Big Apple eats here: When the New York Times recently touted five Chicago-area restaurants for their small-town charm and sophistication, they chose two in Lockport: the Public Landing and Tallgrass.
“We had no idea,” said Tom Alves, who, with partner/chef Robert Burcenski, both of Lockport, owns both establishments. “They called and wanted to get some photos for the travel section.”
A color photo of Burcenski, dressed in a chef’s coat and baseball cap and holding an elegant dessert, appeared on the Times’ Sunday travel section cover. The story also splashed photos of diners in the Public Landing, a plate of Burcenski’s exotic ostrich steak, and the elegant Victorian building that houses Tallgrass.
“We’ve been doing this 16 years,” Alves said. “We’re an institution in the dining industry. After so long, critics start to jump on places.”
The story, however, praised Burcenski’s menus at both restaurants, including his “exquisite” soup at Tallgrass.
(It’s actually three soups–tomato-eggplant, fennel-potato and watercress-zucchini–carefully swirled in one bowl.)
Intrigued by the article, culinary adventurers from New York, Detroit and elsewhere have since flown in to dine at Tallgrass. And staff at both restaurants have received kudos from regulars.
“I’ve always felt that (Robert’s) food is the best in the world,” Alves said, “and I’ve traveled to a lot of places.”
