We Americans eat more tuna than any other fish–roughly 890 million pounds of it a year. That’s about 3 pounds for every man, woman and child in the country. But almost all of that is canned and, until 10 or 15 years ago, even the best cooks assumed that’s as it should be.
Ten years ago, however, in a moment of wild enthusiasm brought on by the taste of a perfect slab of yellowfin, I predicted that tuna would become the strip steak of the ’90s. I was wrong. The decade is already heading toward the homestretch, and at least 80 percent of the tuna eaten in this country still comes from a can.
Granted, the tide is turning more slowly than I had anticipated, but more and more Americans are recognizing that eating tuna doesn’t always require a can opener and a jar of mayonnaise. Fresh tuna is–like the best steak–rich, tender, marvelously flavorful and made for easy cooking. What’s more, unlike steak or any other cut of meat, tuna is almost fat-free.
Most species of tuna contain just about 1 gram of fat per 3-ounce cooked serving; this helps keep the calorie count under 160. And, of course, it’s high in protein and contains the omega-3 fatty acids found in many fish-substances long thought to reduce the risk of heart disease, asthma and many other diseases.
Although tuna is seasonal, improved shipping means that there is almost always fresh tuna from somewhere for sale. We have come a long way from a decade ago, when you could find fresh tuna for only a few months a year. Even so, you won’t find me making any more predictions.
TUNA BURGERS
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
1 1/4 pounds fresh tuna, finely chopped
1 shallot, peeled, minced
1/3 cup capers, drained, rinsed, chopped
1/3 cup minced fresh parsley
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
1 tablespoon each: olive oil, Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon each: sherry vinegar, Worcestershire sauce
Few drops hot pepper sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 crusty rolls, split
4 lettuce leaves
4 tomato slices
1/4 cup reduced-fat mayonnaise or 2 tablespoons black olive spread
1. Heat broiler. Place tuna in a mixing bowl and add shallot, capers, parsley, chives, oil, mustard, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce and pepper sauce. Mix gently until combined. Mix in salt and pepper. Gently shape into 4 burgers.
2. Broil on high heat, carefully turning only once, about 3 minutes per side for medium-rare, a few minutes longer to cook through.
3. Place burgers on rolls with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise or olive spread.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……. 315 Fat ………… 10 g Cholesterol .. 65 mg
Sodium …… 575 mg Carbohydrates .. 25 g Protein ……. 35 g
TUNA PROVENCAL
Preparation time: 45 minutes
Cooking time: 8-10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 anchovy fillets, drained, rinsed, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 red bell peppers, cut into 1/4-inch strips
1 large onion, cut into 1/8-inch slices
3 large tomatoes, seeded, chopped, or one 28-ounce can tomatoes, drained, chopped
1/2 cup pitted, coarsely chopped, imported black and/or green olives
2 tablespoons chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano
Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 tuna steak (about 1 pound), cut into 4 pieces
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Heat 2 teaspoons of the oil over low heat in 10- or 12-inch skillet. Add anchovies and garlic; cook, stirring and mashing, until anchovies liquefy, 3 to 5 minutes.
2. Add bell peppers and onion; increase heat to medium. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onion begins to soften and brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Stir in olives, 2 tablespoons parsley and oregano. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon vegetable mixture into a 1 1/2- to 2-quart shallow baking dish.
3. Rinse and wipe skillet dry. Add remaining teaspoon oil and heat over high heat. Season tuna with salt and pepper. Sear on both sides, until nicely browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side.
4. Nestle tuna in vegetable mixture. Bake until cooked to desired doneness, about 6 minutes for medium-rare, a few minutes longer to cook through. Garnish with parsley.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……. 280 Fat …………. 8 g Cholesterol .. 65 mg
Sodium …… 660 mg Carbohydrates .. 16 g Protein ……. 37 g
