Q–When hanging wallpaper I am confused as to how I should hang the strip next to and over the door frame. Some tell me that I should slit the strip lengthwise to the width needed to fit up against the vertical side of the door frame, then finish by using the rest of the strip to go between the top of the frame and the ceiling. However, others tell me to hang the full width of the strip so that it overlaps the side of the frame, then cut diagonally in from the corner as one does when fitting around a window frame. Which method do you think is better?
A–The second method will result in a neater job because you do not create a new seam over or alongside the door frame. Hang the full-width strip against the wall and let it overlap the door frame as though it were not there. Then use scissors or a razor blade to cut diagonally up from the corner as shown in the drawing in order to permit flattening the top part of the strip against the wall above the door. Crease into place along the side and top of the door frame, then trim off excess with a razor and smooth the paper down against the molding edge with a seam roller.
Q–I am trying to remove some round, non-skid disks about five inches in diameter that are stuck to the bottom of my bathtub. I have tried lighter fluid, but this has not worked. Can you help me?
A–Your best bet is to heat these decals with a hair dryer, heat gun (set on low) or with a heat lamp of some kind. This will soften the adhesive on the back so that you will be able to peel the “stick-ons” off more easily. If any of the sticky residue remains on the tub, you can wipe it off with one of the liquid adhesive removers that are sold in many hardware stores and home centers.
Q–My family room has pine paneling that was originally varnished and is now painted. I find that about two years after it was painted the tongue-and-groove boards have shrunk and there is a dark, narrow space showing between the boards. Can I fill these dark spaces with spackling compound or some type of calking and then paint over them?
A–Spackling compound probably would not last because it is too brittle and will crack out. Silicone calking does remain semiflexible after it has cured, so it may stand up better–but only if the crack is fairly narrow. However, if you want to paint over the silicone you must be sure to use a brand that is paintable (not all can be painted). Even then, chances are it won’t last for very long. Your only permanent solution is to take the boards down and replace them properly.
Q–My house has exterior redwood siding that was painted by the previous owner. I would like to get back to the natural redwood color and then stain the wood. I know all of the old paint must be removed first, but am not sure how to go about it. One painter suggested having it professionally washed off with a pressure sprayer, but I’m reluctant. Can I use a chemical remover to take the paint off myself?
A–Removing paint with a high-pressure washer works best if the paint is badly weathered and already starting to peel. Even then the high-pressure stream of water can harm siding, trim or windows if not carefully handled. Yes, you can remove the paint yourself with a chemical paint remover. Use a semipaste, water-wash remover that will enable you to take the softened paint off by scraping and washing it off with an ordinary hose. This will work, but it is a time-consuming, tedious job that will involve lots of ladder climbing and considerable expense for many gallons of remover.
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Have a question about home repair problems? Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Your Place, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Questions of general interest will be answered in future columns. Sorry, letters cannot be answered personally.
