The only time I ever canceled a food order was when I was sitting in a trattoria in Rome, having just ordered pasta and an assortment of grilled fish. As I waited, the man sitting next to me was delivered a huge bowl of glistening mussels, tan meat peeking out amid ebony shells. I got the waiter’s attention and, in my pathetic Italian (I actually used the word for “mosquitoes” rather than the one for “mussels”), changed my order.
I wasn’t sorry. There are few pleasures greater than diving into a bowl of mussels up to your wrists and popping those delicious morsels into your mouth. And when the last mussel is gone, there’s the broth, waiting to be soaked up by crusty bread. Steamed mussels are a simple luxury–and all it takes is about 20 minutes of preparation and cooking time.
There are, however, a couple of caveats. Although mussels have never been consistent–there’s always the risk of a batch filled with grit–at least they used to be cheap: less than $1 a pound. Now they run closer to $2 a pound, and sometimes far higher. Buying really good-quality mussels is more important than ever. Stay with a local retailer of farm-raised or wild mussels with whom you have had good experience.
STEAMED MUSSELS WITH BLACK BEAN SAUCE
Preparation time: 35 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Yield: 6 appetizer servings
1 bunch green onions, trimmed
1/2 cup dry sherry
6 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons fermented
Chinese black beans, rinsed, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons each: minced fresh ginger, reduced-sodium soy sauce
1 tablespoon peanut oil
4 pounds large mussels, debearded, well washed
1. Slice half of the green onions into 1-inch lengths. Mince remaining onions and set aside for garnish.
2. Combine sliced onions, sherry, garlic, black beans, ginger, soy sauce and oil in a large pot. Heat to a boil over high heat.
3. Add mussels, cover and steam 2 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally. Begin checking mussels; as they open, transfer them to 6 large soup bowls. Total steaming time will be about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels.
4. Pour mussel broth, along with onions, garlic, beans and ginger, over mussels, leaving behind any grit in the bottom of the pot. Garnish with reserved minced onions.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……. 105 Fat ………… 4 g Cholesterol .. 40 mg
Sodium …… 485 mg Carbohydrates .. 5 g Protein …..,. 12 g
BASIC STEAMED MUSSELS
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 12 minutes
Yield: 6 appetizer servings
1 cup dry white wine
4 sprigs fresh parsley
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 bay leaf
4 pounds mussels, debearded, well washed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chervil or tarragon
1/2 loaf crusty bread
1. Combine wine, parsley, garlic, oil and bay leaf in a large pot. Heat to a boil over high heat.
2. Add mussels, cover and steam for 2 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally. Begin checking mussels; as they open, transfer them to 6 large soup bowls. Total steaming time will be about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels.
3. Strain mussel broth through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth into a small saucepan. Heat broth to a boil over high heat and boil 2 minutes. Pour broth over mussels and garnish with chervil (or tarragon). Serve with bread for sopping up broth.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……. 205 Fat …………. 4 g Cholesterol .. 40 mg
Sodium …… 410 mg Carbohydrates .. 25 g Protein ……. 15 g
LINGUINE WITH TOMATO-MUSSEL SAUCE
Preparation time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 35 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
1 cup dry white wine
4 sprigs each: fresh parsley, basil
1/2 cup each: coarsely chopped fresh parsley, basil
4 pounds large mussels, debearded, well washed
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper, or to taste
3 to 4 large vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded, chopped
1/2 teaspoon each, plus more to taste: salt, freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dried linguine or spaghetti
1. Combine wine, parsley and basil sprigs in a large pot. Heat to a boil over high heat. Add mussels, cover and steam 2 minutes, shaking the pot occasionally. Begin checking mussels; as they open, transfer them to a large bowl. Total steaming time will be about 5 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels.
2. Strain mussel broth through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth; measure out 1 1/2 cups and set aside. (Freeze any remaining broth for another use.) When cool enough to handle, pick mussels from their shells. Refrigerate, discarding shells.
3. Combine oil, garlic and crushed red pepper in a large skillet. Heat over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/2 teaspoon pepper and reserved broth. Increase heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes form a thick sauce, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, heat large pot of salted water to a boil for pasta. Shortly before sauce has finished cooking, add reserved mussels and cook just until heated through. Cook pasta until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain pasta and place in a large bowl. Add sauce, remaining 1/2 cup each of parsley and basil, and toss. Adjust seasoning.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……. 610 Fat ………….. 8 g Cholesterol .. 65 mg
Sodium …… 905 mg Carbohydrates .. 100 g Protein ……. 33 g
