The menu at the 6-month-old, spanking clean Olive Tree Cafe promises a great deal: “Authentic Middle Eastern & Mediterranean food, ALL fresh and natural ingredients, meat & vegetarian dishes.” And it delivers, figuratively at least.
There are signs of skillful, caring cooking in the fresh, still-firm vegetables, tangy stuffed grape leaves and aromatic (though dry) kebabs of lamb and chicken. Pita and other breads are fresh and pleasing even on their own without fillings. The delicately sweetened baklava may be the best in the city. (It comes from the Middle Eastern Bakery next door, which is under the same ownership.)
The Olive Tree’s white and green corner exterior is attractive. Large picture windows offer a view into the restaurant from the corner of Clark Street and Foster Avenue. Inside, well-spaced faux marble tables, comfortable chairs and a mural of a rustic countryside setting along one wall make the single dining room inviting.
The menu, which represents cooking of Lebanon and Palestine as interpreted by chef Noel Faraj, is sensible in length and scope. It contains 15 appetizers, salads and dips; a pair of soups; nine sandwiches; a dozen entrees; and three desserts.
One could not do better than to begin a meal here with one (or several) “mini stuffed pie (75 cents).” Stuffings include meat, eggplant and parsley, and -my choice -soft spinach combined with a mildly salty feta cheese. The grape leaves ($1), firm not soggy, are stuffed as well with a mixture of rice, onion, parsley and tomato gently flavored with olive oil, mild spices and lemon juice. A rice and lamb stuffing is available as well at the same price. Kibbeh ($1.50) is another lively appetizer. It’s a blend of bulgur wheat and coarsely ground lamb seasoned with lots of black pepper. There’s a vegetarian version too.
For those who don’t have the appetite for a filling entree, the Moroccan eggplant sandwich ($2.95) is a tasty compromise. Sauteed slices of eggplant are combined with red pepper, mushrooms and feta, to provide contrasts of texture and taste.
The vegetarian couscous ($9.95) is mild, too, and slightly acrid, though the use of dried apricots enlivens a mixture of tomato, zucchini, carrots and chickpeas that is ladled over the buttery semolina.
A lemon-accented yogurt sauce is used to moisten many of the appetizers and entrees. You might want to add some to the chunks of lamb and chicken served with rice and grilled vegetables on the combination kebab plate ($7.95). The marinated meat was nicely seasoned but cooked until quite dry. Lamb shawerma ($8.95), prepared on a vertical spit in the manner of gyros, was also dry, and boring. Falafel (round chickpea patties, $5.95), on the other hand, was lively and not at all greasy. The entree portion comes accompanied by three classic Mediterranean sides: baba ghanouj, hummus and tabbouleh.
For dessert, in addition to the crisp baklava ($1.25), we tried katayef ($1.50), a pancakelike pastry filled with sweet cheese or walnuts with cinnamon.
The Olive Tree offers fruits juices, soft drinks, tea and Italian and Turkish coffee. No alcoholic beverages are sold, although diners may bring their own.
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Olive Tree Cafe
(Two forks)
5200 N. Clark St.
773-561-8302
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. daily
Credit cards: A, M, V
Wheelchair accessible
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class
3 forks: Better than most
2 forks: Very good fare
1 fork: Middle of the road
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
