well, a gray area.
“I always ask my clients, `Do you like it or do you hate it?” says Ifergen. “Since we’re living in a youth-oriented culture, it’s not the color we hate, but what it represents – aging.”
Gail Michel, 44, a home accessories buyer and model, first developed a gray streak in high school and went completely salt-and-pepper in her late 20s.
“I thought dyeing it would (make me) look like a different person. It’s part of my personality and the way I look,” she says.
Still, changes brought on by aging and graying often warrant a change in hair style. All mature women, gray or otherwise, experience hair loss. And gray hair usually has a different texture than the rest of the pigmented tresses, becoming either finer or more coarse.
Taking these variables into account, Ifergen often recommends a short haircut for those with significant gray. Women of color may be able to maintain a longer, flattering style. But since hair frames the face, a shorter style with movement can enliven the look. Hair that becomes more fine in the graying process can be volumized and be easier to manage when short. Coarse hair can be softened with texturizing scissors used at the ends, making it more manageable.
One cautionary styling note: Gray hair can develop a yellow cast with the buildup of pollution and heat from the sun, blow-drying and hot curlers. Shampoos with a blue tint will offset the stain.
Try Indola Grigio Shampoo (about $9) sold at salons, and Tresemme Changes Anti-Fatigue Shampoo and Conditioner (about $4) found in drugstores.
ALL THE RIGHT MAKEUP MOVES
“You lose (skin) color as you age,” says Darcy McGrath, a Chicago-based makeup artist. And gray hair can visually rob the face of color. Women of color may find their complexion also looks ashy. Cosmetics can counter the effect.
McGrath’s tips
— Try a light-reflecting foundation (Estee Lauder, Elizabeth Arden and Shu Uemera make these formulations) that bounces light away from facial lines, creating optical camouflage.
— Custom-blended foundations–try ones from Prescriptives or Elizabeth Arden–can accurately restore your skin shade.
— Use cream blush to create more youthful cheek color.
— Warm up eye area with browns in eye shadows and liners rather than trendy lilacs and metallics that accentuate under eye purples.
— Enhance an overall glow with lipsticks in berry or brown tones.
— Eyebrow colors should be soft and blended to be compatible to gray hair.
WHAT HUES TO CHOOSE
What clothing colors are most flattering to gray hair?
Model Gail Michel favors cool silver or green hues, primarily in accessories. Gray pearls and silver jewelry work well.
While some women with gray hair can successfully wear gold-tone jewelry and fabrics with a yellow cast, most should beware of the combination; it can result in brassy-looking hair and lackluster skin.
