Cooking, to the sorrow of those who do it well, is the most ephemeral of the arts. A dish–or a meal–is created over hours or days, then eaten in a matter of minutes. Even if photographs are taken, the evidence of greatness–smell, texture, taste–has disappeared. Perhaps that is one reason chefs often step into obscurity when they step away from the stove.
That is definitely not the case with Pierre Franey, the chef, author and television personality who died last October and will be remembered at a memorial tribute at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel here on Oct. 27.
A great French chef who chose to live and work in the United States, he showed a rare flexibility during his long career, moving from the kitchens of Le Pavillon, New York City’s most famous restaurant, to the kitchens of Howard Johnson to do research and development work in the 1950s, starting the “60 Minute Gourmet” column in the New York Times in the ’70s, and creating five PBS series in the late ’80s and ’90s.
Unlike stereotypical chefs, Franey was kind and generous, a man of simple tastes and the leader of New York’s French culinary community. Fortunately, shortly before his death, he finished “Pierre Franey Cooks With His Friends” (Artisan, $30), based on the PBS series “Pierre Franey’s Cooking in Europe.” It is available in bookstores.
I have chosen two recipes. The first shows the chef’s continual evolution, in this case using his skills to make healthful food that tastes delicious. The second reflects his love of seafood and the fishing and cooking he did in East Hampton, Long Island, where he had a home.
LIGHT MEATBALLS WITH YOGURT SAUCE
Four servings
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1 pound lean ground turkey or chicken, or a blend of the two
1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
1/2 cup low-fat (2 percent) milk
1 large egg
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup fresh or canned chicken broth
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt, drained
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill
1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a small skillet, then add the onion. Cook, stirring, over low heat until wilted. Let cool.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the turkey or chicken, onion, bread crumbs, milk, egg, salt, pepper, nutmeg and allspice. Blend well with your hands.
3. Shape the mixture into 28 or more meatballs, each 1 1/2 inches in diameter.
4. Heat the remaining tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat in a large non-stick skillet. Add the meatballs several at a time, and cook, turning carefully with a spatula so they brown evenly, for about 10 minutes. When done, transfer to a warm platter.
5. Pour off most of the fat from the skillet and add the flour. Blend well with a wire whisk, then add the chicken broth. Bring to a boil, stirring, and cook for about 1 minute. Add the yogurt and cook for 1 minute more. Check for seasoning, then return the meatballs to the skillet. Bring to a simmer to reheat. Transfer to a serving platter, sprinkle with the dill and serve.
SEAFOOD SALAD
Four to six servings
2 pounds mussels, well scrubbed and beards removed
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1 pint sea or bay scallops
1/2 pound raw medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/2 pound snow peas, trimmed and strings removed
1 ripe, unblemished mango (about 1/2 pound)
1 small head Chinese (napa) cabbage
1 bunch red leaf lettuce
1/2 cup chopped scallions
Ginger vinaigrette (recipe follows)
1/3 cup finely chopped herbs, such as parsley, chives and tarragon
1. Place the mussels in a large pot and add the thyme, bay leaf and vinegar. Cover, bring to a boil over high heat, and cook 3 minutes or until the mussels are opened. Remove from the heat.
2. Drain the mussels, reserving the cooking liquid. Discard any mussels that have not opened. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. There should be 1/2 cup.
3. Pour the mussel liquid into a clean saucepan and add the scallops. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer about 1 minute. Add the shrimp, salt and pepper. Cook about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and drain. Let cool.
4. Meanwhile, remove the mussels from their shells.
5. Place the snow peas in a saucepan; add cold water to cover and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat and simmer about 2 minutes. Drain.
6. Peel the mango, then carefully cut away the flesh from the pit. Cut the flesh into slices or 1/2-inch cubes.
7. Cut the cabbage and lettuce into thin shreds.
8. In a bowl, combine the cabbage, lettuce, mango, snow peas and scallions. Add 1/4 cup of the vinaigrette and toss to blend.
9. Divide the tossed mixture among 4 large serving plates, piling up neatly. Arrange the mussels, scallops and shrimp neatly over all. Pour more vinaigrette over, sprinkle with herbs and serve.
GINGER VINAIGRETTE
In a bowl, combine 1/4 cup chopped red bell pepper; 2 tablespoons each chopped shallots, cilantro, red wine vinegar; 1 tablespoon each Dijon mustard and grated ginger; garlic; Tabasco; salt and pepper to taste. Whisk in 1/4 cup olive or corn oil.
