Like miners picking the dirt off newly discovered diamonds, we carefully removed the broken pieces of shell from the cool meat. Each bite of the sweet, succulent stone crab claw was artfully complemented by the mustard sauce, spicy pepper crab cakes and crunchy shoestring fries.
We sat bathed in the light of the mid-afternoon January sun, the ocean breezes caressing our skin, entranced by the statuesque palm trees and the lapping of the waves as they broke on the wide stretch of Miami Beach’s South Beach.
It was hard to believe that several hours ago, we were still in the cruel grip of an Ohio winter, worrying about slippery roads and fuel line freeze-up.
There on the serpentine paved walkway near the beach, our only concern was how much sunscreen to slather on.
That, and the quality of wheelchair access. Heidi has a disability that requires her to use crutches or a wheelchair for mobility. We soon discovered that many of South Beach’s tony boutiques and trendy eateries are barrier-free. Even many of the Art Deco hotels–properties built decades before the advent of disability access–have out-of-the-way, inconspicuous but well-made ramps to the main entrances.
We finished our feast from Joe’s Stone Crab and headed out for a stroll. What we could see of the beach from the paved, level walkway was impressive–clean, shimmering sand dotted here and there with sunbathers on brightly colored towels.
We didn’t see any wooden boardwalks or paths that would allow a wheelchair user to move unhindered from the paved walkway directly to the surf’s edge. We did, however, find a “wheelchair access” sign indicating where the sand was tightly packed down on the dune near the start of the beach.
This entrance point combined with “Steve power” to propel her and the wheelchair across the sand enabled Heidi to make it down to the screeching sea gulls and crashing waves.
In-line skaters zipped past now and then, along with the occasional cyclist or beautiful young woman with long legs, clad in hipster black–possibly a fashion model or at least a wannabe hoping for that big break.
South Beach got its big break in the ’80s with the revitalization of the Art Deco District. Dozens of Art Deco hotels, once faded and run down, were made over like aging starlets ready for a big comeback. Until then, the once-glorious hotels had become seedy housing for retirees who hid in their rooms from criminals and lowlifes.
The neighborhood seemed destined for demolition, with sterile high rises scheduled to replace the dilapidated Deco buildings. Thanks to the dedication of Barbara Baer Capitman, founder of the Miami Design Preservation League, a square-mile area of South Beach was added to the National Registry of Historic Places. The buildings were saved, and the renaissance of South Beach began. With the renovation of the properties came chic new bistros, bars, upscale shops and modeling agencies. South Beach was soon the place to be–America’s Riviera, as it were.
By day, the Deco District hotels are charming, whimsical, inviting with their gorgeous pastel pinks, blues, greens, yellows and purples enhanced by the brilliant south Florida sun. By night, with neon glowing, they inspire awe and amazement, conjuring up images of an earlier era of cigarette girls in black seamed stockings and men in white dinner jackets sitting at mahogany bars with as much brass as the big band playing in the lounge.
The swing bands are gone now, but the magic of the night remains. During our first evening of exploration, we wandered among the crowds of cafegoers, catching scents of expensive perfumes and spicy Cuban food.
Some people strutted by in eye-catching designer threads, others in blue jeans and T-shirts. One cafe might be playing Latin music, the next blasting classic rock tunes.
Nearly all of the cafes have some tables set out for sidewalk dining. This is especially convenient for wheelchair users who can be seated at a table without concern for steps or crowded, narrow inside rooms.
Needing a break from the crowds, we crossed Ocean Drive and headed back to the walkway along the beach. When we stopped to look back toward the strip, the view was stunning. There seemed to be a never-ending row of sleek, streamlined Deco hotels, some bathed in shades of hot pink neon, some in cool sapphire blue, others in lemon yellows and lime greens. Palm trees formed silhouettes before them, gently bending in the ocean breeze.
Both during the day and late into the night, we felt safe in South Beach, despite the media depictions of Miami’s crime and drug problems. The constant presence of people and the excellent upkeep and cleanliness of the area were reassuring. It’s advisable, however, to stay in a hotel no farther north than 14th Street and no farther west than Washington Avenue. There are Deco properties beyond these parameters, but the neighborhoods look a little rough around the edges in spots.
We visited the Art Deco Welcome Center, a small shop selling postcards and Deco knickknacks from which walking tours begin. The center is accessible, but we had concerns that the tour might take us to sights that Heidi and her wheelchair couldn’t access. The guide assured us that virtually all of the stops were accessible.
