If a prophet is without honor in his own country, sometimes a pig is too. Or at least a ham.
During the decade-long craze for all foods Italian, Americans have come to appreciate the many virtues of prosciutto and have learned to handle it with a certain amount of respect.
But when it comes to America’s own dry-cured, aged country hams, a curious kind of culinary inversion seems to prevail. The same knowledgeable cooks who prize the rich, complex flavors of prosciutto tend to think of its American cousins as if they were watery canned hams, fit only for boiling or baking and eating in thick slices.
This lack of gustatory respect is quite unwarranted, since the best American hams are produced with the same delicate care, using the same procedures as the other great dry-cured hams of the world: the Yunan hams of China, the serranos of Spain and the Westphalian hams of Germany, in addition to prosciutto.
There is, however, one American ham that has been considered worthy company to these others: the Smithfield ham of Virginia. Part of this ham’s appeal is its pedigree, which is enforced by a 1926 Virginia law that makes it illegal to call a ham “genuine Smithfield” unless it has been dry-cured, then aged for a minimum of 180 days within the Tidewater town of Smithfield. Country hams from elsewhere in the South are cured in the same way but may not necessarily be aged as long.
Even Smithfield fans, though, shy away from eating it uncooked, as they would prosciutto. Over the years we have argued–to any ham devotee who would listen–that the Smithfield, along with its lesser-known compatriots from Virginia, Tennessee and Kentucky, is a world-class ham fully capable of being used as its more revered international compatriots are: added uncooked to dishes as a kind of flavoring agent, rather than served in slabs as a hearty entree. Used this way, Smithfield ham can add layers of rich, deep, complex flavor to a whole range of dishes.
Curiously, the fine aged hams of the American South are most appreciated by diners abroad and in immigrant communities in the United States whose culinary heritage includes other long-aged ham.
Larry Santure, vice president of V.W. Joyner & Co. (800-628-2242), a major ham producer in Smithfield, says many of the company’s finest hams are shipped to Asian restaurants in California as a substitute for Yunan hams, or flown to Europe bearing the Spanish label “tipo serrano,” that is, serrano style.
Samuel W. Edwards III, president of S. Wallace Edwards & Sons (800-222-4267) in Surry, Va., which sells Smithfield-style country hams aged for 180 days or more, said that his longest-aged hams are often shipped to New England, where Portuguese-Americans eat them uncooked, as they would the presuntos of their native country.
“Really, the way to get the full, intense flavor of these longer aged hams is to eat them uncooked,” Edwards said.
To create any of these hams, the hind quarter (leg and shank) of a hog is dry-cured in a salt mixture, rather than wet-cured in a salt brine. The brine is quicker but results in blunter flavors. The hams may then be smoked, usually over hickory. They are then air-dried for at least six months, a process crucial to the final flavor.
As the cure penetrates during the long drying, the meat becomes firmer and denser. This concentrates the flavor, deepening it and adding complexity.
The salt concentration in the meat also increases during aging, preventing the growth of bacteria and parasites. As a result, the cured ham is ready to eat and does not have to be refrigerated if kept in a cool, dry, dark place.
A 15-pound Smithfield-style ham will cost $50 to $60.
The flavors of these artisanal hams used to be attributed to the hog’s particular diets: peanuts for Smithfield hams, beechnuts for prosciutto, and so on. Today most hogs are fed a uniform diet designed to produce leaner animals in a hurry. But as with choice wines or cheeses, the particular flavors of top-quality hams are still shaped by the skill of the maker and the characteristics of the locale.
“In addition to the curing mixture, the smoking time and material, and the aging time, you also have natural bacteria and flora in each location that influence taste,” said Edwards, the curemaster for his family company.
This means that the curemaster’s “individual sense of touch, smell, taste and sight is crucial,” he said.
When substituting Smithfield or other aged country hams for prosciutto, keep in mind that the American hams are slightly denser, which makes them more difficult to slice very thin. If presentation is important, a butcher can slice the ham for you. In other cases, julienned ham works fine and is less bother.
And remember that these hams are quite salty, so add less salt to the recipe than you ordinarily might.
PAN-SEARED PORTOBELLOS AND FIGS WITH COUNTRY HAM ON GREENS
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: About 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
4 large portobello mushrooms, cleaned, stems removed
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt, freshly cracked black pepper to taste
4 fresh figs, halved
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 bunch mustard greens or other spicy greens, washed, stems removed
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
8 thin slices or 1/4 cup diced
Smithfield or other dry-cured, aged country ham
1. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place large oven-proof skillet over medium-high heat 2 minutes. Meanwhile, rub mushrooms with vegetable oil; sprinkle with salt and pepper.
2. Cook mushrooms, moving frequently, until seared, about 2 minutes a side. Place pan in oven 3 minutes or until mushrooms appear moist all the way through, rather than dry at the center. Remove mushrooms from pan and set aside.
3. Place figs, cut side down, in the same pan over medium-high heat; cook until seared, about 2 minutes a side. Remove; set aside.
4. Heat olive oil in same pan over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add garlic; cook, stirring, about 5 seconds. Immediately add greens, vinegar and sugar; toss vigorously with tongs until greens wilt, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; season with salt and pepper.
5. Place greens on platter or serving plates. Top with mushroom caps (either whole or sliced), figs and ham.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ………. 260 Fat ………… 20 g Cholesterol .. 5 mg
Sodium ……… 100 mg Carbohydrates .. 20 g Protein ……. 6 g
PASTA WITH COUNTRY HAM, SEARED EGGPLANT AND PEPPERS
Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: About 15 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 eggplant, diced small
1 red onion, peeled, halved thinly sliced
1/2 each, seeded, thinly sliced: green bell pepper, red bell pepper
2 tablespoons minced garlic
1 to 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste
12 ounces penne or other tubular dried pasta
1/2 pound Smithfield or other dry-cured, aged country ham, julienned
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup chopped mixed herbs, any combination of parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme or basil
1. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over high heat until hot but not smoking. Add eggplant; stir until well browned and a bit softened, about 4 minutes. Add onion and bell peppers. Reduce heat to medium high; stir frequently until onions soften, about 4 minutes. Add garlic and pepper flakes; cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute. Remove from heat; season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
2. Meanwhile, heat 1 1/2 quarts salted water in large pot to rolling boil. Add pasta; return water to boil. Cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until pasta is tender but not mushy. Drain; place in large bowl.
3. Add eggplant mixture and ham to pasta. Add lemon juice, olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper to taste. Toss well.
Nutrition information per serving:
Calories ……… 700 Fat ………… 35 g Cholesterol .. 40 mg
Sodium …….. 720 mg Carbohydrates .. 75 g Protein ……. 20 g
