Ask anyone. They’ll say: Fried foods are a part of their care-free past. Broiled is better than batter-dipped. No sense in frittering away calories on food cooked in fat. And we say: Oh sure. Fried foods have never gone out of style; they just keep showing up in new guises.
Remember the fried calamari everyone ordered at the last after-work get-together? And the popular “poppers”: cheese-stuffed jalapenos battered and deep-fried, like the ones served at Salpicon on North Wells Street? Or the Tuscan (french) fries at Coco Pazzo Cafe and the cha giao (fried spring rolls) on the menu at Pasteur? Hmm?
“People who say they don’t like fried food are either lying or they’ve had bad fried food,” asserts John Martin Taylor, author of “The Fearless Frying Cookbook” (Workman, $10.95). “Every single culture has favorite fried foods: Austrian schnitzels and Chinese won tons and Southern hush puppies.”
But even when food buffs take a shine to fried dishes, the thought of making the stuff at home can be overwhelming. The oils, the heat, the mess sure seem to take a lot more effort than heating something in the microwave.
Yet it doesn’t have to be scary.
Fear of frying is a recent phenomenon. Long before ovens were in every home, this one-pot method of cooking in fat was the most efficient way to cook food evenly, quickly and with the flavor most of us miss.
“People need to learn to think of the oil as the cooking medium,” says Taylor. “Think of it as charcoal.”
In the generations before fat became a four-letter word, frying was also a way to add needed calories to the meal, while roasting and grilling allowed them to cook away.
No one is suggesting the average diner needs more calories, but for an occasional food luxury, frying properly can make the difference between a crisp, crackly dish and one that’s greasy and heavy.
Professional cooks know this, which is why many of us leave frying to the restaurants. An upcoming survey by the National Restaurant Association of 1997 dining habits found that although customers voiced a preference for healthful choices, “sauteed” was one of the most frequently used preparations on menus.
You may have to read between the lines: A lot of restaurant menus gloss over the f-word with such menu descriptions as “crispy,” “crunchy” and “crackly”; even Kentucky Fried Chicken lightened up its name by becoming KFC.
Yet sizzle is still sexy. The Outback Steakhouse restaurant chain says it sells more deep-fried “blooming onion” appetizers than any other starter. And Burger King is attempting to usurp the french fry crown from McDonald’s with its newest spud.
But what has helped keep the fire burning under the fryer is the acceptance of so many different cuisines, with each new ethnic restaurant uncovering other fried fads.
Nancy Harmon Jenkins, a cookbook writer specializing in Mediterranean cuisine, cites that region as having the “greatest frying traditions,” from Lebanese falafel to Sicilian arancini (fried rice balls) and the stuffed fried mushrooms in Spanish tapas.
Asian cuisines also demonstrate the knack for fried foods, especially the quick stir-fry method. Egg rolls were an early Chinese restaurant experience; now pan-fried pork dumplings and Szechuan string beans are common. Tempura is a well-known part of the Japanese restaurant menu, as are spring rolls from Vietnam and Thailand.
“Frying does make food more interesting,” Jenkins says. “The ethnic (dishes) we know more often turn out to be street food, like samosas in India or stamp-and-go (fried codfish and potato balls) in the Caribbean,” meals that can easily be turned out from a street cart cooker.
America’s heritage of fried food is largely influenced by the cooks of the South, who turned fry art into high art. Try to think of an animal, vegetable or mineral dish served in the region that hasn’t been baptized in bubbling fat. Fried oysters, fried okra, fried green tomatoes and corn fritters could qualify as the “meat and three” at a coastal country restaurant; Southerners also know the pleasures of a plate of fried chicken livers and a deep-fried turkey at a Cajun Thanksgiving.
It’s what John T. Edge, a culinary historian at the Center for the Study of Southern Culture in Oxford, Miss., calls the “legacy of lard.”
“People were raising hogs and slaughtering hogs, making cracklings and rendering all that fat that they had to use up,” he says.
Fried chicken, of course, is the one dish synonymous with Southern cooking. Damon Fowler, a Savannah-based cookbook author who is writing a book on fried chicken, says that “every major cuisine in the world has a fried chicken in their repertory, yet ours is the only one known worldwide.”
What turned off some people were the mass-produced meals that sat too long in oil or were fried in stale oil, ruining the taste. There are steps to follow when frying that will make the indulgence worthwhile.
When it’s done right, fried food is wonderful. Let’s face it: Rice cakes, organic yogurt and light salad dressing may be in our kitchens, but a taste for something fried will always be in our hearts, just bubbling under the surface.
WHAT YOU NEED FOR FEARLESS FRYING
EQUIPMENT
Use a deep frying pot or wok. There needs to be enough oil and plenty of room for the food. There should be about 3 inches between the surface of the fat and the lip of the pan to prevent the oil from boiling over.
