Many cooks and diners have reservations about duck: It’s too fatty to be healthful. It’s inconvenient to prepare–you have to roast the whole bird and cook it a special way to get rid of all the fat. It tastes too gamey. It can only be prepared in limited ways–you know, duck a l’orange.
But the domesticated White Pekin (also called White Peking) or Long Island duckling, the most readily available variety, is quite delicious. And it’s no longer as heavy on fat; it can be simple and quick to prepare; and you can use it in everything from tacos to barbecues to stir-fries.
Duck producers are eager to let Americans know that duck is a meat for the ’90s.
According to The Duckling Council, a producers’ trade association, Americans ate 4 percent more duckling last year than the year before. That compares to 3.3 percent more turkey and 0.6 percent chicken. This was the first rise in duckling consumption in four years.
Overall consumption is still quite low: People eat an average of 1/3 pound of duck per person per year, as opposed to 50 pounds of chicken.
Today’s leaner duckling is the result of a decade of feeding and breeding programs that have led to meat that contains less fat than an equal portion of pork, beef or chicken, according to breeders.
Most ducklings on the market were fed corn, soybeans and wheat. They are bred to gain weight as muscle, not fat; and raised indoors so they don’t have to put on fat to keep warm. This has resulted in ducks that are a third leaner than they were 10 years ago, says Nora Macon, food service product manager for Maple Leaf Farms in Milford, Ind., a major producer of duckling.
Also, today’s ducks raised for market are processed at six weeks of age so they don’t have time to become tough. And that’s why they are called “duckling”–they are not mature ducks.
But not all chefs are enamored with the new, leaner duck. Take Mick Morfogen, executive chef at Maxaluna in Boca Raton, Fla. “Many of my customers send it back because they think it tastes dry, even when it’s cooked to perfection,” he says.
Clearly, there are tricks to cooking this leaner fowl. But even though it may take a little more skill, it’s actually simpler than it used to be. You no longer have to worry about pricking the skin or rendering the fat before cooking it.
You can’t however, just cook it like chicken, says Scott Swaidner, corporate chef for Maple Leaf Farms. Chicken is a white meat or poultry that is done when its juices run clear. But duck is a water fowl that’s a red meat. Thus, if you cook it until its juices run clear, you’ll overcook it.
Instead, you have to use a thermometer to gauge internal temperature. Some of today’s ducklings–like turkeys–come equipped with pop-up timers to ensure proper cooking.
Duckling is available whole and frozen in many supermarkets; for breasts only you may have to visit a specialty market.
And it’s not exactly a bargain: More than $9 a pound for breasts, about $2 a pound for the whole bird.
When it comes to taste, domestic duckling is a far cry from hunted duck, which tends to be tough and gamey. Swaidner describes domestic duck as tasting “mellow yet meaty.” We found the domestic variety very similar to pork in appearance, flavor and texture.
ROASTED DUCKLING WITH A CRISPY SKIN
Preparation time: 15 minutes
Cooking time: 2-2 3/4 hours
Yield: 3 servings
Adapted from “Sheila Lukins U.S.A. Cookbook.”
1 duckling, 5 to 5 1/2 pounds, excess fat removed
1 orange, quartered
Salt, ground black pepper
1 Granny Smith apple, quartered, cored
8 large sprigs fresh thyme
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Rub duck inside and out with a few orange quarters. Sprinkle with salt and pepper inside and out. Place orange and apple quarters and 4 of the thyme sprigs in cavity.
2. Roast 25 to 30 minutes per pound, about 2 to 2 3/4 hours. Baste with pan juices occasionally. Duckling is done when meat thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh registers 190 degrees.
4. Remove duckling and let rest on platter 15 minutes before carving. Garnish with the remaining thyme sprigs.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …… 510 Fat ………… 25 g Cholesterol .. 310 mg
Sodium ….. 190 mg Carbohydrates .. 16 g Protein …….. 58 g
DUCKLING WITH TUSCAN WHITE BEANS
Preparation time: Overnight plus 25 minutes
Marinating time: 3 hours or overnight
Cooking time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 servings
Adapted from “Italian Grilling,” by Jean Galton.
