It’s hard to imagine five minutes better spent in the kitchen than making vinaigrette, the closest thing to an all-purpose sauce. At its most basic, vinaigrette is acid and oil, salt and pepper, plus additional flavors as desired.
But behind this apparent simplicity is a web of questions. Which acid? Which oil? What else should be added? How to combine it all?
Although the answers are subjective, a more or less standard vinaigrette has evolved. It is simple, flavorful and, if made in a blender, so stable that it can be prepared hours ahead. And it’s so flexible that it can be augmented in countless ways. It can find a place on anything from a simple green salad to cold meat, vegetables or fish dishes, as well as anything broiled or grilled, whether hot or at room temperature.
My standard vinaigrette begins, not surprisingly, with extra-virgin olive oil. To vary the flavor, I sometimes use walnut or hazelnut oil or a neutral oil like grape-seed or canola.
It continues with good wine vinegar, preferably Champagne vinegar, or with the extra-mild Asian rice vinegar. (Balsamic and sherry vinegars are too dominant for many uses.) Lemon juice is a fine substitute, but because it is less acidic than most vinegars, you will need more of it.
Formula for success
The standard ratio is three parts oil to one part vinegar, but because the vinegars I use are mild, and extra-virgin olive oil is so strong, I usually wind up at about two parts oil to one part vinegar. Somewhere in that range you will find a home for your own taste: Start by using a ratio of 3-to-1, and sample, adding more vinegar until you are happy. (You may even prefer more vinegar than olive oil; there is nothing wrong with that.)
I almost invariably add two other ingredients: shallots and Dijon mustard. Shallots are to vinaigrette as garlic is to pesto–the miracle ingredient that ties everything together. There is almost no vinaigrette that is not improved by their addition. Dijon mustard, while not as essential, adds creaminess while fortifying and stabilizing the emulsion.
The ingredients may be combined with a spoon, a fork, a whisk or a blender. The hand tools give you an unconvincing emulsion that must be used immediately or rewhisked if it is refrigerated.
Blenders produce vinaigrettes that resemble thin mayonnaise in color and thickness–without using egg. They also dispose of the job of mincing the shallot; just peel, chop and dump it into the container at the last minute.
There are more uses for vinaigrette than anyone could possibly count, but among the best is with a plain broiled lobster. In warmer weather, this dish is even better when served cold.
Getting creative
You can integrate almost anything that appeals to you into a vinaigrette. Here are some easy ideas, many of which may be combined:
Fresh or dried herbs (fresh by the teaspoon or tablespoon; dried by the pinch).
Minced fresh garlic or ginger to taste.
Soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, meat or vegetable stock or other liquid seasonings (as much as 1 tablespoon).
Whole-grain mustards or dry mustard to taste.
Honey or other sweeteners to taste.
Cayenne or crushed red-pepper flakes, minced fresh chilies, or grated or prepared horseradish, to taste.
Freshly grated Parmesan or other hard cheese, or crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese (at least 2 tablespoons).
Capers or minced pickles, preferably cornichons (at least 2 tablespoons).
Sour cream, yogurt or pureed soft tofu (about 2 tablespoons).
Ground spices like curry, five-spice powder or nutmeg, in very small quantities.
BASIC VINAIGRETTE
Preparation time: 5 minutes
Yield: About 3/4 cup
This vinaigrette is best made fresh but will keep a few days refrigerated; bring it back to room temperature and whisk briefly before using.
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons wine vinegar
Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 large shallot, peeled, cut into chunks
1. Combine oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and mustard in blender; process until creamy emulsion forms, about 30 seconds. Taste; add more vinegar a teaspoon or two at a time, to taste.
2. Add shallot. Pulse until shallot is minced. Taste, adjust seasoning and serve.
Nutrition information per tablespoon:
Calories …………. 80 Fat ………… 9 g Saturated fat .. 0 g
% calories from fat .. 99 Cholesterol … 0 mg Sodium …….. 5 mg
Carbohydrates ….. 0.4 g Protein …….. 0 g Fiber ………. 0 g
