What keeps most people from cooking duck more frequently isn’t that they don’t like it, but that the roasting methods that efficiently rid duck of its thick layer of fat take so much time and a fair amount of attention.
The recipe here, for weeknight duck, takes less than an hour and results in a crisp bird from which nearly all the fat has been rendered.
The key lies in cutting the duck into serving pieces, then removing the large chunks of exposed fat before cooking. The duck is then placed, skin side down, in a covered skillet on top of the stove.
Cooking the duck with a cover renders the remaining fat while tenderizing the bird in what amounts to steaming (the cover also prevents spattering). When the bird is just about done, you uncover the skillet and crisp it on both sides, using the duck’s own fat as a cooking medium.
Served hot or at room temperature, the bird is crisp, tender and far more flavorful than any chicken.
I’ve been cooking duck this way for 25 years, after learning it from “Paula Peck’s Art of Good Cooking,” which was published in 1961.
I have made some changes in Peck’s technique. Her total cooking time is about 1 hour, but I find that 45 minutes is enough. She seasoned her duck with a mixture of soy sauce and sherry. Although I like this, and offer a version of it as a variation, I prefer to toss a few cloves of garlic and sprigs of thyme into the skillet for a flavor more akin to that of duck confit.
If you have never cut up a raw duck, you will be relieved to know that the procedure is identical to that for chicken. As with a chicken, you’ll have plenty of pieces left for the stockpot.
You will also have a cup or more of duck fat. It’s great for cooking, but first cut it into pieces and cook it slowly until the fat has liquefied and the skin bits have become crisp. Drain. Eat the crispy bits. Refrigerate the fat; it will keep for weeks.
PAN-FRIED DUCKLING
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
Cooking time: 45 minutes
1 5- to 6-pound duck
Salt, freshly ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, optional
3 sprigs fresh thyme, optional
1. Cut duck into 6 or 8 serving pieces, reserving wing tips, back and neck for stock. Place duck pieces, skin side down, in 12-inch skillet; sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper. Add garlic and 2 of the thyme sprigs if using; turn heat to medium-high. Cover skillet when duck begins to sizzle; lower heat to medium. Cook 15 minutes.
2. Turn duck; season with salt and pepper. Cover; cook 15 minutes. Uncover; raise heat back to medium-high. Cook duck, turning occasionally, until browned on both sides, about 15 minutes. Strip leaves from remaining thyme sprig; sprinkle over duck.
Variation: Rub duck with salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon each soy sauce and dry sherry before placing in pan. When done, garnish with minced fresh ginger or minced cilantro leaves.
Nutrition information per serving (without skin):
Calories …… 270 Fat ……….. 15 g Cholesterol .. 120 mg
Sodium …… 85 mg Carbohydrates .. 0 g Protein …….. 32 g
