Narrow silhouettes in fashion call for discreet foundations that won’t line, bulge or otherwise reveal what’s meant to be concealed. With clingy clothes such as jersey dresses, Lycra leggings and bias-cut silk skirts the order of the day, pairing outerwear with the correct underwear has become a quasi-science.
“Smooth foundations should give you a confident feeling,” said Desirine James, a veteran lingerie sales associate at Marshall Field’s.
Thong or G-string panties are the most invisible choice in bottoms. But the simple strip of fabric in the rear creates aesthetic as well as comfort problems for some women.
They’re not going to feel like other underwear because “they’re missing so many parts,” James said. “But they really work. They’re great under something fitted.”
And thong underwear is not just for lingerie models-“maybe once upon a time it was, but a lot of older ladies are into thongs,” she said.
There’s a panty for every personality. Making sense of myriad choices, James offered these tips on dressing the bottom line:
Thongs: Great under fitted clothing or anything white or cream-colored, thongs won’t leave a line.
Briefs: These are the most versatile choice, even if they’re “not so pretty.” Briefs hit at the leg joint, which leaves no line and provides full rear coverage.
French cut: Cut high on the leg, French-cut briefs won’t ride up but they will create a visible line under fitted clothing. They’re great with jeans.
Bikini: Dropping the waistband to the hip, bikinis are best worn with loose clothing since they will show beneath anything fitted.
Tap pants: Loose, silky shorts, tap pants work best under loose, rather than fitted, suits. They can work as an alternative to a slip with short skirts.
Shapers: Briefs with a panel to flatten the stomach, shapers update the cumbersome girdle and create a svelte line under clothes.
Underwear fabric can create an unwanted fuss. Bear in mind:
Lace is pretty but will show under silks, knits and even narrow-fit cotton T-shirts.
– Nylon looks smooth under all clothes.
– Cotton, like Lycra, won’t show under clothing but is slightly bulkier.
– Microfibers, usually nylon and Lycra blends, are both smooth and strong, providing some shape control.
TOPPING IT OFF
– Camisoles – as underwear rather than outerwear – are a good choice under anything clingy or light-colored. Small-breasted women can wear them solo, including spaghetti-strap styles. The bigger-busted should look for a wide shoulder strap to cover the bra beneath.
– Although they serve the same purpose as camisoles, tank T’s-in cotton or microfiber-have a narrower fit, a good choice under slim silhouettes.
– A seamless bra is the best option under silks, knits and T-shirts. Small busts will gain contouring with light padding.
– Teddies are primarily playthings. A one-piece that takes the place of bra and pants, a teddy offers little control.
– Bustiers give evening gowns some structure and are often worn as outerwear under an evening jacket.
– Support in a bra starts with an underwire. Remember the more the fabric stretches the less it holds. For security, seek nylon.
CHICAGO UNDERCOVER
Women fill in the blanks about thongs
Is there a comfortable thong? Can you get coverage and still avoid VPL (visible panty line) with a thong? To answer these questions, we assembled a panel of four Chicago women to test-drive thongs. They are Debbie, 40, a real estate broker; Kris, 29, a public relations executive; Emily, 35, a corporate communications specialist; and Mia, 26, a museum exhibits coordinator.
Calvin Klein
$14
Tactel microfiber, a nylon and Lycra blend
“Looked cool and sleek.” “Didn’t dig in the back.”
“Crotch was too narrow.”
Great fabric but flawed design.
Ralph Lauren
$8
Cotton
“Fairly comfortable.” “Did not creep in the back.”
“Elastic waistband is a little wide.” “Too masculine looking.”
Thumbs-up for comfort, but men’s styling drew some negatives.
Invisibles by St. Eve
$5
Cotton
“Loved the cotton. Very comfortable.” “Loved the price.” “Very sporty.”
“Felt like dental floss.”
Raves – and a few rants – but a good choice for the price.
Honors Intimates, Target
$9.99 for a three-pack
95% cotton, 5% spandex
“Not bad for inexpensive underwear.” “Pretty to look at.”
“A little high-waisted.” “Cotton pique fabric is too thick.” “I could feel the string bunching.”
A fair budget choice. Look for a thinner cotton.
Warner’s The Naked Truth
$8
83% nylon, 17% spandex
“Very pretty, very comfortable.” “Didn’t move around.” “Did not tug or creep.” “Material was smooth under clothes.”
NONE
Raves for invisibility and comfort.
