Why didn’t we think of this before? Considering how much all of the Good Eating staff loves chocolate, it was just the right indulgence to have internationally known chocolate-maker Bernard Callebaut visit the test kitchen and personally craft a dozen or so little bonbons.
If only we could get him to understand that he has to come back every day.
Failing that, it was interesting to learn how to best make chocolate candies ourselves. Callebaut is the Calgary-based head of the retail chocolate candy stores Bernard C.–the Chicago outpost is in Lake Forest. He is part of the Belgian family of Callebauts, who are noted for their fine cooking and baking chocolate.
The confectioner brought his expertise to the Tribune for a short course on candymaking and what he calls “choc-aerobics,” the few deft moves needed to handle chocolate properly.
“Anyone can do this at home, but it’s important to follow the steps,” he says.
The brown stuff can be temperamental. It’s not a single ingredient, but rather a composition of cocoa butter and liquor; sugar; and sometimes milk solids. Too much heat when melting, or the introduction of a splash of water can ruin the texture of chocolate.
If the hard-core enthusiasts out there want to make their own candy this Easter, or get in some practice for other chocolate-rich holidays, here are some tips from a master.
– The kitchen must be a moderate temperature, between 65 and 70 degrees. If the atmosphere is too cool, chocolate thickens too quickly. If the room is too warm, it won’t harden properly.
– Pay attention to the label. Cocoa butter content varies among brands. The more expensive chocolate has up to 35 percent, while less expensive names supplement the cocoa butter with hydrogenated oils. Cocoa butter helps chocolate melt smoothly and easily; hydrogenated fat gives a thicker texture.
– Melt chocolate by placing it in the top of a double boiler or in a bowl over a pan of water that has been brought to a boil; turn off heat under pan before placing bowl of chocolate over water. . “Never melt chocolate over direct heat,” Callebaut says. “A microwave works, but be careful, because chocolate burns very quickly.”
– Don’t let water from a double boiler splash into melting chocolate. Just a small amount will cause the chocolate to “seize” into a dull, clumpy mess.
– Melted chocolate should be allowed to cool to about 87 degrees on an instant-read thermometer before using, to stabilize and keep the cocoa butter from separating. To quickly “temper” chocolate, pour melted chocolate onto a clean marble, metal or granite surface or a large cutting board. With a spatula, stir the chocolate continuously to let it cool. Form into candies by hand or in chocolate molds.
– Chocolate molds should never be cold when you’re about to use them or the chocolate will have a dull finish. Warm, don’t heat, molds, if needed, with a hair dryer or over a gas burner.
EASY CHOCOLATE ALMOND TRUFFLES
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 5 minutes
Cooling time: 90 minutes
Yield: 30 truffles
Adapted from “Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook”
12 ounces milk chocolate
1/3 cup whipping cream
1/4 teaspoon almond extract, optional
1/3 cup toasted ground almonds
1/2 cup semi-sweet chocolate pieces, melted
1. Combine milk chocolate and cream in top of double boiler; cook over simmering water, stirring frequently, until chocolate melts, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat; cool slightly. Stir in almond extract, if using. Beat chocolate in bowl of electric mixer until smooth. Refrigerate 1 hour.
2. Shape chocolate into 3/4-inch balls. Roll in ground almonds. Place on baking sheet lined with wax paper; freeze 30 minutes.
3. Decoratively drizzle melted semi-sweet chocolate over truffles. Store in tightly covered container in refrigerator.
Nutrition information per truffle:
Calories ……… 85 Fat …………. 6 g Cholesterol ….. 6 mg
Sodium ……… 9 mg Carbohydrates .. 10 g Protein ………. 1 g
