Supermarkets caught on early to the meals-to-go concept. All those people coming in for coleslaw and sliced bologna, after all, would likely be interested in some hot prepared soup, a baked potato and meat loaf to take out as well.
Now every food market has a variety of prepared dishes from cold salads to stuffed roast chicken breasts. The sophistication can range from comfort-style macaroni and cheese to more exotic Asian noodles. Market Place in Lincoln Park, one of two Chicago stores (the other on Illinois Street near Navy Pier) that sell groceries, hasnt missed out on the chance to supply a quick dinner.
We checked out the Lakeview location, assuming it would offer more in the way of takeout meals in that neighborhood of working couples and families. And this Market Place does have a wide selection of items. But perhaps we chose poorly.
To start on a positive note, the low-fat chicken salad ($7.99 per pound) is quite good-big chunks of chicken, a nice tarragon flavor, and a creamy, not wet, dressing. For our tasters, this was as good as a full-fat version and worth trying again.
Another healthful choice is the wheatberry salad ($5.99 per pound). The grains were just the tiniest bit undercooked–a smidge too crunchy–but the vinaigrette-dressed salad on the whole is fine and nicely textured with pine nuts and raisins. The flavor is mild and would go well as a side dish with some roasted poultry or salmon.
Other choices disappointed. Egg salad ($4.99 per pound) is a mound of sliced egg whites but no discernible yolks-unless they go into the strangely yellow, goopy dressing.
Hot food didn’t fare too well either. The veggie burrito ($6.99) was fine with its whole-wheat wrap and pilaf, but it needs to be heated to be worth eating. That means microwaving the burrito on a separate serving plate, or scraping the accompanying sour cream out of the packaging before heating.
Cheese manicotti ($5.99 per serving), overcooked and flavorless, is not worth bothering with, when better fresh pastas are over in the refrigerated foods section.
Other main courses varied in quality. Roast beef ($7.99 per serving) is cooked to dryness, but the roasted carrots and beef jus are well seasoned.
But we hated the chicken Kiev with lemon couscous and asparagus ($7.99 per serving). Someone must have run out of couscous and replaced it with Stovetop, because what we had was a mushy bread stuffing. The elegant touch is a scattering of dried fruit mixed in. The chicken was terrible; the fried coating does not reheat well in the microwave, and when sliced it oozes a filling of greasy butter and what looks suspiciously like Velveeta.
So maybe there’s a lesson for for diners getting grocery store takeout: Keep it simple. Cold salads that aren’t swimming in dressing make a good, healthful bet. Attempts at “gourmet” meals are probably best left to you or a restaurant. Certainly there are enough good prepared fixings in most stores to make a fast meal.
Service is counter-style and pleasant. If you need something for dessert, try some of the baked items, such as the chocolate-chip cookies from a local bakery, sold in the same section as the prepared foods.
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Market Place
(One fork)
521 W. Diversey Pkwy.
773-348-5721
Hours: 7-11 p.m. daily
Credit cards: M,V.
Personal checks accepted ($5 minimum)
Ratings: 4 forks: Top of the class
3 forks: Better than most
2 forks: Very good fare
1 fork: Middle of the road
Reviews are based on anonymous visits by Tribune staff members. The meals are paid for by the Tribune.