1/2 pound dried Great Northern beans
3 sprigs fresh rosemary, broken up
3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley
2 tablespoons dry white wine
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 pounds boneless duckling breast, skin, fat removed
12 large fresh sage leaves
4 large cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
3/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup bite-size pieces fresh spinach leaves, washed
1. Soak beans overnight in large bowl in cold water to cover by 3 inches. Combine rosemary, parsley, white wine and 2 tablespoons of the oil in plastic bag. Add duck; seal bag and toss to coat. Refrigerate 3 hours or overnight.
2. Drain beans, rinse under cold water and drain again. Place beans, sage leaves and garlic in medium saucepan; add water to cover by 3 inches. Heat to simmer over medium heat; cook 30 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt and continue simmering until beans are very tender, 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat charcoal or gas grill to medium hot and brush grill rack with oil. Or heat broiler. Remove duckling from marinade; sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and 1/4 teaspoon of the pepper. Grill or broil 3 to 4 minutes on each side for medium rare. Transfer to cutting board; cover and let rest 5 minutes.
4. Drain beans, reserving about 1 tablespoon cooking liquid. Discard sage and garlic. Return beans to saucepan. Add remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Toss to mix. Add reserved cooking liquid and spinach; cook over medium heat, tossing beans and spinach gently until spinach wilts. Cover to keep warm.
5. Thinly slice duck across the grain with sharp knife. Place some beans on each of 4 plates, arrange duck on top.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …… 450 Fat ………… 14 g Cholesterol .. 165 mg
Sodium ….. 555 mg Carbohydrates .. 37 g Protein …….. 45 g
STRAWBERRY-ORANGE DUCKLING SALAD
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: About 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Fresh oranges are great in this, but if you don’t want to go to the bother of cutting them up, use a 26-ounce jar of orange segments, drained. You’ll find these in the produce department of some supermarkets. Recipe is from Maple Leaf Farms, which raises ducklings.
Orange vinaigrette:
1/2 cup orange juice
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 teaspoons raspberry vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/8 teaspoon each: grated orange zest, salt
Ground black pepper
Fruit and duck salad:
1 whole boneless duckling breast, skin, fat removed
2 teaspoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
8 cups mixed greens in bite-size pieces
2 cups halved strawberries
2 cups orange sections
16 walnut halves, optional
1. For dressing, dissolve cornstarch in 2 tablespoons orange juice in small bowl. Add dissolved cornstarch to remaining orange juice in non-reactive saucepan. Heat to a simmer over medium heat, stirring frequently; cook until thickened. Remove from heat; add remaining ingredients. Cool.
2. For salad, brush duckling breast with oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat grill or broiler and cook duckling 4 to 6 minutes per side. Remove from heat, cover with foil and let sit 5 minutes before slicing.
3. Toss greens with strawberries and oranges. Add cooled vinaigrette and toss. Divide among plates. Top each with portion of sliced duckling. Garnish with walnuts, if desired.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …… 270 Fat …………. 7 g Cholesterol .. 140 mg
Sodium ….. 485 mg Carbohydrates .. 22 g Protein …….. 30 g
DUCKLING QUESADILLA
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 10 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
These are overstuffed quesadillas that taste terrific. Expect to eat them with a knife and fork. Recipe developed by Maple Leaf Farms.
4 whole-wheat tortillas (10 to 12 inches in diameter)
2 cups shredded pepper
Jack cheese
1/4 cup, about, chopped cilantro
1 cup julienned roasted red peppers, see note
1 1/2 cups cooked, diced duckling meat
1 cup drained mandarin orange segments
1 cup tomato salsa
1. Heat large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Place a tortilla in skillet. Sprinkle 1/2 cup cheese and 2 teaspoons cilantro over entire tortilla. Place 1/4 cup of the pepper strips, 1/4 of the duckling meat and 1/4 cup of orange segments over half of the tortilla. Let cook flat about 5 minutes. Fold tortilla over to cover filling; cook 2 minutes or until fillings are heated through and tortilla is browned. Remove from pan and keep warm.
2. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Cut each quesadilla into 3 wedges. Serve with salsa on the side.
Note: We used roasted peppers in a jar. But you can roast one yourself: Cut pepper in half; remove seeds. Place cut-side down on baking sheet. Heat broiler; place peppers as close as possible to heat source. Broil 10 minutes or until skin is blistered and charred. Remove from broiler; place in paper or plastic bag. Seal; let cool 20 minutes. Scrape away skin with a knife.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories …… 485 Fat ………… 23 g Cholesterol .. 170 mg
Sodium ….. 710 mg Carbohydrates .. 30 g Protein …….. 42 g
