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The minimalist cook always looks for quick flavor boosts without expending unnecessary energy. A fine candidate for this treatment is the sea scallop, one of the most perfect of nature’s convenience foods because almost nothing cooks faster. This is especially true if you heat the scallop until it remains rare in the center, as most admirers do.

Shuckers handle scallops differently from other shellfish, separating the muscle from the digestive systems soon after capture. This makes scallops the safest shellfish to eat, undercooked or even raw.

Sea scallops are also large enough to stuff, not with bread crumbs or other fish, as is common for clams or lobsters, but with flavor. (You don’t have to find the monsters whose shells are as big as plates, which are served in four-star restaurants and come three to a serving.)

As long as a scallop is a good inch across and roughly three-quarters of an inch thick, you can make a slit in its midsection and fill the cavity with herb paste, peanut sauce or any savory mixture you like.

As the scallop cooks, the mixture, which becomes barely warm, thins and drizzles out a bit from the center. The result is not only more colorful but also more flavorful, because as the filling warms, it infuses the flesh with flavor.

Scallops may be grilled or broiled, but I prefer to saute them to allow the stuffing’s juices to mingle with those the scallop itself exudes; with this liquid, the scallops are perfect over raw or cooked greens.

A word about buying scallops: Many are dipped in a chemical solution to prolong their shelf life. That soaking forces them to absorb water, which increases their weight and–water being cheaper than scallops–decreases their value.

Buy dry, beige (or slightly pink or orange) scallops from a good fishmonger.

Experienced cooks usually remove the tough hinge on one side of most scallops before cooking. But when you’re stuffing scallops, leave the hinge on and cut from the side directly opposite. The hinge will hold the scallop together and can be removed.

SAUTEED SCALLOPS STUFFED WITH BASIL

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

20 large fresh basil leaves

1 small clove garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds fairly uniform large sea scallops

4 to 6 cups mixed greens, washed, dried

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1. Mince basil, garlic, salt and pepper together until very fine, almost a puree (or use a small food processor). Transfer to small bowl; mix in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to produce a thick paste.

2. Cut most but not all of the way through the equator of each scallop; then, smear about 1/4 teaspoon of the basil mixture in the exposed center; close scallop.

3. Place large non-stick skillet over high heat 1 minute; add remaining oil. Add scallops, 1 at a time. Brown one side, about 1 or 2 minutes; turn and brown the other.

4. Place scallops on bed of greens. Reduce heat to low; add lemon juice to skillet. Cook, stirring, about 10 seconds; pour pan juices over scallops and greens.

Variation: For scallops stuffed with peanut sauce, cream 2 tablespoons chunky natural peanut butter with 1/4 teaspoon minced garlic, minced fresh chilies or ground red pepper to taste, 1 teaspoon sugar and sufficient soy sauce to make a thin paste. Use this paste like the basil paste above, and use peanut oil to cook scallops. Substitute lime juice for lemon juice, and serve over a bed of lightly steamed or sauteed bitter greens such as dandelions or mustard.

Nutrition information per serving:

Calories ……. 250 Fat ……….. 12 g Cholesterol .. 65 mg

Sodium …… 600 mg Carbohydrates .. 6 g Protein ……. 30 g