In the heyday of “continental” cuisine in the 1950s and ’60s, before the beguiling creations of nouvelle cuisine chefs turned our heads, hotel and ocean-liner menus often had an Italian accent (as did the tuxedo-clad maitre d’ even if he introduced himself as “Pierre”). While beef, especially filet mignon, had a prime place among the selections offered in those flambee-fueled times, the real delicacy was veal. Maitres d’ loved carving a veal roast at tableside or garnishing a veal chop with vegetables tableside. Chefs loved cooking veal sweetbreads, kidneys and brains or the silken stew called blanquette de veau.
But the favorite dish from the veal recipe repertoire was scaloppine of veal: Extra-thin slices of this pale meat are cut from the leg and pounded until 1/4- or even 1/8-inch thick. Sometimes the meat is dredged in seasoned flour or bread crumbs and sometimes not. It then is cooked over a brisk flame for only a few minutes and served with an endless variety of sauces or garnishes.
One of the recipes that follows calls for a coating of bread crumbs and flour. The other uses flour only. Egg is the binder that helps the coating adhere to the meat.
The “secrets” of cooking scaloppine are these: Let the coated meat rest for at least 10 minutes before cooking it. Be sure the cooking fat is very hot before adding the meat (don’t use butter only, it will burn; a combination of 2/3 unsalted butter and 1/3 vegetable oil will work better). Turn the meat only once and blot the cooked meat on paper towels to remove excess fat.
While veal is expensive, a pound of the boneless meat will feed four and it makes a light presentation that is ideal for a spring or summer dinner for company. Serve with a green vegetable such as zucchini, cut in chunks and sauteed, and a light red wine such as Valpolicella.
Note: Veal scaloppine is best prepared the day the meat is purchased. Usually, the butcher will slice and pound the veal to order, if it is not on display in the case. Should you wish to perform the pounding ritual yourself, place each slice between two sheets of plastic wrap and use a meat pounder or the side of a cleaver.
VEAL SCALOPPINE WITH FRESH TOMATO RELISH
Two or four servings
1 ripe tomato (about 8 ounces), seeded and chopped
1 tablespoon capers, drained and chopped unless small
4 ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cubed
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large eggs
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup dry bread crumbs
1 pound veal scallops (4 slices), patted dry
2 teaspoons unsalted butter
1. Combine chopped tomato, capers, mozzarella, 1 tablespoon olive oil, balsamic vinegar, pepper and salt in a small bowl. Stir well and set aside.
2. Break the eggs into a soup plate or shallow bowl and beat them until yolks and whites are combined. Pour the flour into another plate or bowl and season generously with additional salt and pepper. Pour the bread crumbs into a third plate or bowl.
3. If the scallops are not about 1/8-inch thick, pound each piece between sheets of plastic wrap. One by one, coat the scallops with flour, then with egg, then with bread crumbs. Place on a baking sheet side by side, not atop one another, until needed.
4. Select one or two skillets as needed so that the scallops may be cooked in a single layer. Place remaining oil and butter in the pan (or divide them between the 2 pans) and warm over medium-high heat until the butter stops bubbling. Immediately add the scallops and cook until well browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn and season the cooked side with salt and pepper. Cook until second side is brown, an additional 1 to 2 minutes.
5. Blot scallops with paper towels to remove excess oil. Transfer to plates, top with tomato relish and serve with sauted zucchini or a tossed salad.
VEAL SCALOPPINE WITH LEMON AND BUTTER
Two or four servings
2 large eggs
1 cup all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 pound veal scallops (4 slices), patted dry
2 tablespoons oil
2 teaspoons butter
2/3 cup chicken broth
3 tablespoons dry vermouth
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1. Break the eggs into a soup plate or shallow bowl and beat them until the yolks and whites are combined. Pour the flour into another plate or bowl and season generously with salt and pepper.
2. If not done by the butcher, pound each scallop between sheets of plastic wrap until 1/8-inch thick. One by one, coat the scallops with egg, then with the flour. Place on a baking sheet side by side (not atop one another) until needed.
3. Select one or two skillets as needed so that the scallops may be cooked in a single layer. Place oil and butter in the pan (or divide them between the 2 pans) and warm over medium-high heat until the butter stops bubbling. Immediately add the scallops and cook until well browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Turn and season the cooked side with salt and pepper. Cook until second side is brown, an additional 1 to 2 minutes.
4. Line the baking sheet with paper towels. Transfer the cooked veal slices to the sheet. Blot the top with more paper towels to remove excess oil and place the sheet in a warming oven.
5. Add the broth, vermouth and lemon juice to one of the pans. Bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to deglaze it. Boil for 1 minute, pour through a strainer into a sauce boat and season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.
6. Transfer the scallops to warm serving plates and pour the sauce over them. Serve at once with orzo or rice.
