Q–My apartment was painted more than three years ago so most of the paint is still in excellent condition. However, accidental banging or scraping has chipped off some paint at several places, including where two walls meet at an outside corner and along the edges on some of the baseboards and other wood trim. Because the new paint is off-white and the old color was dark green, these tiny chip marks are quite noticeable. I have some of the original paint left over. Can you offer any suggestions on how I can touch up the marks so they will be hardly noticeable?
A–One “trick” I have often used for such touch-ups is to use an ordinary disposable cotton swab, rather than a small paint brush. This always works better with flat or low-luster paint finishes than it does with glossy paints.
Instead of dipping the swab into the paint can–which results in picking up too much paint–use the inside of the can’s lid as a sort of palette after the can is opened. Touch the swab to the paint on the inside of the lid, then roll the cotton over the bare metal area to remove the excess. Touch it lightly to the chipped corner and then “roll on” a light coat of paint by turning the swab over the area. If done carefully with a light touch, the touchup will be scarcely noticeable.
Q–We have a half-bathroom on the first floor of our house (no tub or shower) and we notice a foul-smelling odor in that room at times. I have scrubbed, washed with bleach, etc., but all to no avail. Can you offer any help?
A–It sounds as though the smell is coming through or from the toilet bowl. One possibility is that the toilet is not vented properly, or that the vent line is clogged. A more likely possibility is that the built-in trap inside the bowl is not retaining enough water to keep sewer odors out, or that there is a poor seal under the toilet where it sits on the floor (the wax seal may be leaking or distorted, or the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor may not be tight).
I believe a plumber should be called in to remove and inspect the wax seal under the bowl, as well as to make certain the vent line is clear.
Q–I bought some wicker furniture that I plan to leave outside all the time. Should I use some type of sealer on this furniture to protect it from the weather?
A–Although wicker actually needs no protection from dampness and sun, it will look better and stay cleaner if it is protected with two coats of a clear, waterproof varnish. Make sure the wicker is perfectly clean and dry, then spray with a top-quality outdoor varnish, preferably one that has an alkyd, phenolic resin, or tung oil base, rather than a polyurethane base. Do not use a spar varnish because it will dry to a relatively soft, flexible finish that may cause a problem when people sit on it. Two coats probably will be required.
Q–Our old house has a brick chimney that passes down through the kitchen. This brick has been covered with plaster since the house was built, and has been painted several times. I would like to remove the plaster and expose the original brick in the kitchen, but I’ve been told that exposing the brick could cause some structural damage. What do you think?
A–The only reason I can think of why the brick was plastered over would be for appearance–that is, to hide the brick. Because plaster alone has little or no structural function (it is purely cosmetic), removing it cannot possibly do any structural damage (unless you damage the brick in the process). However, it is possible that the brick may be look messy or unattractive once it is exposed.
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Have a question about home repair problems? Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Your Place, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Questions of general interest will be answered in future columns. Sorry, letters cannot be answered personally.
