It might come as a surprise for the casual collector with a jumble of old earrings, necklaces and bracelets in a box somewhere in the house, but some pieces of costume jewelry may actually be more valuable than fine jewelry.
The valuable costume jewelry isn’t the tacky stuff you find on the drugstore counter, but rather the well-made vintage jewelry worn by the likes of actresses Joan Crawford and Ava Gardner in their 1940s-era glamor publicity photos.
“The thing that people need to understand about costume jewelry is that it is just as much a piece of art as something made of gold,” says jewelry designer and milliner Loreta Corsetti, who sells her work at Art Effect in Chicago.
That’s not to say that gold trinkets aren’t collectible. They are, but costume jewelry, new and old, often has a workmanship and beauty all its own that can’t be readily duplicated.
Take, for example, plastic. Who would think that a plastic bracelet could be worth more than some of a jeweler’s finest gems? But it’s true. Bakelite jewelry, which is made out of a now unavailable plastic, is highly collectible. You’re not going to find this stuff in your little sister’s Barbie doll jewelry box. In fact, you might need to get out the plastic in your wallet to pay for Bakelite plastic. Prices begin at $75 and reach $1,000 at specialty boutiques, depending on the rarity of the piece.
What’s the appeal of Bakelite? “It has a context, a smell,” explains Bill Semmens, owner of the Costume Jewelry Repair House in Chicago. “It’s everything all by itself.”
Television anchorwoman Linda Yu and former Gov. James Thompson and his wife, Jayne, are among the local celebrities who have bought costume jewelry at Semmens’ shop.
“They’re trying to make a statement,” explains Semmens. “They’ll wear it as fashion pieces to black-tie events.”
But don’t despair if you don’t have the money to buy these pieces. The vintage costume jewelry look is as close as your jewelry box. You might have a valuable piece of jewelry lurking there. Almost everyone has a few costume pieces from their mother or grandmother that are actually valuable, jewelry experts say.
If the pin of your dreams is missing a faux pearl or two, that’s OK; it can be easily repaired. You can take it to a shop where jewelry repairs range from a few dollars to a few hundred, depending on the time and work involved.
Sometimes it takes the jeweler a few weeks to find a particularly rare vintage gem. When you do get your jewel repaired, find out whether the work is done in house or sent out. Work that’s sent out can be more expensive. Jewelers can provide you with an estimate. Finally, ask to see gems that the jeweler has fixed.
For some people, the repair is worth it, no matter the cost. “It’s not unusual for people to put $300 into an item that’s been in the family for years,” Semmens says. “There’s a lot of sentimental value attached to it.”
But if you don’t own any vintage jewelry, you can buy it at thrift shops and yard sales, which can be a cheaper source than your estate jewelry store or antique market.
But it helps to educate yourself before you shop. Read books on the subject. Visit Web sites such as Costume Jewelry Collecting at the Mining Co. (http://costumejewels.miningco.com). That site includes chat rooms and links to related sites.
Also realize that costume jewelry generally refers to pieces that are mass-produced and do not include semiprecious materials. (Silver is one major exception.) Most stores arrange jewelry into three categories: costume (using imitation materials), fashion (semiprecious materials) and fine (precious materials).
Costume jewelry isn’t necessarily cheap. Vintage pieces tend to be expensive because fewer were made and they’re of better quality than the costume jewels made now.
With the new jewels, one piece might resemble another, but the quality will vary. An imitation pearl necklace might sell for $15 at a drugstore, but the same thing made by designer Carolee will set you back $40 at Neiman-Marcus.
But jewelry experts say you’re better off buying the more expensive costume jewelry because it will last longer. “In 15 years, the Carolee is going to look better than the $15 one,” explains Corsetti.
Most expensive jewels will be well-made and feel more substantial. In both vintage and new, look for the designer’s name on the back or an identifying tag. But remember some designer pieces are unsigned but can be just as valuable. Designer names that carry weight include Miriam Haskell, Ciner, Trifari, Butler & Wilson, Chanel, Ciro, Kenneth Jay Lane, Yves St. Laurent, Eisenberg and Elsa Schiaparelli.
Avoid flimsy pieces. If you purchase expensive jewelry, ask if the maker will take the piece back if it needs repairs.
But most importantly, buy what you like and can use. Do that and you’ll have an instant conversation piece. Just ask Oak Park milliner Kate Burch, who owns a slew of costume jewels, including a 1920s sparkling marcasite pin. “When I wear that, people always ask, `What is it?’ ” she says. “It looks so old.”
Also think about how much wear you can get out of your new purchase. “It’s like any purchase,” says Dennis Brozynski, the fashion design coordinator at Columbia College in Chicago. “In most cases, you look for something to enhance what you already have.”
When you do wear your new earrings or necklace, don’t put either on until you’ve finished spritzing your perfume or hair spray. These products can damage some beads and stones.
Take care of what you buy. Don’t just put it into the jumble of jewelry you already own. “Keep it organized. Keep it safe and clean,” says Brozynski.
Don’t store your sterling silver in cotton; it will tarnish faster. And most importantly, keep your new jewelry away from water, which will cause stones to fall out and metal to rust, says Semmens. “Moisture is the worst enemy,” he adds.
