Clothing has long reflected the political, economic and social goings-on of a country during a particular period. But certain items were made with so much attention to detail and beauty that they are considered art.
Valerie Steele, chief curator at The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, which owns 50,000 costumes and accessories and 30,000 textiles, says even modern garments such as hot pants, Levis and platform shoes have historic and artistic merit.
There’s new-found interest in collecting both old and new clothing, inspired by successful auctions of celebrity dresses, such as those belonging to Princess Diana.
What to look for
Good condition means no rust stains, dry rot, discoloration or seam splitting, says Linda Donahue of William Doyle Galleries auctioneers in New York.
A known label adds value and could double or triple the price, particularly when it’s a couture outfit from a well-known designer like Chanel or Dior, says Gene London, who owns the New York vintage boutique The Fan Club. But Steele warns that unscrupulous dealers sometimes sew in better labels, Steele says
A lowered or raised hem that can be changed back matters less than a permanent alteration, says Richard Martin, curator of the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
In her book, “The Collector’s Book of Fashion” (Crown Publisher’s, out of print), Frances Kennett suggests collecting examples that reflect a decade’s most famous styles or designers. Undergarments, feather stoles and fringed shawls were particularly exquisite at the turn of the century; the 1930s came to be known for new synthetic fabrics; the ’50s, for ready-to-wear; the ’70s, for ethnic looks.
What to avoid
Martin advises bypassing very worn garments, such as furs that have dried out or beaded dresses that have deteriorated, because their condition won’t improve. Children’s clothes also aren’t likely to escalate in value because styles were less subject to the vagaries of fashion.
Forecast
Price changes hinge on several factors, Donahue says: a designer’s popularity (Halston clothes are now sought after), laws of supply and demand, and the beauty of a specific item, which may make it escalate even without a fancy label. It’s always best to buy the best dress possible because inferior designs by a well-known name won’t necessarily hold value, Donahue says.
The most competitive period may be the 1920s when such designers as Fortuny worked, says Richard Nelson, director of furniture and decorative arts at Sotheby’s Midwest. A 1925 Russian-inspired Chanel cape recently sold for $55,000 at a Paris auction house.
Dresses by American designer Charles James, who worked from the 1950s into the ’70s, now average $20,000 to $25,000 because of their sculptural lines and their popularity as a collectible, Martin says. A James dress sold in 1996 for $49,450 at William Doyle. An Yves Saint Laurent strapless, short evening dress of silk organza sold at a Doyle auction last year for $8,625.
Items that were more plentiful are often more affordable, such as christening dresses from the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, which run from $120 to $250, and Victorian clothing, particularly wedding dresses, which sell for $300 to $500 if American-made, London says.
Handle with care
To eliminate dust, vacuuming proves safer than cleaning, Kennett writes. But if cleaning is necessary, dry clean or hand wash once a small area of the fabric is tested to see if the colors run or if the fabric shrinks.
There are two schools of thought regarding proper storage of vintage clothing, says Nancy Buenger, costume and textile conservator at the Chicago Historical Society. One says it’s fine to hang a dress on a padded hangar as long as it’s not too heavy or made of stretch fabric. It also should be covered with acid-free tissue paper rather than a plastic bag.
Others recommend laying garments flat, particularly beaded dresses or ones cut on the bias, and wrapping them in sausagelike rolls so no tears develop along crease lines. Then they should be covered with acid-free tissue paper and placed in an archival box.
Which ever method is followed, garments should be placed in a room where there’s airflow and where they won’t be subject to mildew or great swings in temperature.
To learn more
The best book on this subject, according to many experts, is “Couture, The Great Designers” by Caroline Rennolds Milbank (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $90).
Sources
The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London have collections with more than 65,000 garments. The Chicago Historical Society has a collection of more than 50,000 American costumes from the 18th Century to the present. The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York also has 50,000 costumes and accessories.
In addition to auctions, garments can be found at resale shops, flea markets and estate sales.