We opted for the tour and were very glad we did. We spent the next 90 minutes weaving up and down streets with decent curb-cuts while our guide lectured on the neighborhood’s history and pointed out building features. She explained how a hurricane in 1926 flattened most of Miami Beach and paved the way for architects to design Deco masterpieces that incorporated tropical features, such as suns and flamingos, into the ornamentation.
The tour brought Art Deco alive for us as we saw dozens of examples of classic corner entrances, Egyptian-style finials and glass block windows. We entered the lobby of the Essex House and studied the hotel’s complex design of terrazzo flooring. Built by renown Deco architect Henry Hohauser, the Essex is a good example of Tropical Deco. Egyptian hieroglyphics decorate a banister in one area, etched windows draw attention to another.
Later in the tour, we went into the Park Central Hotel. Our guide pointed out a balconylike landing above the lobby, which had years ago made the property a favorite of gangsters. Their goons could keep an eye out above while the bosses socialized in the beautiful lobby below.
The hotels we entered had ramps. Sometimes it took us a little longer to get into the lobbies because using the ramp required us to cover more ground than just hopping up the front steps. But the guide was good about pointing out the accessible entrances and waiting until we rejoined the group before she resumed her talk. She also asked the others to step aside if they were blocking Heidi’s view.
After the tour we sat at the News Cafe (which, the summer after our visit, would gain fame as Gianni Versace’s last stop before his murder), one of the many sidewalk eateries dotting Ocean Drive. We savored our dessert and coffee and people-watched.
We saw all types, but on a warm Thursday night, the crowds cruising were mostly young and hip. There were groups of friends going clubbing and couples out for a dinner and stroll. What a perfect place for a romantic evening–the ocean nearby and the waving palm trees, the gorgeous Deco hotels with candlelit dining, music of all varieties floating in the air. The area was pulsating with electricity.
With the neighborhood’s “Hey, look at me” feel and trendy tendencies, we feared that the local eateries would be all sizzle and no steak. Surprisingly, many of the restaurants are quite good, the cuisine as delightful as the carefree, tropical ambience.
By day, the atmosphere is more subdued. We explored Ocean Drive and Collins and Washington Avenues, all parallel to each other and the coast. Within a dozen square blocks or so visitors have access to many gorgeous hotels, restaurants of all types and price ranges, upscale designer boutiques and vintage clothing shops, as well as neighborhood groceries and newsstands.
One can eat, shop and recreate on or off the beach without having to cover much ground. On the main drags, the curb-cuts were plentiful and in good shape. The majority of businesses had wheelchair-friendly level entrances.
Our first night was at the Avalon and Majestic Hotel, a small but lovely Deco property with an ocean view. The desk staff was friendly and personable, giving service with a personal touch. The building has been remodeled but the bygone era charm remains. Ceiling fans hung along the hall outside our room, which still used a key instead of a plastic card to open the door.
Our room was tiny but clean, and the free continental serve-yourself breakfast was satisfying and tasty. Because Heidi can walk short distances, she was able to get out of her wheelchair and walk around the room and into the bathroom. For travelers who cannot walk, the room and especially the bathroom would not be doable because there’s simply not enough room to maneuver a wheelchair.
As for location, the Avalon is right in the heart of Deco District action. Only a 15-minute cab ride to the Port of Miami, it’s a perfect place to stay just before or after a cruise.
The other hotel we stayed at–or were supposed to have stayed at–was the Kent. The Kent is one of the hotels owned by Chris Blackwell, founder of Island Records.
We were impressed by the Kent’s beautiful lobby, but our hearts sank when the young woman at the front desk explained that the room they’d booked for us was still occupied and the guests were nowhere to be found.
We considered suggesting they forcibly enter and remove the guests’ belongings, but the woman was bending over backward to accommodate. She said they could put us up in another property called the Casa Grande. She saw the skeptical looks on our faces and assured us it was an upgrade to an all-suites hotel at no extra cost.
The outside of the Casa Grande was subdued Mediterranean style, while the inside was pure luxury. Our suite was spacious, with a kitchen, two bathrooms, and a huge bedroom and living room.
The kitchen–complete with microwave, range, full-size refrigerator and dishwasher–was stocked with pots, pans, dishes and silverware. The roomy bedroom closet contained two white, thick terry-cloth robes.
