Q–One of the clapboards on the outside of my house was badly cracked when something heavy fell against it. Is there a way I can replace this damaged section without having to remove the entire length of board?
A–Yes, if you can obtain a piece of matching clapboard siding to install in place of the damaged section.
Start by driving one or two tapered wedges under the damaged section of clapboard to pry it up slightly. Then slide a hacksaw blade up under the siding to cut off the nails holding that damaged section in place. Next, make two vertical cuts–one on each side of the damaged area–using a backsaw (or a hacksaw blade holder that permits cutting flush against the surface). This will enable you to pull out the damaged section.
Then you can nail in a new piece of the matching clapboard. Seal the seams or joints with caulking compound after applying the first coat of paint.
Q–I own a one-story frame house that has a very damp, musty smell in it all the time. There is a 2-foot-high crawl space with a dirt floor under the house, and the concrete block foundation wall has vents in it.
There once was a vapor barrier on this dirt floor, but it was removed after a flooding rain. I am considering installing a vapor barrier under the wood floor joists, hoping this will help get rid of the musty smell. What do you suggest?
A–The first thing you should do is cover the bare soil in the crawl space with a heavy plastic vapor barrier. Seams should be overlapped 6 inches, and the plastic should lap up onto the block walls by about the same amount.
Wait for a dry spell to make sure the soil in the crawl space is dry before covering it, then use fans to thoroughly air out the crawl space. It could be that more vents are also required; you need at least 1 square foot of free opening for every 600 square feet of covered floor area.
If the vents are screened or louvered, then the area of vent opening should be doubled.
Q–There is a leak in one wall of my upstairs bedroom that shows up every time it rains. There is a chimney inside this wall, so we had the flashing around the chimney replaced and had the chimney topped with a cap. Nothing has solved the problem. Can you suggest anything?
A–It sounds as though the flashing around the chimney was not properly repaired or replaced where needed.
Make sure the flashing goes into the joint between the first or second course of bricks, and make sure the flashing along the roof line extends well below the roofing material. It is entirely possible that this was never done properly in the first place and the repairs made did not correct the original faults.
Q–The metal railing on my concrete front steps has rusted, leaving long rust stains on the cement. What can I use to remove this rust and prevent this from happening again?
A–Complete removal of the rust stains may be difficult, but you should be able to at least lighten them considerably–and possibly remove some of them–by using a commercial rust remover (sold in hardware stores).
Apply liberally according to directions on the package, then repeat several times if it seems to help.
Stains that persist can be lightened still more by bleaching with oxalic acid, also sold in hardware stores.
To lessen further rusting, the railings should first be cleaned. Next, scrape off all loose rust and apply a coat of rust converter to the metal, followed by a rust-inhibiting metal primer. Finish with a rust-resistant outside enamel.
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Have a question about home repair problems? Write to Bernard Gladstone in care of Your Place, Chicago Tribune, 435 N. Michigan Ave., Chicago, Ill. 60611. Questions of general interest will be answered in future columns. Sorry, letters cannot be answered personally.
