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Since the chubby man in the red suit hasn’t packed his sleigh yet, there’s time to voice an annual wish: On Christmas morning let there be a bottle of Champagne, either under the tree or in the refrigerator.
But not just any bottle. This year, let it be the 1988 Dom Ruinart 1988 Blanc de Blancs. (That means white wine from white grapes only. Most Champagnes are a blend of red and white grapes.) Aged in chalk caves for more than six years, this wine is remarkably rich yet subtle, with hints of honey and lemon in the aroma and a long, lovely aftertaste. At $95, it has to be special. But there would be little disappointment if the bottle turned out to be 1992 “R” de Ruinart Brut ($50).
