Service isn’t usually the first thing you notice about a takeout sandwich-and-soda outfit. But it is impossible to overlook at Briazz Cafe. As soon as we walked in, we were greeted by someone telling us about the new hot entrees and how to order them. The counter staff offered help about every two seconds. On another visit, the unthinkable occurred: When I bought a brownie after lunch, the clerk helped me make change–with some of the money I had tossed into his tip jar.
The service is more surprising given that Briazz is essentially self-service (cold items are in an open cooler along one wall; desserts and breads share the counter with hot sandwiches and soups).
The cafe touts its fare as “gourmet-to-go,” a description that is a stretch. Creative approaches are applied to a large menu of freshly made sandwiches, salads, soups and sides. But prices are not cheap and the fare can be inconsistent.
Our favorite items came from the hot entrees selection. Sandwiches aren’t huge but are generously filled. The chicken breast-smoked mozzarella panini ($4.99) contains large chunks of chicken smothered with melted cheese and complemented with a relish of roasted red pepper, onion and sun-dried tomato. It’s on the salty side, but the soft, grilled sourdough bread compensates. We also liked the robust Black Forest ham and Jarlsberg cheese panini ($4.99).
Cold sandwiches disappointed. The Poor Girl ($4.99) sounds great: Genoa salami, Black Forest ham, provolone, pepperoncini, tomatoes and lettuce with lemon caper aioli on an Italian roll. But it was bland. The label stated it was made fresh that day; maybe so, but maybe too early in the day.
The soups ($2.69 per cup; $3.49 bowl) restored our faith. The lineup changes daily. Zesty Azteca chicken and rice doesn’t skimp on meat and gets a refreshing boost from lemon and pepper. The Jamaican black bean also warmed us, with its thick chicken-broth base and a supporting cast that includes cilantro, garlic and tomato.
The salads showcase a parade of lively combinations. We loved the Briazz Green Garden ($3.99), a colorful and crisp medley of artichokes, tomatoes, yellow and red peppers, cucumbers and baby carrots on a bed of romaine. Salads come with two 1.5-ounce containers of dressing; we chose a perky rosemary vinaigrette and a rich blue cheese.
The spicy couscous ($2.99; $3.99 large) isn’t; it has only the slightest hint of curry. But dressed up with red onion, zucchini, red pepper and chickpeas, it is tangy. The bouncy noodles ($2.99 side; $3.99 large) fell flat; the al dente noodles (so far, so good) had no opportunity to bounce in an acidic sesame-soy sauce.
The crispy chocolate-chunk cookie (89 cents) or large brownie ($1.25) makes a satisfying finale.
Sodas, juices and waters are sold, along with Ghirardelli cocoa and Starbucks coffee.
Don’t count on sitting down to enjoy your meal during peak hours. Eleven chairs at small counters constitute the seating. Newspapers are available, rather an optimistic lure in such cramped quarters at lunch.
———-
Briazz Cafe
(Two forks)
111 W. Jackson Blvd.
312-850-345
Hours: 6 a.m.-5 p.m. Mon.-Fri. (Closed Sat.-Sun.)
A, D, DC, M,V
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class
3 forks: Better than most
2 forks: Very good fare
1 fork: Middle of the road
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
