Last season at Squaw Valley, it snowed and snowed the lightest powder. Enough to even make your skis twitch. There was so much superb skiing that we couldn’t get over it. This was the third consecutive year of great skiing.
After we’d skied the slopes, carving them up with our turns, we swooped down the gullies–still fresh snow. The previous year, a total of 833 inches of snow fell (at the 8,200 level) and people skied through the Fourth of July.
Squaw Valley, always famous for outstanding ski terrain, has been transformed into a fabulous, year-round deluxe resort.
In the past few years, the resort has undergone a multimillion dollar make-over. Accessible only by cable car, a stunning new complex includes a new High Camp Bath and Tennis Club ($4.5 million) with an Olympic-size ice skating rink, six tennis courts and three volleyball courts, a lagoon-shaped swimming pool and a new spa, and a bungee jump. All are open spring through fall and located high in the Sierra Nevada mountains at a breathtaking 8,200 feet–at High Camp. The resort offers a year-round playground for skiers and nonskiers of all ages.
Meanwhile, at the base of the valley (6,200 feet) there is a five-star hotel (405 rooms and major convention facilities) called The Resort at Squaw Creek ($135 million), which includes three swimming pools and an 18-hole Robert Trent Jones Jr. golf course. Here, in the winter, two triple chairlifts give access to 230 acres of new ski terrain.
For skiers, six new chairlifts add up to 33 lifts, and a state-of-the-art snowmaking system covers 250 acres of skiing. With the addition of super express chairlifts (a brand-new high speed quad on KT 22), you’ll only wait moments to catch a lift to any one of Squaw’s varied and challenging slopes, and to the longest run–more than 3 miles. Squaw is so confident of the new service that it continues to honor its written promise printed on the skier’s guide: “In the world, only Squaw Valley USA guarantees skiers no waiting in line–or your money back.” (But read the fine print.)
Squaw Valley offers varying levels of challenges. Six mountain peaks cover 4,200 acres of slopes: 45 percent of the slopes are designed for intermediate, 30 percent for experts and 25 percent for beginners.
For intermediates, the most popular slopes are Shirley Lake’s numerous groomed runs. The 3.5-mile Mountain Run’s velvety smooth snow is an ego trip. There are literally dozens of other runs, lovely bowls and also a run designed for intermediates on KT 22 called The Saddle.
If you are an advanced skier, head off for a new and exciting challenge–the Silverado lift, which opened up the bowl beneath the tram at High Camp and added 800 acres of skiing down into Shirley Canyon. Expert skiers also seek out difficult KT 22, where the famous Westface ski slope, one of the steepest runs in the world, is a wall of bumps–a hot-dogger’s paradise. For the intrepid, vast areas are left in their natural state with vertical cliffs, cornices and gullies galore.
If you’re a beginner, you’ll be thrilled to find that the easiest slopes are on top of the mountain. Access here is from the cable car lift at High Camp, so at the same time you’re practicing your turns, you’ll enjoy panoramic vistas of snowy peaks and beautiful Lake Tahoe–just like everyone else. Another way up the mountain is on the six-person gondola to the Gold Coast, where East Broadway is easy fun.
In recent years, eating facilities and lodging have been upgraded. The Squaw Valley Inn, the Olympic Village Inn and the Squaw Valley Lodge have been completely remodeled, and all have conference facilities. Apres-ski, you can also go only 5 miles along the sparkling Truckee River to Lake Tahoe’s restaurants and within less than an hour you’ll be in Reno’s casinos.
On the slopes, another big change is the ski-school format. You can take lessons anytime during the day, or all day if you like. These lessons, for beginners through intermediates, are based on a four-station network with video displays at seven locations. Experts join regular lessons.
At the base of the mountain, Squaw’s new Children’s World is a one-stop center with lessons, lift-tickets, rentals and meals for ages 2 through 12.
Recognizing the joys of snowboarding, special areas away from downhill slopes have been developed. A theme park has two half-pipes and some gnarly bumps. Snowboarders are still welcome everywhere. Squaw offers snowboard rentals, lessons and a snowboard team.
Both High Camp and Gold Coast restaurants have been rebuilt. At lunch, you can bask on the sun terraces. Before starting on your run, stop for a minute to enjoy the stunning views of Lake Tahoe–glimpsed from the top of all six peaks–then swoop through powder and you’re on your way. But before taking off, look to the west, where you can see clear across the Sierra Nevada Mountains. No wonder John Muir called the Sierra Nevada “the range of light.”
As a ski resort, Squaw’s story began in 1948, when Alex Cushing first realized the potential in this hidden valley. His coup, a combination of vision and determination, brought the 1960 Winter Olympic Games here and earned the area an international reputation. Credit goes to Cushing for making the most recent additions and changes that transformed the mountain into a first-class resort.
Throughout the years Squaw has nurtured many ski champions, among them Tamara McKinney, the only American woman to win the World Cup overall (in total, winner of 18 World Cup championships), and she skied in three Olympics for the U.S. Her brother, Steve, once set the world record in speed skiing (124 m.p.h.). Another local is Rick Sylvester, who skied the stunts for Roger Moore in James Bond movies. Joe Marillac, one of France’s heroes, who was active in the French Underground during World War II, is also a local.
Midweek skiing is ideal because the area is a popular weekend destination for San Francisco residents. You’ll ski right onto the lifts and the slopes are all yours. The new Squaw Valley USA is the best! We’ll see you there.
DETAILS ON SQUAW VALLEY
Getting there: Many airlines fly into Reno/Tahoe International Airport, which is just 45 scenic miles from Squaw Valley. It’s best to rent a car, although you can take the shuttle from Reno; reserve 24 hours in advance through Squaw Valley Central Reservations, 800-545-4350. Squaw Valley is 200 miles east of San Francisco and 100 miles east of Sacramento, via all-weather maintained Interstate Highway 80 and Nevada Highway 89.
Where to stay: Call Squaw Valley Central Reservations at 800-545-4350 for condos, inns and the most reasonably priced accommodations, which are homes listed with both Central Reservations and Julee Rosa Vacation Rentals, 800-545-8424; fax 916-583-7944 or e-mail broker@squawusa.com. The Resort at Squaw Creek (800-3-CREEK-3) is about $280 a night; ask about their ski packages. The Squaw Valley Inn (800-323-ROOM) is $170 to $270 a night. The Squaw Valley Lodge (800-992-9920) is $160 to $210 a night. All prices are per room.
The ski season usually begins in mid-November and lasts through Memorial Day. A lift ticket costs $48 a day (less with ski packages) and it includes night skiing and snowboarding, children 12 and under and $5, seniors $24, seniors over 75 ski free.
Activities: Family Fun Park at High Camp has a snowtubing area. Open all day until 9 p.m. Fun in the Sun is a free program for beginners offering first-time skiers (13 years of age and up) lessons and equipment, for one time only and offered Monday-Fridays, not including holidays.
Where to shop: Near the tram building, Squaw Valley Sports Store and Squaw Valley Inn Shop carry an outstanding selection of ski equipment, clothing and accessories. Granite Chief on the main road is also excellent. Rental equipment can be found at the S.V. Rental Shop, S.V. Inn Rental Shop and Granite Chief.
Other information: During the summer, at High Camp, three restaurants are open. Activities include horseback riding, mountain biking, hiking, volleyball, tennis, swimming, ice skating and bungee jumping.
For more information call Squaw Valley USA, 916-583-6985; its 24-hour Sno-Phone, 916-583-6955; see the Web site at www.squaw.com.
