Amid all of the family photos on my desk, the one that gets me through the toughest days is of my husband and me with a group of strangers. We are on an 8 a.m. power walk–connected by nothing more than serenity and sweat–poised triumphantly on a cliff high above the Gulf of Mexico.
It is not, however, the vistas that provide inspiration. It is the journey back to life B.C. (before children).
For one shining week, 8 a.m. belonged to me. At that hour I am usually prodding pokey dressers, hunting for matching socks and negotiating breakfast (is it possible to stock more cereal than Kellogg’s and still not have the right one?).
To be sure, the one thing I am not usually doing is walking with my spouse against a backdrop of turquoise water, pristine beaches and lush tropical gardens in Huatulco, Mexico, a 45-minute flight south of Mexico City on the Pacific Coast.
Ever since Club Med shifted its focus at some clubs from the string thongs and Speedos of young singles to the doughy midriffs and dimpled thighs of the family market, it has become the solution for parents who want to vacation with their kids–but are also desperate for some time to themselves.
Is such a hybrid possible? Absolutely. Is it worth the hefty tab? Every penny.
Besides the blissful morning walk, we went kayaking, snorkeling and took aerobics classes. We dined splendidly–on adult food and conversation. But the real indulgence was spending hours poolside with a couple of bestsellers. Reading is the first casualty of parenthood (OK, maybe the second), but relieved of the “Hey-Mom-watch-me-do-a-jackknife-off-the-board” every 30 seconds, I turned into a regular Evelyn Wood graduate.
At night we retired to our own room. In short, the tanks filled up again.
All of this is possible because kids are in age-appropriate groups, with activities far more creative than the usual coloring-and-video formula. Our 9-year-old daughter tried everything from the trapeze to tie-dyeing. For our 17-year-old son–who is at the age where our very existence is a source of humiliation to him–sports were the big draw. He came away with a more powerful backhand, a volleyball ribbon and an invitation to visit California.
The element that makes this all possible are the G.O.s (Club Med-speak for Gentil Organisateurs), who have an uncanny knack for being everywhere at once. The G.O. who leads water aerobics may also be the same one who refs the basketball game, mingles during cocktail hour and presides over the 10 p.m. talent contest.
There was no more ubiquitous presence than MoMo, the chief of the village. This charming Moroccan played the part of the laid-back camp counselor to the hilt, but underneath the floral shirt beat the heart of a savvy businessman. Using a motorcycle to shuttle from one end of this 50-acre resort to the other, MoMo knew how to schmooze guests (in six languages, no less) and make sure everyone was having a good time.
When my son turned to me and said, “Mom, this was the best vacation we’ve ever taken,” I almost fell out of my seat–especially since the rooms at Club Med are totally phone- and TV-free.
We felt the same way–not only because of the solitude, but because of the ease. “There are no driving or parking hassles, no restaurant decisions, no lines to wait in–which can be really stressful for everybody, especially kids,” said Robin Diamond of Northbrook, who was also in Huatulco with her 8-year-old and 11-year-old twins. “Everyone got the vacation they wanted.”
Still, it pays to do your homework. Here are five things you should know before booking reservations:
1. The club takes precedence over the map.
Don’t get too hung up on Cancun versus Caravelle (Guadeloupe); it’s far more important to find a club that caters to your particular needs. That means if you’re a honeymooner, you don’t want to end up in Sandpiper (Port St. Lucie, Fla.) where the Baby Club means a preponderance of diaper bags and strollers.
The same is true of special interests. Huatulco featured 10 tennis courts, skillful pros and well-run tournaments; but if you need your serve videotaped, then you want Paradise Island, Bahamas, where there is an intensive tennis program. Scuba diving? Available at almost every club, but to become certified, head to Columbus Isle (also in the Bahamas). Horseback riding, too, is another Club Med staple. But if jumping and dressage are in your vocabulary, then consider Sonora Bay or Playa Blanca, Mexico.
2. Use the kids clubhouses judiciously.
Children can be kept busy until 9 p.m., with a full slate of activities that can start with archery and end with an evening campfire. Even at meal times, kids are in their special dining areas with foods that appeal to their tastes, surrounded by their new friends. Without exception, we found the staffing more than adequate (the kid/counselor ratio was 5 to 1 for mini-clubbers, ages 4 to 7) and the facilities impeccable.
Yet, kids–like parents–can get their circuits overloaded. So be alert for the afternoon when they may want nothing more than to just hang out at the pool with Mom and Dad. The best strategy–especially for the younger set–is to check in every few hours to make sure they aren’t missing you.
With adolescents, of course, disregard the above advice. If given a choice between you and their peers, there’s no contest. But with everything located on the grounds, it’s easy to head off to bed, while your teen heads to the disco. Pattie Pearson was traveling with her 15-year-old daughter and 12-year-old son, both of whom had later-than-usual curfews. “They were safe and happy,” said the Downers Grove teacher. “We all felt a sense of freedom.”
3. You don’t have to be a “joiner.”
Club Med is defined as camp for adults, but don’t be afraid that some overzealous G.O. will pull you out of a hammock for a game of volleyball. The truth is, you can be as active or as lazy as you choose.
However, even the most sedentary types should take a crack at the activities–especially since it’s all included in the price. When wind-surfing is just a few feet from your chaise–complete with equipment and patient instructors–why not?
The laid-back nature also invites participation. If you show up at a softball game in the sixth inning, someone will probably hand you a glove and point to the outfield. “There are enough rules and schedules in everyday life,” said one G.O. “You don’t need them on vacation too.” Amen.
As for meal times, with five dining rooms to choose from, you will have no trouble arranging a tete-a-tete, but we found the main dining room–where guests sit together, family style–to be a lot more fun. At one meal, our dining companions included a railroad executive from Calgary, a ballet instructor from San Francisco and an U.N. translator from New York. “As a single parent, it was particularly comfortable,” said Pearson. “My kids could eat and run while I could dine.”
4. Don’t expect luxury accommodations.
The Club Med brochures refer to the lodging as “simple and functional,” and you can take them at their word. That means rooms are clean, beds are comfortable, towels are plentiful. But if it’s not a vacation without wall-to-wall carpeting, a color TV and an in-room mini-bar, you’re going to be disappointed.
Most guests spend such little time in their rooms that the spartan decor is a non-issue. However, some clubs have gone more upscale in recent years and are classified as “Club Med’s Finest.” Paradise Island (Bahamas) recently underwent a $15 million renovation and now features such modern-day conveniences as queen-size beds, TVs, phones, marble baths and built-in hair dryers.
To me, though, a week without squabbles over the remote control was a greater luxury than all of the above. So is the fact that–at least in Huatulco–living quarters are so cramped that kids (depending on their age) get their own adjacent room, which added immeasurably to our quality of life.
5. There are ways to get more bang for your buck.
Even though everything is included–right down to beer and wine at meals–Club Med is not for the budget traveler. For example, a week in Huatulco (land and air from Chicago) through mid-December is $1,253 per adult, double occupancy, and $1,120 for teens (ages 12-17) and $887 children (ages 6-11) double occupancy in an adjacent room (single children have the option of bunking with their parents or will be matched in a separate room with another child).
But if you are flexible about when and where you go, it is possible to stretch your vacation dollar just a little more.
For example, one option is the “Family Escape” program, perfect for those with a sense of adventure. For a weekly flat fee ($1,599 for one parent and a child) vacationers choose their date of travel and Club Med chooses the village, which is suited to their lifestyle. The program is available only with a departure from New York.
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For information on any Club Med destination, call your travel agent or 800-Club-Med.
