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If you’re looking for a hearty breakfast or lunch–say, three eggs and a stack of pancakes or a triple-decker BLT–Golden Goodness Cafe is not for you. But if you have a taste for fresh baked muffins, coffeecakes and cookies, or a light sandwich, a visit may be in order.

The “Goodness” of Golden Goodness stands for the alternative and traditional fresh baked items. Most are low-fat and low-calorie but still taste great.

Regulars stop by to grab a muffin and coffee on the way to the train (only a half-block north) or while running errands on Saturday mornings. Laura Fredrickson, the baker who opened the cafe in 1995, is always close by to answer questions. She bakes all the items in the cafe except two, the apple cinnamon rolls (available only on Saturday) and the bagels.

The decor is simple, the place small: five round tables each seat two. Though service is very friendly, we waited quite awhile–the clerk was engaged in a lengthy personal conversation with another customer. Fredrickson finally came forward and took our order.

Muffins ($1.29 to $1.49) are a specialty, usually a minimum of eight varieties. They are large enough to satisfy most cravings. The pumpkin muffin is moist, tender and very flavorful, as is the raspberry cream cheese muffin–with the cream cheese ribboned throughout. Other flavors include blueberry, carrot-nut, mixed berry, peach blueberry cobbler, chocolate chip and apple cinnamon. Another bonus: They are all low fat, with only 3 grams of fat per muffin (except for the mixed berry, which are fat-free).

The apple cinnamon rolls ($1.69 each) are tender, filled with chunks of apple and lots of cinnamon. Though they’re not as gooey and sweet as a traditional cinnamon roll, you’ll get the flavor with a fraction of the fat: Each roll has only 1.8 grams of fat and 470 calories (instead of the 33 grams of fat and 810 calories in a Cinnabon).

Breakfast sandwiches ($1.65 to $1.99) are the only hot item on the menu. Choose a biscuit or bagel and egg, or egg with cheese. Be forewarned that the biscuits are small; you might want to order two or three. Fresh ingredients are used in these sandwiches, but they’re nothing out of the ordinary.

Plain, cinnamon-raisin, wheat and sesame bagels (55 cents; $1.39 with cream cheese) also are available along with coffeecakes ($5.29 to $7.49).

You’ll also find assorted treats such as lemon bars (99 cents per bar) that boast a snappy, tart filling and tender crust. The kolackys (three for $1) aren’t quite as tender. However, they have good flavor.

Additional sweets include pecan diamonds (85 cents), apple slices (99 cents) and Kahlua brownies (85 cents).

The bakery’s house blend coffee (94 cents small; $1.19 large) or flavored ($1.09/$1.29) coffee is flavorful and well rounded, but slightly weak if you’re used to strong, dark-roasted coffee. Other beverages include bottled juices, mineral water and soda (99 cents for each) and hot chocolate ($1.25/$1.75).

Three sandwiches are served at lunch, tuna or egg salad ($2.75) and chicken salad ($2.85) on a bagel or croissant. The lunch special ($3.99) comes with a sandwich, chips and drink.

Cakes can be ordered in sheets or rounds with a variety of fillings.

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Golden Goodness Cafe

(Two forks))

415 N. Ardmore Ave., Villa Park

Hours: 6 a.m.-4 p.m.Mon.-Fri.,8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sat.

Credit cards A, D, M

Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class

3 forks: Better than most

2 forks: Very good fare

1 fork: Middle of the road

Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.