Get a frying thermometer or candy thermometer that records at least 400 degrees, and attach it to the pan while cooking.
OILS
It’s important to use fresh oil when frying, because every time oils are heated, their chemical structure breaks down, making them less effectiveor even dangerousif reused. The flavor also is affected.
Peanut and olive oils add a slight flavor to your food. Highly refined oils, such as soybean, sunflower and corn, are frequently used in cooking because of their blandness.
Vegetable oils, such as peanut and corn oil, are preferred for deep frying because they can heat to 400 degrees and above without smoking. Sunflower oil has a sightly lower smoke point. Olive oil has a smoke point of about 250 degrees and is not recommended for frying.
Solid fats, such as vegetable shortening and lard, are also fine for deep frying, but can add heaviness or unwanted flavor.
Butter and margarine are not pure fats; their composition, which can include water or milk solids, allows them to scorch quickly and makes them unsuitable for frying. Save butter and margarine for sauteing.
TEMPERATURES
Keep the temperature between 325 and 350 degrees. If the heat is too low, it won’t cook fast enough; if it’s too high, the oil can ignite.
Monitor the temperature between batches. Fry cooking is not like an oven that reaches a preset temperature and stays there. Adding food cools the fat; the more pieces you add, the more you reduce the temperature.
SAFETY
Water and oil don’t mix. Make sure excess moisture is blotted from ingredients before dipping in batter or frying plain.
When placing food in hot oil, dip in one end and lay out the rest away from you to avoid spattering.
DRAINING
If the point is to drain away excess oil from something that has just been fried, it doesn’t make sense to have it sitting on a plate. A liner of paper towels just barely blots grease. Instead, place fried food on a wire mesh rack so that grease isn’t reintroduced; circulating air will also keep the food from steaming.
Sources: Institute of Shortening and Edible Oils; “Cookwise” by Shirley O. Corriher; “Fearless Frying,” by John Martin Taylor; “On Food and Cooking” by Harold McGee.
FRIED WON TONS WITH HOT CHILI SAUCE
Preparation time: 30 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes per batch
Yield: 40 dumplings
Adapted from a recipe from “China Express,”by Nina Simonds
Filling:
4 medium shrimp, peeled,deveined
1 pound finely ground pork
1 can (4 ounces) water chestnuts, drained, coarsely chopped
2 to 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons each: minced green onion, soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine or sake
1 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
Chili sauce:
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon each: sugar, Chinese black vinegar or Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons water
1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot chili paste, or to taste
1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger
Won tons:
40 won ton or gyoza wrappers
Cornstarch, vegetable or peanut oil
1. For filling, wrap shrimp in paper towels; squeeze out extra moisture and finely chop. Combine shrimp, pork and water chestnuts in medium bowl; mix well. Stir in ginger, green onion, soy sauce, rice wine, sesame oil, cornstarch and pepper. Combine thoroughly; mixture should be stiff. Refrigerate until ready to use. (Can be prepared several hours in advance.)
2. For chili sauce, stir together soy sauce, sugar, black vinegar or Worcestershire, water, chili paste and ginger in small bowl. Place in serving bowl; set aside.
3. Place 2 teaspoons filling in center of each wonton skin. Moisten edges with water, fold over in half to cover filling; press edges to seal. Arrange dumplings on tray lightly dusted with cornstarch.
4. Heat oven to 200 degrees. Pour oil to depth of at least 2 inches in wok or Dutch oven. Heat oil over medium-high heat to 350 degrees. Fry 8 or 9 dumplings, turning constantly, until golden brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Place on baking sheet and keep warm in oven. Fry remaining batches; reheat oil between batches. Arrange dumplings on platter; serve with hot chili sauce.
Nutrition information per dumpling:
Calories …….. 65 Sodium ……. 55 mg Fat ……. 3 g
Carbohydrates .. 5 g Cholesterol .. 10 mg Protein … 4 g
BEEF AND OLIVE EMPANADAS
Preparation time 35 minutes
Cooking time 8-10 minutes
Yield 20 empanadas
These tasty Latin American turnovers are from chef Michael Cordua at Churrascos.
1 pound ground beef
2 large red onions, thinly sliced or coarsely chopped
1 large red bell pepper, julienned or coarsely chopped
4 bay leaves
3 tablespoons beef base, see note
1/2 cup chopped pimiento-stuffed olives
1/4 cup golden raisins
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 package discos de empanadas, thawed, see note
Peanut oil
1. For filling, cook beef, onions, bell peppers and bay leaves in medium saucepan over medium heat until beef is no longer pink and vegetables are soft, about 5 minutes. Add beef base, olives, raisins, cumin and salt. Simmer, stirring occasionally, 20 minutes. Remove from heat; drain completely in colander. Let cool.