It was like being in a decent-size apartment with plenty of room for maneuvering a wheelchair. As far as access, the bathroom was the highlight. It was huge with a raised commode, grab bars, and, best of all, a large roll-in shower with hand-held wand and a built-in bench.
The suite’s gorgeous wood furniture and tile floor gave it the feel of a tropical villa. We immediately tested the Sony compact disc player, complete with CDs of (surprise!) Island recording artists.
Although access is important to us, we are first and foremost consumers who love to eat, recreate and sightsee like everyone else. And just like everyone else, we appreciate excellent quality service. The staff at the Casa Grande was attentive to our every need. They even offered to bring up a portable microwave oven in case Heidi could not reach the one mounted above the counter.
Although South Beach at times feels like an enchanted island unto itself, it’s still very much a part of the Miami melting pot. We breakfasted one morning at a Cuban diner about a half-dozen blocks away from our posh suite. As the waitress wrestled with her limited English and we struggled with our even more limited Spanish, it was apparent we were the only tourists in the place.
Miraculously the meals served were exactly what we ordered and we savored every bite of sweet, crispy Cuban toast smothered with butter and every morsel of succulent, lean ham. The Cuban coffee with its rich, almost chocolaty, flavor put to shame any froufrou stuff offered at a typical, over-priced yuppie java joint. Our entire meal with tip was about the price of two mochaccinos.
A mere 15-minute walk from the chicest areas of South Beach and we were in a real, working-class neighborhood with grocery and drugstores and storefronts displaying signs in Spanish. Although the area is a little rough around the edges, it’s a pleasing contrast to SoBe’s self-conscious trendiness. And the curb-cuts and general access were just as good as that along Ocean Drive.
According to a brochure, you can order stone crab claws shipped overnight from Joe’s, starting at about $100 for a meal for two.
That’s nice, but it doesn’t bring you back to the warm Deco pastels, the Ocean Drive glamour, and the ocean mist spraying across the beach on a glorious 80-degree January day.
DETAILS ON SOUTH BEACH
Hotels: Avalon and Majestic Hotel, 700 Ocean Dr. (305-538-0133), is a delightful property with a quaint, comfortable feel. The creamy yellow exterior has the gorgeous hallmarks of the Streamline style of architecture and the small but attractive rooms make guests feel at home. The Avalon gets high marks for eye appeal and location, but the room dimensions make it impractical for anyone who can’t maneuver around without a wheelchair. Standard double rooms from $79 (from $130 peak season).
– Casa Grande Hotel, 834 Ocean Dr. (305-672-7003), is a luxurious all-suites hotel across the street from the beach. With its red-tile roofs and stucco walls, it is a gorgeous example of Mediterranean Revival. Our suite was elegantly appointed, very accessible and featured a large, roll-in shower with built-in seat. Junior suite rates from $160 (from $230 peak season).
Restaurants: Joe’s Stone Crab Restaurant, 227 Biscayne St. (305-673-0365), has the perfect ingredients for that romantic picnic on the beach. This South Beach institution has fancy table service, but why not carry out luscious stone crab claws for memorable alfresco dining? Try some claws and other seafood goodies along with any number of inspired side dishes, all packaged complete with plasticware and moist towelettes. Caution: Joe’s closes from late May to late September, when stone crabs are out of season.
– Puerto Sagua, 700 Collins Ave. (305-673-1115), has a lengthy menu, but the Cuban dishes are the focal point. The fried plantains are succulent and the media noche sandwiches are prepared with sweet Cuban bread that’s as crusty as the waiters.
Tours: Art Deco District Tour is a 90-minute walking tour that leaves from the Art Deco Welcome Center at 1001 Ocean Dr. Call 305-672-2014 for times.
Information: Contact the Greater Miami Convention and Visitors Bureau, 701 Brickell Ave., Suite 2700, Miami, 33131; 800-283-2707 or 305-539-3000. Travelers with disabilities should request the one-page sheet titled, “Working to Make Your Stay More Accessible.” Also visit the chamber of commerce Web site at www.sobe.com/miamibeachchamber or the South Beach community at www.
sobe.com.
To receive a “Directory of Services for the Physically Disabled in Dade County,” write Metro-Dade Disability Services and Independent Living, 1335 N.W. 14th St., Miami, Fla. 33125, or call 305-547-5445 (voice) or 305-324-5781 (TTY).
