Few among us have flawless skin. That’s why concealer is a mainstay in most makeup bags.
“Concealer is the one product I couldn’t live without,” says makeup artist Bobbi Brown, who never ventures out without an under-eye coverup, even if that is the only makeup she wears.
“Concealer is an instant eye lift,” agrees makeup artist Rosemary Tackbary Redlin.
Most people of all skin tones have bluish tones under their eyes–the result of blood vessels revealed by skin that is thin in this area, she explains. Dark circles can be hereditary and exacerbated by fatigue.
What has created a coverup quandary? the recent explosion of options. From the original one-shade-fits-all camouflage sticks, to concealer/foundation combos in dozens of hues, to custom-blended creams, to pencils to liquids to concealer compacts, the choices are vast and bewildering.
Then there is the application issue. Layer it on? No, says Redlin. Less is more. Small amounts of concealer can minimize, while a heavy application can draw unwanted attention to a problem area.
The bottom line: Be realistic. “It’s best not to focus obsessively on imperfections,” Redlin advises. “It’s better to play up the eyes and the lips than to be obsessed about perfect (skin),” she says.
ROSEMARY REDLIN’S PRESCRIPTION FOR A NATURAL LOOK:
What product to choose
Sticks and creams provide more coverage than liquids. Small wands and pencils can work best for targeting blemishes and broken capillaries. Yellow-based concealers can neutralize blue-toned dark circles under eyes for most skin tones, but don’t dismiss concealer with a pink undertone if it works for you. Foundation can be used as a concealer, but remember that concealer has more pigment than foundation. Select a shade that is one to two shades lighter than your skin tone.
Making dark circles disappear
1. Apply an eye cream to moisturize the skin and plump any wrinkles. One to try: Aveda’s Pure Vital Moisture Eye Creme, $24; 800-328-0849.
2. Use either a small brush (better to reach recesses) or your pinky finger (which warms the product). Dab the concealer on dark spots–generally the under-eye area–nearest the bridge of the nose, in the “corners” of the eyes. Avoid sweeping the product under the eye. Don’t apply concealer to puffy areas, which will make them more pronounced.
3. Blend outward by patting your pinky, feathering your brush (flat side on skin) or dabbing a cosmetic sponge until skin tone is even.
4. Foundation wearers should then pat their makeup over the concealer border to blend with the rest of the face.
5. Finish with a light dusting of powder, using a fluffy brush.
Sending blemishes into hiding
Dabbing a tiny amount of concealer–with your finger or a brush–on red blemishes, scars and broken capillaries will make them visually recede.
What about covering up blemishes in the drying out stage? Redlin’s advice: Forget it. It will just make them more noticeable. Instead, just apply a light dusting of powder.
CASE STUDY: TIFFANI ANDREWS, 31 PUBLIC RELATIONS EXECUTIVE
SKIN TYPE: Fair complexion with combination oily/dry skin.
REDLIN’S Rx: This skin can use almost any concealer provided an eye cream is used first. Tiffani’s under-eye blues are mostly at and below the inner eye, where product was applied and blended out with a sponge.
A GOOD CHOICE: L’Oreal Feel Perfecte Concealer got the job done with sheer coverage.
CONSIDERING YOUR UNDER-COVER OPTIONS
PRODUCT: Cover Girl Replenishing Concealer, $4.44
FEATURES: 3 shades.
BEST FOR: A pink-based family of coverups, Cover Girl is optimal for peaches-and-cream complexions.
PRODUCT: Lancome Palette Pro Complexion Perfecting Kit, $20
FEATURES: 3 correcting colors–yellow, mauve and green–come in one mirrored compact with one of 3–light, medium and dark–concealing creams.
BEST FOR: Lancome’s offering is a labor-intensive option for women with time, interest and considerable skill in makeup application. Blending correction and concealer on the face can be tricky.
PRODUCT: Lancome Face Perfecting Pencils, $15
FEATURES: 5 creamy, soft shades.
BEST FOR: More gentle than they look, these chunky pencils are portable and easy to use.
PRODUCT: Rosemary Redlin Concealer, $17, at Heidi’s Salons, 900 N. Michigan Ave. and Woodfield Mall; or call 888-901-9898.
FEATURES: A stick wand in 4 shades.
BEST FOR: Like pencils, this lipstick-style stick wand is easy to handle and carry. Be careful not to swipe under the eye but dot it on.
PRODUCT: Rosemary Redlin Foundation Sticks, $28
FEATURES: 12 shades with SPF 8.
BEST FOR: A range of colors makes these foundation sticks, which double as concealers, a good option for skin-tone matching.
PRODUCT: Bobbi Brown Essentials Professional Concealer, $22.50
FEATURES: A heavy cream in 4 shades, with vitamins A and E.
BEST FOR: Works on hard-to-cover under-eye circles, scars and sun spots. Not recommended for slight discolorations.
PRODUCT: L’Oreal Feel Perfecte Concealer, $7
FEATURES: Liquid formula in 3 shades, delivered via a sponge-tip wand.
BEST FOR: For light coverage, this liquid makeup goes on smoothly. Dab a little off the sponge onto your hand before applying.
PRODUCT: Estee Lauder Minute Makeup, $27.50
FEATURES: 12 shades of a creamystick with SPF 15, and vitamins E and C.
BEST FOR: Even-toned faces can match their skin shade with this foundation/concealer combo.
