Q–I have a bare concrete floor in myy basement and I want to finish off and enclose one area as a bedroom. The cold concrete floor is dry and there is no dampness problem, but it is cold. I don’t want to use outdoor carpet on the concrete. I would like to put down a wood subfloor to create a warmer floor for this room. How do I install this on top of the concrete?
A–Start by scrubbing the concrete with a strong detergent, then allow it to dry thoroughly. Apply a thin coat of asphalt mastic, using a notched trowel to spread it on, then cover the mastic with sheets of 6-mil polyethylene. Press the sheets into firm contact with the mastic by using a weighted roller, then spread rows of mastic on top of the plastic sheeting and embed pressure-treated 2-by-4 “sleepers,” laid flat on top of the polyethylene. Then nail sheets of 3/4-inch exterior plywood on top of the 2-by-4’s to act as a subfloor for the carpet and its padding.
Q–I have ceramic tile on my kitchen floor that has a textured surface. The design has numerous little grooves that seem to hold dirt, making constant cleaning necessary. Can I apply some type of clear protective coating that will make this floor easier to clean?
A–Applying a sealer or coating will not help make cleaning easier because there will still be the grooves and crevices to catch the dirt–unless you apply a coating that is so thick it will actually fill in those crevices. However, if the tile is also porous, then sealing the surface will keep dirt from soaking in. There are clear ceramic tile sealers you can buy that will not discolor and may help make cleaning easier.
Q–The finished room in my basement has a wide heating duct up against the ceiling. It cannot be boxed in because that would not leave enough headroom under it, so I painted this duct some years ago. Now it needs repainting and since the old paint is chipping and flaking I have been advised to get all the old paint off first. I tried using a wire brush, but this is not really doing the job. What suggestions can you offer?
A–Use a non-flammable, heavy duty chemical paint remover to take off the old paint, following directions on the can. Wear safety goggles and protective clothing when doing this. When ready to repaint, apply a first coat of metal primer, then one or two finish coats of satin finish enamel.
Q–I had a crack in the concrete wall of my basement that was about 1/8-inch wide and 4 feet in length. A small amount of water was leaking in after a heavy rain, so I filled the crack with patching cement. Now, less than a year later, this cement seems to be cracking out. How can I repair this permanently?
A–Before filling the crack again, cut it out to make it wider on the inside (at the bottom) than it is on the surface. This will ensure a better mechanical bond when the crack is filled. Wet the crack before filling it and use a hydraulic patching cement, rather than conventional patching cement. This expands as it cures, so it “locks” the patch in place better and will be more resistant to being pushed out by water.
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Have a question about home repair problems? Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Your Place, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611.