2. For empanadas, fill each pastry round with heaping tablespoon beef mixture. Fold pastry over into half-moon shape and crimp edges together tightly.
3. Pour oil to depth of at least 2 inches in large, heavy skillet or Dutch oven; heat to 350 degrees. Fry empanadas, several at a time, without crowding pan, until golden brown on each side, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Note Beef base can be purchased at specialty stores or reduce 1/3 cup beef broth to about 3 tablespoons. Discos de empanadas are pastry rounds available in ethnic markets. Traditional pastry crust, cut into 5-inch rounds, may be substituted.
Nutrition information per empanada
Calories …….. 180 Sodium …… 270 mg Fat …….. 6 g
Carbohydrates .. 22 g Cholesterol .. 18 mg Protein …. 8 g
VEGETABLE AND SHRIMP TEMPURA
Preparation time 20 minutes
Cooking time 2 minutes per batch
Yield 4 servings
From chef Leo San Pedro at Won Ton Club in Chicago.
Peanut oil
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons ice cold water
1 large egg
1 to 11/2 cups all-purpose flour
16 large shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails left on
12 to 16 broccoli florets, slightly cooked
1 sweet potato, peeled, sliced about 1/8 -inch thick
1 onion, sliced into thin rings
1. Pour oil to depth of at least 2 inches in wok or Dutch oven. Heat over medium-high heat to 350 degrees.
2. Combine cold water and egg in small bowl; mix well. Sift 1 cup flour into egg mixture. Mix gently with fork; do not use whisk or overbeat.
3. Dust shrimp and vegetables lightly with remaining flour. Dip 2 to 3 pieces into batter at a time. Fry until golden, not brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Do not crowd pan. Drain. Repeat with remaining shrimp and veggies.
Nutrition information per serving
Calories …….. 260 Sodium ……. 80 mg Fat …….. 9 g
Carbohydrates .. 35 g Cholesterol .. 95 mg Protein … 11 g
HUSH PUPPIES
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 2-3 minutes per batch
Yield: About 4 dozen
Adapted from “The Fearless Frying Cookbook,” by John Martin Taylor.
Peanut oil
2 1/4 cups stone-ground whole-grain cornmeal or yellow cornmeal, plus more if needed
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon each: baking powder, baking soda, salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon red pepper, or to taste
2 cups buttermilk
1 large egg
1 small onion, minced
1. Pour oil to depth of at least 2 inches in Dutch oven. Heat over medium-high heat to 375 degrees.
2. Combine cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, black pepper and red pepper in medium bowl; mix well. Whisk buttermilk and egg together in medium bowl; add to dry ingredients and stir well. Stir in onion. Batter should be thick enough to be spooned (add more cornmeal if needed).
3. Drop batter by spoonfuls into hot oil. Fry hush puppies until golden brown, about 3 minutes; drain on paper towels.
Nutrition information per puppy:
Calories ……. 45 Sodium …… 95 mg Fat ………… 2 g
Cholesterol .. 5 mg Protein ……. 1 g Carbohydrates .. 6 g
SUPERB SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Marinating time: 8 hours or overnight
Cooking time: 20-24 minutes
Yield: 6 servings
This version of the Southern staple is adapted from chef Scott Peacock of Horseradish Grill in Atlanta.
1 cut-up chicken, about 3 pounds
2 quarts (8 cups) cold water
1/2 cup kosher salt
1 quart (4 cups) buttermilk
1 pound lard or 2 cups peanut or vegetable oil
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 pound sliced country ham or smoked bacon
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1. Rinse chicken pieces under cool running water. Combine water and kosher salt in large bowl, stirring until salt is dissolved. Put chicken in salted water; refrigerate 4 hours or overnight.
2. Pour buttermilk into separate large bowl. Remove chicken from water; transfer to buttermilk. Let soak, refrigerated, 4 hours or overnight.
3. Heat lard or oil with butter in large cast-iron or heavy skillet over low heat until butter is melted. Add ham or bacon. Gradually increase heat; skim off any foam that rises to top. Remove ham or bacon when lard or oil and butter are hot but not smoking. The temperature should be about 350 degrees.
4. Mix flour, cornstarch, salt and pepper in pie plate. Remove chicken pieces from buttermilk, letting each drain well; dredge chicken pieces in flour, shaking off excess. Make sure pieces have lightest coating possible.
5. Add chicken in single layer to skillet. Fry in two batches if necessary; do not crowd pan. Fry, skin-side down, uncovered, until deep golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn pieces over to other side. Fry until deep golden brown and cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …….. 595 Sodium ……. 910 mg Fat …….. 34 g
Carbohydrates .. 24 g Cholesterol .. 140 mg Protein …. 44 g
