Q–We live in a one-story ranch type house with double-hung wood windows that have been painted many times. We recently had the outside trim painted again and now several of our windows are so badly stuck shut with accumulated paint that we cannot get them open. This is especially true of the lower sashes. Most of the upper sashes can be freed up after prying and scraping with a stiff putty knife, but the lower sashes won’t budge at all. Any suggestions, short of calling in a carpenter?
A–Because all of the windows are on the first floor and therefore accessible from the outside, one of the simplest methods would be to use a small hatchet and a wood or plastic mallet to pry up the windows from the outside.
Start by scraping off as much of the caked-on paint as possible–on the inside as well as on the outside. Then force the blade of the hatchet under the bottom of the sash by tapping on the head of the hatchet with the mallet. Starting in the center, work back and forth from one side to the other, then pry the sash up as you feel it break free.
After the sash has been raised, use a scraper to remove as much paint as possible from the edges of the sash frame, as well as from the edges of the moldings on each side of the window frame.
Q–I have metal kitchen cabinets that I want to paint. However, there are a number of rust spots showing. Can I just paint over them with a rust-resistant paint?
A–First scrape off as much of the rust as possible, using a wire brush and medium-grade steel wool or sandpaper. At the same time, scrape off any paint that is loose or peeling around these rusty areas. Then coat all the rusty spots with a rust converter (sold in most paint stores and home centers). This will stabilize the rust and turn it into a good base for painting over. When this dries, paint with a metal primer, followed by two coats of a good, rust-resistant enamel.
Q–We removed a self-adhesive, contact-type paper from some cabinets, but it left a sticky residue that won’t come off despite repeated washings. What do you suggest?
A–Most home centers sell liquid adhesive removers for this purpose. Or you can use rubber cement thinner (sold at art supply stores). Paint thinner as well as dry cleaning fluid (preferably the nonflammable kind) can also be used. To play it safe, test the solvent on a small area first, allow it to soak and then rub hard with a rough cloth to make certain it doesn’t soften the finish.
Q–Our house has cedar shingles on the outside and we are considering replacing them with vinyl siding because we have been told that vinyl siding requires very little maintenance and provides better insulation. However, the shingles seem to be more suitable for the type and location of our house. Some of the shingles are beginning to rot and look like they will not provide the protection needed in the future. What do you advise?
A–Vinyl siding does require little or no maintenance, but it does not offer any additional insulation by itself. The insulation is a separate backing that usually comes with this siding. The “wrapping” used under the siding also offers added resistance against infiltration of cold air from outside.
Shingles do not “protect” the house; the building paper or felt under the shingles actually “protects” the house against the elements.
The bottom line is that if you prefer the appearance of the shingles, and are willing to accept the added maintenance this involves, your best bet would be to simply replace the shingles that are bad, then recoat all of the shingles with two coats of shingle stain. This stain should be reapplied every four to six years.
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Have a question about home repair problems? Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Your Place, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Questions of general interest will be answered in future columns. Sorry, letters cannot be answered personally.
