Like hemlines and hairstyles, walks on the fashion runways go in and out of style. One year, it’s Naomi Campbell’s disc-slipping strut; next it’s Shalom Harlow’s sinewy slink.
“I used to say (German model) Nadja (Auermann) was the only one for the runway,” says fashion photographer Francesco Scavullo. “But a lot of these new girls are so talented.”
Indeed, the larger-than-life superstruts of the ’80s supermodels — Campbell, Auermann, Karen Mulder, Cindy Crawford — seem out of place on the catwalks of the pared-down ’90s.
“Everything is changing,” says 17-year-old newcomer Sunniva, a willowy redhead who made her debut on New York runways during the recent shows. “The walks are getting more natural.”
Kate Moss has a runway walk neophyte models covet. Natural, one says. Not like she’s posing, another adds.
Here we present the walk, deconstructed.
Clothes look best on a hanger, yes? So make your shoulders hangerlike. That means pulled back and held still. Moving the shoulders around while you walk, says model Susan Robison, “looks sloppy.”
Let arms swing naturally at the elbows, but keep movement controlled — too much flailing detracts from the clothing. If a pocket is handy and the clothes are sporty, use them.
Holding the head high and keeping it still and straight lessen the chance of a bad photo. But some, including Argentinian model Ines, “like to look around a bit. Then I think these people are probably saying, `What is she looking at?’ “
Letting the chin drop ever so slightly makes the eyes seem bigger and more expressive (and avoids those unflattering up-the-nostrils shots). But, explains mannequin Tricia Helfer, “If you look too far down, the light’s going to cast shadows and you’ll look tired.”
Jutting the head ever so slightly forward will lengthen the neck visually, producing that long, graceful, Audrey Hepburn look.
It also turns out your mother was right: Good posture counts. So keep the back straight, “not slouchy, which is what you always do when you’re not on the runway,” instructs Carolyn Murphy. Not ramrod straight, though. “You have to walk like a cat,” explains Florida-born model Trish Goff. So arch the back just slightly.
Thrusting the pelvis forward gives a flirtatious air of insouciance. “You sort of lean back and bring the pelvis forward and slump into it,” says Murphy.
Swing your hips, sure, but don’t slip a disc. Swaying hips look attractive and womanly (even if some of the models are just 14 years old) and gives some movement to the clothes.
Long strides look more graceful and confident than short, mincing steps. Also, learn to move in absurdly high heels. How? Practice, practice, practice.
With each step, one foot should be placed in an exaggerated way in front of the other, says Robison. This helps models walk in a straight line and adds that “prancing” quality runway watchers admire. For more movement (to add swish to a dress, for example), each foot should actually cross over the other.
SECRETS OF THE STRUT INCLUDE LOOKING ALIVE, SORT OF
– Unleash the hips. If you should find yourself on the catwalk in a skirt that’s too tight for those super-long supermodel steps, “you have to really swing your hips to make it look like you’re getting somewhere, even though you’re not,” advises veteran model Tricia Helfer.
– Look alive, but not too alive. To make it down the runway with that sexy, mesmerized look, dwell on light-hearted thoughts: “I think, `I’m happy. I’ve been shopping and I bought a new dress,’ ” says Kylie Bax. And learn to affect an ambiguous gaze. “I try to look like I’m looking nowhere,” explains Argentinian model Ines.
– Practice the Mona Lisa smile. These days, super-pouts and super-sneers are out (though full lips remain very much in). Most designers don’t want megawatt grins, either. The best bet? An ever-so-slight and secretive smile. “I smile all the time,” says the twinkly-eyed Bax. “Just not with teeth.”
– Listen to the music. And obey. “You’d be amazed how many models are deaf to music,” says In Style magazine editor Hal Rubenstein. “But if I’m listening to music and they’re walking to something completely different, it’s jarring.” Who’s not tune deaf? “Shalom and Naomi handle music better than anyone.”
– Know the show. “If it’s a fun show, you put more energy in your walk,” says Stella Tennant. What’s a fun show? Loopy clothes and thumping music — think Todd Oldham or Betsey Johnson — are dead giveaways. There are serious shows — Calvin Klein and Donna Karan — and refined ones. “For Oscar (de la Renta), I try to be more elegant,” says Ines. And, of course, the designer has the final word: “They’ll tell you `be strong’ or `be sexy’ or `no smiles,’ ” says Carolyn Murphy.
If it all sounds daunting, listen to a novice, 19-year-old Susan Robison: “Once you get in beautiful clothes and your hair and makeup are done and you hear the music, it’s just natural to switch into a different style of walk.”
So who has a walk that pleases seasoned fashion veterans — designers, editors and photographers? Shalom Harlow. “She always reminds me of a racehorse,” says Vogue editor Anna Wintour.
