When the first Hanukkah candle is lighted on Tuesday evening, the glow of light is meant to celebrate an ancient victory for freedom and remind Jews of a miracle with oil that took place more than 2,000 years ago.
At that time, Judah Maccabee and his five sons led a successful revolt against the conquering Syrians to reclaim the Temple in Jerusalem. Once the Maccabees removed the Greek idols and cleansed the Temple, however, they found only enough oil to light the Eternal Lamp for one day. Miraculously, the oil lasted eight days, long enough for them to replenish their supply.
Today, during the Festival of Lights, as Hanukkah is called, Jews burn candles on eight successive days, and eat traditional fried foods–latkes and jelly doughnuts–that remind them of this miracle of the oil.
When it comes to latkes (Yiddish for pancake), potato has long been the favorite variety. Over the years there have been endless debates over the relative merits of hand-grated versus food processor-shredded potatoes. Most experts claim the flavor of hand-grated potato latkes is superior, but the thought of all those grated knuckles weighs in heavily among those who favor the aid of a food processor.
In an attempt to update tradition, some cooks mix sweet potatoes with white potatoes, or indeed, make their latkes entirely of sweet potatoes (a bit of minced ginger really boosts the flavor here). But this year, why not forget potatoes altogether and make your latkes with zucchini, mushrooms, white beans, noodles, carrots paired with parsnips, salmon or chicken? After all, it’s not the potatoes that are symbolic, but the oil in which they are cooked.
“Latkes are a real comfort food,” says Myra Chanin, a culinary commentator on National Public Radio and author of “Mother Wonderful’s Chicken Soup” (Dell, $9.95). But potato latkes were not always traditional, she says. For centuries, cheese latkes were eaten.
“Potatoes are a New World crop. There were no potatoes in Europe until after America was discovered,” she says. “They became traditional at Hanukkah in the 18th Century because they were there and they were cheap. What’s funny about ethnic food is that it becomes ethnic because it’s cheap.”
At Chanin’s home, the latkes come in assorted flavors and colors. Among her favorites are squash and white bean and zucchini latkes. Adding a combination of herbs really makes a difference, she says. “Most people don’t cook any more; they assemble food. If you mix dried herbs and add one fresh herb, people will think you’ve been cooking for a week,” she says.
A good thing about latkes, she adds, is that they can be cooked in advance and left overnight in the refrigerator. “Put them on paper towels to keep them from getting watery. Then heat them to crisp them up,” she says.
If you want to be really different, try fruit-based latkes. Serve them as an accompaniment to a main course or a dessert, suggests Ethel G. Hofman, author of “Everyday Cooking for the Jewish Home.” You may just start a new tradition at your own home.
DILL CHICKEN LATKES
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 6-8 minutes per batch
Yield: 6 servings
Although you can eat these latkes right away, they taste even better after they sit in the refrigerator overnight and the flavors mellow, author Myra Chanin says.
8 ounces skinless, boneless cooked chicken
6 green onions with 3 inches of green tops
2 large eggs
1 slice white bread, crusts removed
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1 tablespoon lime juice
1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon white pepper
1 clove garlic, minced
8 drops hot pepper sauce
Oil for frying
1. Combine all ingredients except oil in food processor; chop coarsely.
2. Grease large skillet; heat over medium-high heat. Divide chicken mixture into 1/4-cup portions; make each one into patty. Fry 3 to 4 minutes on each side until golden brown.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …… 155 Fat ………… 9 g Cholesterol .. 105 mg
Sodium ….. 275 mg Carbohydrates .. 4 g Protein …….. 14 g
WHITE BEAN AND ZUCCHINI LATKES
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 8 minutes per batch
Yield: 12 latkes
1 cup grated zucchini
Salt
2 1/2 tablespoons butter
1 small onion, peeled, minced
1 clove garlic
2 slices white bread
3 tablespoons whipping cream
1 can (15 ounces) white beans, rinsed, drained
2 eggs
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
1/2 teaspoon each, dried: thyme, coriander, chervil
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh basil
Oil for frying
1. Sprinkle zucchini lightly with salt and allow to drain 5 minutes in a colander. Rinse well; drain and blot to remove excess water. Heat 1 tablespoon of the butter in skillet; cook zucchini with onion until limp but not browned. Let cool.
2. Meanwhile, mince garlic in food processor. Add bread and cream; process to mix. Add beans, remaining butter, eggs, cilantro, thyme, coriander, chervil and basil; process until combined. Pour mixture into clean bowl. Fold in zucchini mixture.
3. Heat oil in skillet; drop in mixture by heaping tablespoons. Fry 4 minutes per side over medium heat or until golden brown.
Nutrition information per latke:
Calories …… 125 Fat …………. 7 g Cholesterol .. 45 mg
Sodium …… 35 mg Carbohydrates .. 11 g Protein …….. 4 g
CHERRY LATKES
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 6-8 minutes per batch
Yield: 16-18 latkes
Ethel G. Hofman, author of “Everyday Cooking for the Jewish Home,” says you can use blueberry, apple or any other fruit filling in this recipe. To make this a parve dish that can be served with a meat meal, substitute non-dairy creamer for the milk.
1 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
2 eggs
4 tablespoons milk
3/4 teaspoon almond extract
1 cup cherry pie filling
Oil for frying
1. Mix flour and baking powder in medium bowl. Make a well in center; add eggs, milk and almond extract. Mix well. Stir in pie filling.
2. Heat about 1/8-inch oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until drop of pie filling mixture sizzles. Slide mixture by rounded tablespoonfuls into hot oil, about 1/2 inch apart. Cook 3 to 4 minutes on each side until crisp and browned.
Nutrition information per latke (based on 18):
Calories …… 70 Fat …………. 3 g Cholesterol .. 20 mg
Sodium ….. 16 mg Carbohydrates .. 10 g Protein …….. 2 g
