Q–I’ve got an annoying electrical problem with my Caravan (3-liter/automatic transmission) that seems to be getting worse. It seems to be eating batteries every five to seven months. It started out eating one every 12 to 18 months.
The van does not get driven very often; I put gas in it about once a month. When it does get driven, it is usually on side streets as opposed to the highway. I had the electrical system checked about three years ago, and it checked out OK.
Should I be looking for a failing electrical system component or should I be searching for a wire that may be touching ground?
I do not have any other electrical problems, though I’ve noticed that when I turn on the lights, turn signal or heater, the electrical gauge on the dash goes down slightly. Any ideas? G.B., Carol Stream
A–You are committing assault on your batteries by demanding they do work, but not feeding them. The van is not eating batteries; the batteries just are not getting a steady diet of electrons.
The alternator creates the voltage to recharge the battery, but if you never drive it long enough to replenish what you have drained, the battery will never come back to a fully charged state.
When you mix in the colder weather, which lowers a battery’s potential, you have a recipe for failure. Drive your van farther occasionally or buy a trickle charger.
Q–I own a ’94 Honda Civic with a manual transmission and 82,000 miles on it. Lately, I have started experiencing difficulty in shifting to first gear (at a stoplight) and to reverse. I have to shift to second, which makes the necessary shift to first or reverse possible. At this point, is it necessary to take the car to a transmission shop? If I don’t do it now, will it require a more expensive repair down the road? G.K., Niles
A–You did not tell us what kind of difficulty you are having shifting into low or reverse, but we suspect that it is gear clash and that is a sign of a clutch that is not fully disengaging when you depress the pedal.
The solution may be as simple as a minor adjustment or as major as a clutch replacement. Take your Honda to a professional at a full-service general repair shop, the dealer or a transmission shop. If you have time, get an estimate from all three.
Q–I drive a ’94 Buick LeSabre. Since the car was new, when the gas gauge reads in the orange area (one-eighth of a tank), the engine bucks or stalls momentarily. A dealer told me to keep it full. It is really dangerous because, when I pull out at full throttle, it can falter. What do you say? A.R., Westchester
A–We say you should keep your tank at least a quarter full to avoid cavitation, which we think is the problem. When the fuel is low, the pump draws air and the engine is momentarily starved. Our hunch is that the fuel sender is miscalibrated and, when your gauge drops to the warning level, it is almost empty. Because this has happened since Day 1, you should have had it repaired under the warranty. Any service manager whose flippant response is “keep it full” isn’t playing with a full deck.
Q–My love affair with Pontiacs is in jeopardy. At 50,000 miles and just three months after the warranty expired on my ’94 Bonneville, it was diagnosed as needing a transmission. I was surprised since I have owned several Pontiacs and none has ever had a transmission problem.
Without hesitation, the service manager offered to pay one-third of the cost of a rebuilt. I am leery of accepting because I shopped around at two reputable repair stores and found the dealership cost to be one-third higher than the other two quotes. In essence, the dealer is not doing me any favors. Should I put my doubts aside and accept the service department’s offer? J.B., Algonquin
A–We commend you for doing a little research before accepting the dealer’s estimate. More people should follow your example. You have not given us any symptoms so we are not even sure you need a complete transmission.
Since your car is so recently out of warranty, it is worth your effort to make one more call, to the zone office, asking whether there is any good-will assistance for your problem. Ultimately, however, it is your decision as to where the work may be done. We suggest you ask that an ASE-certified technician do the job.
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Bob Weber, former editor of a professional automotive trade magazine, is an ASE-certified Master Automobile Technician and has recertified every five years since 1978. Send your technical questions about cars to him in care of Motormouth, 17717 Silcott Springs Rd., Purcellville, Va. 20132. Send e-mail with your name and hometown to motormth1@aol.com. Answers are supplied only through the newspaper.
